A snapshot of Mexican coffee production

Mexican coffee production is widespread, with more than 300,000 mostly small growers dedicated to its cultivation across 15 of Mexico’s 32 states, and despite the country being the 10th largest coffee producer in the world, the crop makes up only a small fraction of the country’s agricultural output.

Most of the coffee grown in Mexico is of the arabica kind, and more than a third is grown at high elevation which yields the higher quality, and more expensive, varieties of beans.  Much of it is grown in the shade, which adds to the quality of the coffee.

Quality and yield improving after ‘leaf rust’ blight

Coffee yields have recovered in recent years after a blight of ‘leaf rust’ devastated crops and caused production to fall by half between 2012 and 2016.  However, as the recovery emerges, regions most affected by the blight appear now to be producing some exceptional coffee beans with improving yields. In the 2019-2020 season, producers harvested about 3.7 million 60-kilogram (132 pound) bags, and that is forecast to increase to 3.9 million bags in the 2020-2021 season.  Although less acreage is expected to be planted, efforts have been made to increase the number of plants per hectare and to plant with more disease resistant trees.

Mexico’s coffee-growing regions

Mexico has four principal growing regions, and the coffees that emanate from each one carry distinct flavors and aromas, influenced by the local terrain, rich volcanic soils, the climate, and elevation.

Chiapas: distinct, highly sought-after coffee

Mexico’s southernmost state of Chiapas is the country’s biggest coffee producer, accounting for more than 40% of the annual crop.  The high rainfall in this region keeps the volcanic soils moist which is ideal for coffee growers.  The best arabica coffees from Chiapas carry a smooth, medium-bodied taste, with bright yet moderated acidity, and hints of cacao.  The aroma from these coffees is strong, often chocolatey, but they tend to be smooth and creamy on the palate and often have hints of a caramel-like sweetness to them.  Some coffee connoisseurs consider Chiapas’s coffee to be the among the best of all Mexican coffees.

Veracruz: dark and bold volcanic influences

The state of Veracruz situated along the shores of Mexico’s Gulf coast produces about a quarter of the country’s coffee. Veracruz’s topography climbs steeply from the coastal plains into an elevated mountainous terrain that provides ideal growing conditions for arabica coffee beans.  The coffee from this region is known for its distinct combination of being smooth and full-bodied, with a balanced acidity that carries undertones of nut and chocolate in its flavors.  The nutrient-rich, dark volcanic soils of this region imbue their influence into the taste of this region’s coffee.

Oaxaca: noticeably milder, and refreshing

Mexico’s state of Oaxaca, bordering Chiapas on the south side, Veracruz to the east, Puebla on north side, and descending from its central highlands to the shores of the Pacific Ocean in the west is also a terrain permeated with volcanic nutrients and plenty of moisture.  The Pluma region is the most renowned for coffee growing in Oaxaca, and beans here are grown at lower elevations that produces a range of distinct flavors.  Milder than most other Mexican coffees, Oaxacan beans carry a sweeter caramel overtone, a light citrus acidity that gives them a refreshing taste, a creamy body and, like many Mexican coffees, they also carry base notes of cacao.

Puebla: the dark horse of Mexico’s coffee regions

The Sierra Norte region in the state of Puebla, southeast of Mexico City, produces around 15% of the country’s coffee.  This highland region is the least well-known of Mexico’s coffee growing regions and coffees produced here are strongly influenced by the elevation and diversity of nutrients from this terrain that is watched over by Popocatepetl, Mexico’s most famous —and active— volcano.  The beans harvested from this region create a complex coffee flavor that includes notes of vanilla, citrus, nutmeg, and cacao.

Imported coffees continue to thrive in Mexico

Notwithstanding the wide availability of fine home-grown coffees, around half of the coffee consumed in Mexico is imported.

This is partly because Mexican producers focus on growing the finer quality arabica varieties, instead of the lower grade robusta beans employed for making the instant coffee that remains popular here, and is likely also driven by demand for specialty beans and brands among coffee drinkers in Mexico’s urban areas who can afford to be choosy.

Imported coffee brands, which include erstwhile names like Lavazza and Illy, elaborated using arabica beans —whether from Colombia, Costa Rica or even parts of Africa— are invariably more expensive than similar quality Mexican coffee.  A touch of malinchismo might be at play, or simply a yen for variety.

Celebrating the continuity of life

Far from being a morbid event, Day of the Dead emphasizes remembrance of past lives and celebration of the continuity of life.

Day of the Dead is one of the most passionately celebrated events throughout Mexico, and especially so in smaller provincial towns and cities, although the places to be on Day of the Dead are the colonial town of Pátzcuaro (near Morelia) and Oaxaca City.

Plan your accommodations in advance

Hotels in Pátzcuaro tend to book-up during the summer for this event (some charismatic hotels are booked a year or more in advance), but late availability can sometimes be sought.

Hotel availability in Oaxaca is generally easier to come by (in part because there are more hotel rooms in Oaxaca), although most of the centrally-located hotels will book up early, leaving late-bookers to choose from the remaining rooms further outside of the historic center, or in nearby towns.

Alternative accommodations to hotels, offered by shared rentals in people’s homes, has added to the choice and supply of accommodations in Pátzcuaro as well as Oaxaca, which is especially useful for popular dates like Day of the Dead, although you can expect rates to be higher you might have to stay in a nearby town or village and travel in to the center of Pátzcuaro or Oaxaca for the events.

Planning your transportation

We recommend you plan your transportation options as flights and roads to Pátzcuaro get busy around dates leading up to and soon after Day of the Dead.

Getting to Pátzcuaro for Day of the Dead

The ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro is situated in the state of Michoacán, in the mountains west of Mexico City.

By air: If you’re planning to visit Pátzcuaro, the city of Morelia has an international airport with flights from Mexico City and various cities in the US.  Check FlightConnections for current routes.  The airport is about an hour’s drive by road from Pátzcuaro.

By bus: Morelia and Pátzcuaro can also be reached by luxury bus from Mexico City; the bus journey time is 5-6 hours.  Buses to Morelia depart from the capital’s eastern and northern bus terminals.

Driving: If you’re driving to Pátzcuaro, tolled highways 15D and 14D will take about 4-4.5 hours to drive from Mexico City, depending on traffic.

Getting to Oaxaca City for Day of the Dead

The capital city of Oaxaca is situated in southern Mexico, about 285 miles south of Mexico City.

By air: Oaxaca City is served by an international airport with flights from Mexico City and various cities in the US.  Check FlightConnections for current routes.  The airport is about a 30 minute drive by road from the center of Oaxaca City.

By Bus: Oaxaca City can reached by luxury bus from Mexico City; the bus journey time is 5-6 hours.  Buses to Oaxaca City depart from the capital’s western and southern bus terminals.

Driving: If you’re driving to Oaxaca City, tolled highways 150D and 135D will take about 4-4.5 hours to drive from Mexico City, depending on traffic.

Learn more about Day of the Dead in Mexico

We publish guides and articles to help you discover more about Day of the Dead in Mexico, as well as Pátzcuro and Oaxaca City.

• Articles to discover Day of the Dead in Mexico
• Celebrating life on Day of the Dead
• Meet the elegant Catrinas
• Altars and offerings for Day of the Dead
• Delicious bread and hot chocolate traditions
• The iconic flower synonymous with Day of the Dead
• Children’s Calaverita traditions
• Guides to Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca City

The sweeping landscape of Mexico’s central highlands (also known as the Mexican Altiplano) is home to some of the country’s most picturesque and agreeable colonial towns and cities which offer an abundance of character and culture—and the benefits of mountain living.

The benefits of mountain living in Mexico

Living at elevation —typically, Mexico’s inland colonial towns and cities are situated at elevations of at least 4,000 feet above sea level— offers several benefits:

Ideal climates

Many places situated at elevation in Mexico offer the benefit of year-round temperate, low-humidity, climates created by a combination of the locations’ latitude and an average elevation around 6,000 feet above sea level which make it a pleasure to live and be outdoors, and an ideal location to enjoy active outdoor activities.

Enjoy plenty of daylight all-year

Year-round and especially during the winter, you benefit from at least ten hours of daylight every day of the year, with no shortage of daylight hours in the winter, and you also enjoy extended light into the evenings during the late spring and summer months.  You can learn about climates through the seasons in Mexico here on Mexperience.

Fresh highland air and breathtaking views

Enjoy crisp, fresh, mountain air which complements the magnificent views from local vantage points, and elevations that can aid your good health and general well-being without being too high so as to become uncomfortable.

Access to good local infrastructure and amenities

Many of Mexico’s popular colonial highland towns and cities offer provincial living with plenty of local fresh food and produce markets, (much of it grown locally), independent shops and boutique traders, with accessibility to popular big-brand stores, outlets, and supermarkets as well as specialized stores offering foods and homewares foreign residents often seek out when living here. Most colonial cities also have adequate-to-excellent healthcare facilities locally; in smaller towns, more extensive facilities are available in larger nearby cities.

Well-connected to transport links

You’ll discover that the highland towns are well connected by modern roads, most are serviced by frequent intercity bus services, and some also have airports nearby. High-speed internet access is available in your home, as well as wireless data over advanced mobile networks which form part of Mexico’s extensive communications infrastructure.

Integrate into genuine local communities

Many of the colonial towns and cities offer you the opportunity to participate and integrate in local communities.  Here you can discover authentic neighborhoods and real local community spirit, and if you choose to, you can integrate with local lifestyles and community groups, and forge long-term friendships.

Considerations for mountain living in Mexico

Mountain living isn’t for everyone.  Some people yearn to be near the ocean with year-round warmth, whereas highland towns tend to be cooler—and may even get cold at times during the winter months.  A very small number of people find that they can’t adjust to living at higher elevations, while others find the mountain towns too remote, rural, or provincial for their lifestyle preferences or intentions.

If you’re unsure, visit for an extended stay

An ideal way to determine if mountain life in Mexico will suit you is to invest in a trial period —perhaps six months to a year— and see how you respond to the experience.  When you take the time to explore, you’ll discover thriving communities where, when you’re prepared to integrate, local people will come to know and greet you by name, you’ll cultivate appreciable relationships, you’ll give and receive value as you trade at the local markets through transactions which feel human and personal… and over time, you become the community you seek.

When you look with care you’ll also find the very best of Mexico in these places—people, culture, climate, food, amenities, and real local communities. For some, Mexico’s highland towns and cities become exceptionally special places to live.

Choosing between urban and (semi) rural settings

Other than Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Monterrey, Mexico’s highland towns and cities are situated in provincial (rural or semi-rural) settings and we recommend your consider whether living in the Mexican countryside would suit you, as well as giving careful thought to your lifestyle needs as a whole as you short-list potential places to live instead of looking at certain aspects in isolation.

As with other places you may consider moving to in Mexico, you’ll need to plan and prepare for your new lifestyle, you might need to acclimatize to the higher elevation, and you’ll need to be prepared to forge your own story here. Hundreds of thousands of foreign residents enjoy a good life in Mexico; with some considered choices and forward planning, you could as well.

Explore highland towns and cities in Mexico

Here are some of the more popular colonial towns and cities foreign residents have settled in, as well as some which are less well-known and gaining attention in recent times.

Mexico’s colonial heartland

Querétaro, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende for traditional colonial highland cities; Aguascalientes for a more contemporary living lifestyle; and Zacatecas if you’re seeking a mountain city off-the-beaten-track and on the edge of a mountain frontier.

South-central highlands

Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán, and Puebla.  These traditional provincial highland places are situated conveniently close to Mexico City and yet are far enough removed from the congestion of the capital to enjoy a genuine provincial atmosphere and feel.  For a more rustic option off-the-beaten track in this area, consider Taxco.

In the mountains west of Mexico City

The highland lakeside towns of Chapala, and Ajijic are home to the largest community of foreign residents in Mexico; the city of Morelia offers old-world colonial elegance, and the ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro offers an attractive blend of colonial indigenous cultures amidst an intimate colonial setting. If you’re seeking an urban lifestyle at elevation, Guadalajara offers vibrancy, culture, and all the benefits of a large metropolitan city, and is close to Ajijic, Chapala, and Jocotepec—small towns settled along the northern shoreline of Lake Chapala and home to tens of thousands of foreign residents, most from the US and Canada.

Further south, to Oaxaca and Chiapas

Oaxaca City remains one of the most authentic and cultured colonial cities in Mexico; and further south, in the breath-taking state of Chiapas, you’ll find the highland mountain town of San Cristobal de las Casas—somewhat off-the-beaten-track and close to the traditional indigenous mountain communities of San Juan Chamula and Zinacatán.

Discover more places to live in Mexico

Discover interesting and charming locations to live, work or retire in Mexico, and articles with helpful insights about choosing a place to settle here.

Resources for Living & Lifestyle in Mexico

Mexperience offers you a comprehensive online resource of information and local knowledge to help you discover Mexico, explore choices, find opportunities and plan a new life in Mexico.  Our resources include:

• Detailed knowledge about planning a move in Mexico
• Insightful articles about living and lifestyle in Mexico
• Detailed insights about retirement in Mexico
• Practical insights for planning your Mexico lifestyle
• A regular Mexico Newsletter you can subscribe to for free

Traditionally, November 1st honors deceased children and November 2nd honors deceased adults.  Day of the Dead is celebrated passionately throughout Mexico, and especially so in smaller provincial towns and cities. November 2nd is an official Public Holiday in Mexico.

Mexico’s Day of Dead: a celebration of life

Far from being a morbid event, Day of Dead emphasizes remembrance of past lives and expresses celebration of the continuity of life.  This acknowledgement of life’s continuity has roots which go back to some of Mexico’s oldest civilizations including the Olmec, Zapotec, Maya, and Purépecha.  The Aztecs also celebrated Day of the Dead, although earlier —August— on the current calendar.

Local festivities and traditions vary from place to place, although the ofrendas are the focal point of the celebrations during the festive period.  Mexico City hosts a large and elaborate procession downtown, and provincial towns and cities hold religious processions to mark the occasion.  It’s currently fashionable for participants to have their face painted to emulate Catrinas.

Although Halloween on October 31st and Dia de los Muertos on November 1st and 2nd are strictly speaking two distinct events, in recent times the two festive dates have blended into each other illustrating how Mexico is adept at assimilating foreign things without losing its own identity—and often putting a particularly Mexican stamp on them.

La Ofrenda: an altar of remembrance

Local families will plan for Day of the Dead celebrations days, weeks, or perhaps even a whole year in advance.  A focal point of the remembrance ritual is families creating ofrendas —altars with offerings to the deceased— which are set-up in homes or public spaces like parks or plazas, and also at local cemeteries where family members are buried.

These colorful altars, which are also an art form and personal expression of love towards one’s family members now passed, are not for worshiping but instead for the purpose of remembrance and celebration of a life lived.

They are usually layered: the top tier contains a picture or pictures of the remembered deceased as well as religious statues or symbols, especially that of La Virgen Guadalupe; the second tier will contain the ofrendas: toys are usually offered for deceased children, and bottles of tequila, mezcal, or atole for deceased adults.  Personal ornaments, and/or the deceased’s favorite food or confection will also be present here, as will Pan de Muerto.  The third tier will feature lit candles, and some people add a washbasin and a towel so that the spirits of the deceased may refresh themselves upon arrival at the altar.

Every altar will feature calaveras —decorated candied skulls made from sugar— as well as the bright orange marigolds, colloquially referred to as flor de muerto (“Flower of the Dead”), one of the iconic symbols woven into Day of the Dead celebrations across Mexico.

During the celebratory period, it’s traditional for families to visit local cemeteries where their loved ones are buried, where they clean and to decorate the graves with similar offerings to those included in the home’s altar.

Catrinas: artistic symbol of Day of the Dead celebrations

The character on which La Calavera Catrina —“The elegant skull”— is based was conceived by Mexican engraver José Guadalupe Posada. The original Catrina was titled La Calavera Garbancera: in the form of an artistic etching in zinc, composed for use as political satire around 1910, intended to poke fun at a certain social class of Mexicans who the artist portrayed as having European-aristocratic aspirations; thus the Catrina’s archetypal grandiose plumed hat of a style which passed through a period of high fashion in Europe during that age. This related article explains the history and culture of Catrinas in Mexico.

Pan de Muerto and hot chocolate: the traditional treat on Day of the Dead

One of the culinary highlights of the season is Pan de Muerto —Bread of the Dead— which is a semi-sweet sugar-dusted bread made from eggs and infused with natural citrus fruit flavors.  It’s traditionally taken with hot chocolate that has been mixed with cinnamon and whisked, a pairing that creates a warming blend for enjoyment on a chilly November evening.  Learn how to enjoy Pan de Muerto in Mexico.

Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca: popular towns to celebrate, with plenty of color elsewhere too

Day of the Dead is a holiday that attracts a certain fascination for visitors from abroad, and enjoyed by foreign residents who witness the unfolding of local festivities in their adopted towns and villages each year.

Celebrations in the colonial city of Oaxaca and the ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro are particularly well attended by foreign visitors, and forward planning is vital if you want to experience Day of the Dead at either of these places.

Even if you can’t get to Oaxaca or Pátzcuaro, you’ll discover that communities across Mexico compose their own interpretations of the event to celebrate Day of the Dead, and so wherever you are in Mexico this time of year you’ll have an opportunity to experience this distinctive celebration—one of the most colorful, poignant and atmospheric Mexico offers.

The precise ceremonies, offerings, and customs for Day of the Dead celebrations vary by region and town, but the essential traditions described here are an integral part of the event which is echoed all over Mexico.

A visit to a local cemetery, where family graves are dressed with color and decorations, a local park or plaza where ofrendas have been gathered, or a glimpse into one or more of the local homes which are opened-up to visitors during this period and where the lives of those past are lovingly remembered by those present is a rewarding and worthwhile cultural experience to behold.

Learn more about Day of the Dead in Mexico

We publish guides and articles to help you discover more about Day of the Dead in Mexico, as well as Pátzcuro and Oaxaca City.

• Articles to discover Day of the Dead in Mexico
• How to plan ahead for Day of the Dead
• Celebrating life on Day of the Dead
• Meet the elegant Catrinas
• Altars and offerings for Day of the Dead
• Delicious bread and hot chocolate traditions
• The iconic flower synonymous with Day of the Dead
• Children’s Calaverita traditions
• Guides to Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca City

Place is personal, subjective, and important—and as you consider places to live in Mexico, Mexperience helps you to consider your choices and shortlist locations that may suit your lifestyle needs.

Discover places to live, work or retire in Mexico

To help you discover and explore potential places to live here, Mexperience publishes a curated list of locations to consider for living, working or retirement in Mexico—organized by popularity and notoriety and classified by the location type.

Our articles introduce you to key places where many foreign residents live now, emerging locations that are becoming increasingly popular with foreign residents, as well as those places that are less well known, or situated off-the-beaten path. We also publish a selection of detailed guides of places to live in Mexico:

The most popular places to live in Mexico

Discover locations that have for a long time, or in recent times, garnered considerable popularity with foreign residents (retirees and others) and have active communities of interest established at the location.

Emerging locations to live in Mexico

Discover locations that have, in recent years, been catching the attention of foreign residents and have fledgling or developing communities of interest present there.

Underexplored locations to live in Mexico

Discover places that do not have significant numbers of foreign residents already established and are generally ‘off-the-beaten-path’ for most foreigners considering Mexico for living and retirement. These places can offer attractions that may be of interest to some potential foreign residents and retirees seeking someplace more traditional, unusual, and with a lower concentration of foreign residents living there.

Detailed living guides

For detailed guides to selected places to live and work or retire, connect to our section with Guides to Living Places in Mexico

About eight miles east of the city center is the village of Santa Maria del Tule, where you’ll find what can be seen in most towns and villages in Mexico: a quaint church, a small plaza, and local markets.  However, thousands of Mexican and foreign visitors flock to this village every month to witness something you cannot find elsewhere in Mexico—the remarkable El Tule, a 2,000 year-old living tree.

Getting to Santa Maria del Tule from Oaxaca City is very easy.  You can either take one of the local buses which run to the village every quarter of an hour or so from the city’s local bus station, or you can take a local taxi for a modest fare.  The journey time takes about 20 minutes on the bus.

When you arrive in Santa Maria del Tule, you’ll probably find a crowd of people milling around the churchyard, home to El Tule, the oldest living tree in Mexico and one of the oldest in North America.

There is a nominal entrance fee that will relieve you of just a few pesos, a sum that also includes an entrance ticket on the back of which you can learn about the tree’s characteristics and history.

El Tule is quite an impressive sight, and it’s also quite humbling to stand beside (and under the shade of) a living thing that has been around since Roman times. It’s well worth the short journey from Oaxaca city to the village of Santa Maria del Tule.

Travel Tip: Weekends are particularly busy, so week-day visits are recommended to avoid the biggest crowds.

Learn more about the remarkable colonial city of Oaxaca here on Mexperience.

Most (but not all) of Mexico’s colonial cities are situated at elevations of at least 5,000 feet above sea level and if the place you choose is situated in these high lands you can expect cooler and more temperate climates year-round than you’ll experience in colonial cities which are situated at lower elevation or nearer to the coasts where temperatures soar, particularly during the late spring and through the summer months.

During late fall and throughout the winter, early mornings, evenings, and nights are cooler in colonial cities—even chilly in some higher places that may also require the warmth of a fireplace or other heating system. The spring and fall climates are close to ideal in most of Mexico’s highland colonial cities, featuring a temperate ambiance with occasional rainfalls between otherwise undisturbed sunlight, shining across crisp and deep azure-blue skies.

The late spring and summer months in Mexico’s highland colonial cities are warm and can get quite hot.  Most regions experience seasonal rains between June and October each year; these often take the form of torrential afternoon or evening downpours which cool the high summer temperatures and make the local flora radiate with color and fragrance.

Which colonial cities are people moving to?  The two big ‘expat enclaves’ of San Miguel de Allende and Ajijic/Chapala have been popular with foreign residents for decades, and their lure and appeal is still attractive to many who visit and call these places their home, full or part-time.

Foreigners researching places to live in Mexico will usually come across popular colonial locations like San Miguel de Allende, Ajijic, and Cuernavaca. Other places that are less well-known but which have have been rising in popularity in recent years include: Mérida, Puebla, Guanajuato, Querétaro, and Oaxaca. For places somewhat off-the-beaten-path, you might also consider researching San Cristobal de las Casas, and Morelia (with nearby Pátzcuaro).  If you’re seeking a colonial setting near the coast consider Mazatlán, Manzanillo, and Campeche.

With the exception of the most popular colonial towns, Mexico’s colonial settings offer (generally speaking) lower property purchase and rental prices than equivalent land and homes situated at popular Mexican beach-side towns and resorts. However, house prices in colonial cities have risen substantially in recent years and property prices across Mexico are no longer the bargain they once were.  It’s also worth keeping in mind that lesser-known colonial locations don’t tend to generate the same level of property sales turnover as the most popular locations do, so if you buy land or property away from a fashionable area, it might take longer to sell.  You can learn all about property purchase and ownership in Mexico here on Mexperience.

We recommend above all else that you take time to step back and consider your lifestyle needs and short-list locations in Mexico that serve those needs.

If you’re looking for a long-term investment and a foothold in Mexico that will provide you with a stable home, a good climate, decent access by road (some cities also have airports not far away); a lower cost of living than the US, Canada and Europe; and a place where you can be surrounded by culture and heritage, do some research here on Mexperience to learn about Mexico’s colonial cities and then go and experience a few of them in person.  You may be pleasantly surprised.

The Guelaguetza has its roots in the cult to Centeōtl, the goddess of maize, and is the heart of numerous cultural activities and festivities celebrating Oaxaca’s traditions and pride in a scene of color, music, and history.

Guelaguetza is a Zapoteca word meaning “active cooperation”; it is a gift that evokes reciprocity expressed by music, dance, and songs. The festival, which takes place annually on the two Mondays following July 16th, is part of the Fiestas de los Lunes del Cerro (Monday Festivities on the Hill) in Oaxaca City—a tradition that has been celebrated for more than 500 years. This is a unique festival with significant historical and cultural roots. The contribution of indigenous culture and traditions is so important during the Lunes del Cerro celebrations, that they have come to be known simply as the Guelaguetza.

The entire city of Oaxaca participates in this event which today, due to Spanish influence, also reflects Christian values centered around Corpus Christi of the Temple of Carmen Alto, built by the Carmelita nuns on the Bella Vista hill. However, Guelaguetza retains many of the Zapoteca traditions such as being held in July – to coincide with a date on the Zapoteca calendar dedicated to the Centeōtl, the goddess of maize – and the eight-day celebrations are still called the “Octava.”

During the celebrations, groups representing each of the seven traditional regions: Central Valleys, Juarez Sierra, the Glens, Tuxtepec, the Mixteca, and the Coast and the Tehuantepec Isthmus, congregate in the city of Oaxaca. Each delegation exhibits its cultural heritage with dance, music, and local songs. The traditional gala costumes are also a reflection of their culture and respect for the ceremony.

One of the most noticeable features of the Guelaguetza is the public’s participation. At the end of the performance, each performing group distributes typical items from their region among the spectators. This offering is also called the Guelaguetza, and is a way for the artists to involve everyone who attends in the joy and meaning of the ceremony – through active cooperation – and in so doing, they also act out one of the most revered values of their indigenous ancestors.

Owing to the enormous enthusiasm from both locals and visitors during the Guelaguetza celebrations, several folkloric shows have been added to support the event. Among them is a parade that is staged by each delegation the Saturdays before the Monday Guelaguetza. Known as the Calenda, the parade is led by a marmota—a huge castle covered in cloth, the “giants,” and “Chinas Oaxaqueñas,” who are local women carrying colorful baskets accompanied by their musical bands.

On the same Saturday as the Calenda parade, a woman is chosen to represent Centéolt, who will preside over the celebrations. This is not a beauty contest; instead the woman with the most knowledge of her people’s traditions is chosen.

A wide variety of other events also take place in Oaxaca during the two weeks of the Guelaguetza festival, including concerts, conferences, and exhibits of local arts and handicrafts, offering a unique opportunity for visitors to get a feel for the culture and region of Oaxaca as well as acquire unique, hand-made artworks from local artisans. Since 1997 the country’s Mezcal fair has also been held in the city of Oaxaca during the weeks of the Guelaguetza celebrations.

The festival itself is celebrated on the Cerro del Fortin. A special auditorium built in the 1970s is in place specifically for this celebration. (Other events are held here at other times of the year.)  This outdoor auditorium, which also offers spectacular views over the city, has seating for about 11,000 spectators.  There are two shows on each Monday of the Guelaguetza: one at 9 a.m. and another at 5 p.m.

The auditorium has recently had a tarp-roof added to protect both spectators and performers from the hot sun.  Nonetheless, taking sunscreen and a sunhat is advisable, as well as a pair of binoculars or theater glasses if you are situated further back or want to see the detail of the costumes.  Ambulant vendors pass-by selling refreshments—take some cash (small bills) with you for purchases.

If you cannot make the July festival, Guelaguetza costumes and dancing can be enjoyed year-round in Oaxaca.  The Casa de Cantera restaurant is open seven days from 2 p.m. to late with tables arranged around a stage; from 8:30 p.m. every evening, a Guelaguetza dance spectacle is presented for all diners.  On Friday nights, the Camino Real hotel also features a dinner and Guelaguetza show.

Further details about this year’s events and celebrations can be found here

The state of Oaxaca (pronounced “wa-HAH-ka”) is one of Mexico’s richest states in terms of history, culture, archaeology, and ecology.

Oaxaca was home to Benito Juarez, originally a servant-boy to an affluent family, and the man who would become Mexico’s first president as well as one of Mexico’s most revered historical characters.

When the Spanish settled here during the 16th century, Oaxaca grew into a semi-prosperous colonial city; the most populous and important center in the south of Mexico. The city was nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1854, and it wasn’t until the era of Porfirio Diaz that the city began to properly rebuild and start to grow again.

Oaxaca hosts some of Mexico’s most vibrant natural terrain. From tropical forests, to high mountains, lush arable valleys, breathtaking rugged Pacific coasts, and quiet coves offering tranquil beaches with soft sands.

Black clay pottery and textiles are famous handicrafts produced here. Both crafts are well-established locally, and Oaxaca pottery is especially well known and sought-after throughout Mexico, and world-wide.

Oaxaca exhibits features that give this distinct location a mature character interlaced with a unique vibrancy—reasons why it is so highly spoken of by the people who know it.

The eternal Mexico is embodied in Oaxaca: deep indigenous roots interweave with colonial flair, and the result is a cultural and historical vibrancy which is as emotive as it is unique.

Oaxaca City offers a blend of experiences and attractions, including an engaging historical colonial center with cobbled streets, striking architecture, quiet plazas, and a fine central square often filled with soft sounds created by local musicians serenading people as they rest under the shade of its trees, as well as those taking some time to enjoy fine coffee and quiet conversation at one of the local cafés.

Nearby, you’ll find an abundance of attractions (see below) – including El Tule – the 2,000-year-old living tree.

Monte Albán, and Mitla, two of Mexico’s outstanding archaeological parks, are also near here; you can discover them through Mexperience guides.

If you’re seeking to uncover the roots and the heart of Mexico, you’ll find them both in Oaxaca. This is a place to come when you’re hungry to explore the ‘undiscovered Mexico’, a region where friendly people, breath-taking architecture, a perfect climate, and delicious foods blend together to create an extraordinary cultural experience that is authentically Mexican.

People who come to Oaxaca tend to keep coming back. Every time they return, they see something new in what they already know—and know that they’ll find something brand-new to experience as well.

Ask any Mexican about Oaxaca and the first thing they’ll usually tell you is that it’s ‘the soul of Mexico’. It is true that Mexico’s roots and heart extend from here; but to understand why it’s called so, you’ll need to come and feel the atmosphere, smell the air, and absorb the culture.

Key Attractions

Colonial Center

Oaxaca city is a well preserved, charming and vibrant colonial city. The city center has been restored in recent times. The city is host to some of the most important colonial buildings in Mexico and these are protected by INAH, the government body responsible for securing the country’s heritage.

The center of town around the zocalo (Main Plaza) is completely closed off to traffic, and cafés and restaurants that surround the tree-lined square make a perfect setting for a relaxed drink or two while enjoying the warm sunshine and watching the world go by.

The city’s Cathedral, which was finished in the 18th century is just north of the zocalo and features some stunning stone carvings on its front facade.

The old Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace) is on the south side of the zocalo and features some great architecture both inside and out. The seat of local government has moved out of the historic building to an out-of-town location. As a result the impressive palace is being converted into a museum and cultural center.

To see a French-style indoor theatre, go to the Teatro Macedonio Alcala, built in 1903. You’ll find it on Av. 5 de Mayo and Independencia. The theater has seating for over 1,300 people on five tiers, and features an impressive marble staircase.

One of Oaxaca’s most impressive-looking churches, and often seen in photographs promoting the city, is the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. The church was originally a Dominican Monastery; the internal decor is quite brilliant. In the evenings, the inside of the church is illuminated by soft candlelight.

To see Oaxaca’s oldest church, you’ll need to walk about 2 blocks southwest of the zocalo and find the Iglesia de San Juan de Dios. This is a simple church, built around 1521, and is very popular with the local people.

Museums and Art in Oaxaca

Oaxaca has many good museums, which is not surprising given the rich culture, history, and archaeology that Oaxaca has. A few of the main ones are listed here and you can get a complete listing from the local tourism office (see Practical Information).

Museo Regional de Oaxaca (Regional Museum of Oaxaca) – Among other historical treasures, this museum hosts artifacts from Monte Alban’s Tomb No. 7 which contained corpses, jewelry and gold.

Rufino Tamayo Museo de Arte Pre Hispanico (Rufino Tamayo Museum of Pre Hispanic Art) – Rufino Tamayo (who was from Oaxaca) was also one of Mexico’s most famous artists and this museum is collection of great pre-Hispanic art collected over a period of around 20 years.

Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca (Museum of Oaxacan Contemporary Art) – Is situated on the picturesque street of Alacala, includes collections from Mexico’s most contemporary artists including Rufino Tamayo, Rodolfo Morales, Francisco Toledo, Rodolfo Nieto and others.

El Tule – Mexico’s Oldest Living Tree

There are buses every quarter of an hour from Oaxaca’s second-class bus station to Santa Maria del Tule – Home to Mexico’s (and one of the world’s) oldest living trees, celebrating 2000 years and still growing. You can read about El Tule and see a picture gallery here. The tree is situated just 14 km (8 miles) away from Oaxaca City and makes an easy morning or afternoon trip.

[Menu]

Getting There & Around

By Air – You can fly to Oaxaca from the US and and other points in Mexico including Mexico City, and some other smaller regional airports in the south of Mexico. The airport is on Oaxaca’s south side and it takes around 20-30 minutes to travel the 4 miles into the city center using ground transportation. Taxis, or for a cheaper ride, combis (mini vans) can take you into the city center. For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.

By Bus – You can travel to Oaxaca on a luxury bus from Mexico City – the trip takes around 6 hours on the highway that connects Oaxaca City to Mexico’s capital. Buses depart from Mexico City’s eastern bus station (Central de Autobuses Oriente) and are frequent and plentiful, although prebooking is advised during Mexican Holiday periods (see Busy times in Oaxaca, below). For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car – Driving to Oaxaca is very fast and efficient now with a high-speed toll road which leads directly to the colonial city from the nation’s capital. Take Highway 150 (Toll Road to Puebla) and keep going. The journey takes around 5 hours by car. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience.

Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico and connect to the Mexperience Travel Center to reserve your Rental Car.

Taxis – Taxis in most of Mexico’s colonial towns and cities are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico, in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a price with the driver. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico.

Local Events Calendar

Major National Festivities are celebrated with vigor here, and Oaxaca becomes very busy during Easter Week, Guelaguetza (July) Day of Dead (November), and over Christmas.

Guelaguetza: One of the biggest and most important festivls in Mexico is the Guelaguetza, a festival of colorful folk dancing and music which takes place here in Oaxaca around in July each year. For more details read Guelaguezta, Oaxaca on our blog.

Book Ahead! If you plan to visit Oaxaca during one of the major festivals it’s advisable to book your transport and accommodations well in advance. Buses and flights book up and hotels sell out during the festive periods.

Oaxaca Essentials

Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found downtown, with a row of banks and exchange houses on a road off the south side of the main plaza. During business hours, they and the local Casas de Cambio will exchange your foreign currency. Read about money and currency exchange in Mexperience’s Money Section.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Internet Access: Internet cafes are commonplace in Mexico – new ones open and old ones close all the time – but you won’t have to look hard to find one downtown and in the main tourist areas.

Busy Times in Oaxaca: During religious holidays (Christmas and Easter) and the Guelaguetza festival in July (see Local Events Calendar, above), Oaxaca becomes very busy as Mexicans go on holiday in the region and many Oaxaqueños return home to their families for the holidays. If your travel plans involve visiting this area during these times be sure to book ahead, especially your accommodation.

What to Buy in Oaxaca

Shopping for arts, crafts, textiles, pottery, and wood carvings in Oaxaca is a real treat. The selection is immense and the quality and value is unbeatable.

Everything you buy in Oaxaca will be made in the surrounding towns and villages by artisans and crafts people living there. There are several markets in Oaxaca itself, as well as a plethora of craft shops and ambulant vendors.

The main market in the city is the Central de Abastos— the big day is Saturday, although you’ll find activity there every day of the week.

The surrounding towns and villages also have their own markets, which specialize in a particular kind of product, e.g.: pottery, textiles, wood carving, cheese, local food, crafts, etc. Tours out to these markets can be arranged locally. Here are the locations, days and products:

Monday: Miahuatlan for bread, leather and mezcal.

Tuesday: Santa Ana del Valle for miscellaneous arts and crafts.

Wednesday: Etla for flowers, cheese and meats.

Thursday: Ejutla for textiles and mezcal.

Friday: Ocotlan for flowers, textiles, and pottery.

Saturday: Oaxaca at the Central de Abastos (see above).

Sunday: Tlacolula for rugs and ceramics; and Tlaxiaco for blankets and leather jackets.

Local Climate

Oaxaca enjoys year-round, warm and dry weather (hot and humid on/near the coasts). The climate is ideal for taking part in a variety of outdoor activities and for taking in the local culture, architecture, and scenery. Rains are seldom a feature here; when they do come they tend to be during the months of April thru November, but as with most monsoon areas, rains tend to be fierce and brief in the late afternoon, leaving the evenings dry and cooled off.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

In the state of Oaxaca, just a short road trip from Oaxaca City lie two remarkable archaeological sites: Monte Albán, and nearby Mitla.

Perched between two lush valleys, which had inhabitants as far back as 2000 BC, is Monte Albán (meaning White Mountain). The top of the mountain was leveled and upon the mesa they created, the people here built a great city, the ruins of which you can see today. The views from this archaeological site are magnificent.

This archaeological center is a short trip outside of Oaxaca city and should ideally form part of your itinerary when you plan to travel in this part of Mexico.

Many artifacts and treasures found on Monte Albán can now be seen at the Museo de Oaxaca – connect to the guide to Oaxaca with Mexperience for more information about this.

Buses travel frequently to Monte Albán from the local bus station in Oaxaca city or, but to get the most from a visit, go on a guided tour.

Key Attractions

Your experience of Monte Alban should start at La Gran Plaza (Great Plaza), which is about 60,000 square meters in size and marks the center of Monte Alban.

The Plataforma Norte (North Platform) is nearly as large as the Grand Plaza and is host to a ceremonial area, including an altar.

There are several tombs, most of which are closed, with the exception of Tomb No. 104 whose interior walls are painted with colorful frescoes.

Other attractions at Monte Alban include the Juego de Pelota (Ball Court), which is slightly different to the ball courts at other sites in the area; El Palacio (The Palace) with its patio at the top and the Plataforma Sur (South Platform) which features an attractive staircase and surrenders an excellent panoramic view of the main plaza.

Getting There & Around

By Air – The closest airport to Monte Alban is Oaxaca. For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.

By Car – Monte Alban is located less than 6 miles (10 km) southwest of Oaxaca. Take a road named “Trujano”, which leads out of town and onto the road to Monte Alban. Also see additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience.

By Bus – Regular local buses make the trip from Oaxaca to Monte Alban, all-day, every-day. Oaxaca is easily accessible by bus from all main cities in the region as well being a fast and efficient journey from Mexico City on a modern, tolled, highway. For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

Practical Information

Opening Days & Times: Daily 8 am to 5 pm. Modest admission charges apply and there are concessions for students, children and seniors.  On Sundays, admission is free for Mexican citizens and foreign residents (with proof of residency).

Photography & Video: A permit is required if you want to use a tripod to take photographs at the archaeological site. A small fee is made for the use of hand-held video equipment. Read the section on Mexperience Mexico Essentials about Video & Photography at archaeological sites in Mexico.

Ideal Clothing & Footwear: Wear comfortable walking/hiking shoes with a non-slip sole. Dress with light clothing that allows your skin to breathe.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Nearby Places & Attractions

Major Cities: Mexico City (closest)

Colonial Cities: Oaxaca, Puebla, Veracruz

Nearest Beaches/ Resorts: Huatulco, Puerto Escondido, Cancun, Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen

Other Archaeological Sites: Mitla, Chichen Itza, Coba, Uxmal, and Tulum

Local Climate

Monte Alban is hot and humid. Dress with light clothes that enable your skin to breathe. Bring sun screen, insect repellent and a hat. Take and drink plenty of water at all times.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico