Mexican coffee production is widespread, with more than 300,000 mostly small growers dedicated to its cultivation across 15 of Mexico’s 32 states, and despite the country being the 10th largest coffee producer in the world, the crop makes up only a small fraction of the country’s agricultural output.
Most of the coffee grown in Mexico is of the arabica kind, and more than a third is grown at high elevation which yields the higher quality, and more expensive, varieties of beans. Much of it is grown in the shade, which adds to the quality of the coffee.
Coffee yields have recovered in recent years after a blight of ‘leaf rust’ devastated crops and caused production to fall by half between 2012 and 2016. However, as the recovery emerges, regions most affected by the blight appear now to be producing some exceptional coffee beans with improving yields. In the 2019-2020 season, producers harvested about 3.7 million 60-kilogram (132 pound) bags, and that is forecast to increase to 3.9 million bags in the 2020-2021 season. Although less acreage is expected to be planted, efforts have been made to increase the number of plants per hectare and to plant with more disease resistant trees.
Mexico has four principal growing regions, and the coffees that emanate from each one carry distinct flavors and aromas, influenced by the local terrain, rich volcanic soils, the climate, and elevation.
Mexico’s southernmost state of Chiapas is the country’s biggest coffee producer, accounting for more than 40% of the annual crop. The high rainfall in this region keeps the volcanic soils moist which is ideal for coffee growers. The best arabica coffees from Chiapas carry a smooth, medium-bodied taste, with bright yet moderated acidity, and hints of cacao. The aroma from these coffees is strong, often chocolatey, but they tend to be smooth and creamy on the palate and often have hints of a caramel-like sweetness to them. Some coffee connoisseurs consider Chiapas’s coffee to be the among the best of all Mexican coffees.
The state of Veracruz situated along the shores of Mexico’s Gulf coast produces about a quarter of the country’s coffee. Veracruz’s topography climbs steeply from the coastal plains into an elevated mountainous terrain that provides ideal growing conditions for arabica coffee beans. The coffee from this region is known for its distinct combination of being smooth and full-bodied, with a balanced acidity that carries undertones of nut and chocolate in its flavors. The nutrient-rich, dark volcanic soils of this region imbue their influence into the taste of this region’s coffee.
Mexico’s state of Oaxaca, bordering Chiapas on the south side, Veracruz to the east, Puebla on north side, and descending from its central highlands to the shores of the Pacific Ocean in the west is also a terrain permeated with volcanic nutrients and plenty of moisture. The Pluma region is the most renowned for coffee growing in Oaxaca, and beans here are grown at lower elevations that produces a range of distinct flavors. Milder than most other Mexican coffees, Oaxacan beans carry a sweeter caramel overtone, a light citrus acidity that gives them a refreshing taste, a creamy body and, like many Mexican coffees, they also carry base notes of cacao.
The Sierra Norte region in the state of Puebla, southeast of Mexico City, produces around 15% of the country’s coffee. This highland region is the least well-known of Mexico’s coffee growing regions and coffees produced here are strongly influenced by the elevation and diversity of nutrients from this terrain that is watched over by Popocatepetl, Mexico’s most famous —and active— volcano. The beans harvested from this region create a complex coffee flavor that includes notes of vanilla, citrus, nutmeg, and cacao.
Notwithstanding the wide availability of fine home-grown coffees, around half of the coffee consumed in Mexico is imported.
This is partly because Mexican producers focus on growing the finer quality arabica varieties, instead of the lower grade robusta beans employed for making the instant coffee that remains popular here, and is likely also driven by demand for specialty beans and brands among coffee drinkers in Mexico’s urban areas who can afford to be choosy.
Imported coffee brands, which include erstwhile names like Lavazza and Illy, elaborated using arabica beans —whether from Colombia, Costa Rica or even parts of Africa— are invariably more expensive than similar quality Mexican coffee. A touch of malinchismo might be at play, or simply a yen for variety.
The post Growing Refreshment in Mexico’s Coffee Regions first appeared on Mexperience.]]>The sweeping landscape of Mexico’s central highlands (also known as the Mexican Altiplano) is home to some of the country’s most picturesque and agreeable colonial towns and cities which offer an abundance of character and culture—and the benefits of mountain living.
Living at elevation —typically, Mexico’s inland colonial towns and cities are situated at elevations of at least 4,000 feet above sea level— offers several benefits:
Many places situated at elevation in Mexico offer the benefit of year-round temperate, low-humidity, climates created by a combination of the locations’ latitude and an average elevation around 6,000 feet above sea level which make it a pleasure to live and be outdoors, and an ideal location to enjoy active outdoor activities.
Year-round and especially during the winter, you benefit from at least ten hours of daylight every day of the year, with no shortage of daylight hours in the winter, and you also enjoy extended light into the evenings during the late spring and summer months. You can learn about climates through the seasons in Mexico here on Mexperience.
Enjoy crisp, fresh, mountain air which complements the magnificent views from local vantage points, and elevations that can aid your good health and general well-being without being too high so as to become uncomfortable.
Many of Mexico’s popular colonial highland towns and cities offer provincial living with plenty of local fresh food and produce markets, (much of it grown locally), independent shops and boutique traders, with accessibility to popular big-brand stores, outlets, and supermarkets as well as specialized stores offering foods and homewares foreign residents often seek out when living here. Most colonial cities also have adequate-to-excellent healthcare facilities locally; in smaller towns, more extensive facilities are available in larger nearby cities.
You’ll discover that the highland towns are well connected by modern roads, most are serviced by frequent intercity bus services, and some also have airports nearby. High-speed internet access is available in your home, as well as wireless data over advanced mobile networks which form part of Mexico’s extensive communications infrastructure.
Many of the colonial towns and cities offer you the opportunity to participate and integrate in local communities. Here you can discover authentic neighborhoods and real local community spirit, and if you choose to, you can integrate with local lifestyles and community groups, and forge long-term friendships.
Mountain living isn’t for everyone. Some people yearn to be near the ocean with year-round warmth, whereas highland towns tend to be cooler—and may even get cold at times during the winter months. A very small number of people find that they can’t adjust to living at higher elevations, while others find the mountain towns too remote, rural, or provincial for their lifestyle preferences or intentions.
An ideal way to determine if mountain life in Mexico will suit you is to invest in a trial period —perhaps six months to a year— and see how you respond to the experience. When you take the time to explore, you’ll discover thriving communities where, when you’re prepared to integrate, local people will come to know and greet you by name, you’ll cultivate appreciable relationships, you’ll give and receive value as you trade at the local markets through transactions which feel human and personal… and over time, you become the community you seek.
When you look with care you’ll also find the very best of Mexico in these places—people, culture, climate, food, amenities, and real local communities. For some, Mexico’s highland towns and cities become exceptionally special places to live.
Other than Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Monterrey, Mexico’s highland towns and cities are situated in provincial (rural or semi-rural) settings and we recommend your consider whether living in the Mexican countryside would suit you, as well as giving careful thought to your lifestyle needs as a whole as you short-list potential places to live instead of looking at certain aspects in isolation.
As with other places you may consider moving to in Mexico, you’ll need to plan and prepare for your new lifestyle, you might need to acclimatize to the higher elevation, and you’ll need to be prepared to forge your own story here. Hundreds of thousands of foreign residents enjoy a good life in Mexico; with some considered choices and forward planning, you could as well.
Here are some of the more popular colonial towns and cities foreign residents have settled in, as well as some which are less well-known and gaining attention in recent times.
Querétaro, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende for traditional colonial highland cities; Aguascalientes for a more contemporary living lifestyle; and Zacatecas if you’re seeking a mountain city off-the-beaten-track and on the edge of a mountain frontier.
Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán, and Puebla. These traditional provincial highland places are situated conveniently close to Mexico City and yet are far enough removed from the congestion of the capital to enjoy a genuine provincial atmosphere and feel. For a more rustic option off-the-beaten track in this area, consider Taxco.
The highland lakeside towns of Chapala, and Ajijic are home to the largest community of foreign residents in Mexico; the city of Morelia offers old-world colonial elegance, and the ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro offers an attractive blend of colonial indigenous cultures amidst an intimate colonial setting. If you’re seeking an urban lifestyle at elevation, Guadalajara offers vibrancy, culture, and all the benefits of a large metropolitan city, and is close to Ajijic, Chapala, and Jocotepec—small towns settled along the northern shoreline of Lake Chapala and home to tens of thousands of foreign residents, most from the US and Canada.
Oaxaca City remains one of the most authentic and cultured colonial cities in Mexico; and further south, in the breath-taking state of Chiapas, you’ll find the highland mountain town of San Cristobal de las Casas—somewhat off-the-beaten-track and close to the traditional indigenous mountain communities of San Juan Chamula and Zinacatán.
Discover interesting and charming locations to live, work or retire in Mexico, and articles with helpful insights about choosing a place to settle here.
Mexperience offers you a comprehensive online resource of information and local knowledge to help you discover Mexico, explore choices, find opportunities and plan a new life in Mexico. Our resources include:
It appears that many people in the U.S. think Cinco de Mayo is Mexico’s Independence Day, the equivalent of the Fourth of July. May 5 isn’t an official national holiday in Mexico. Schools and some commercial office workers have the day off, but businesses open.
Cinco de Mayo marks the Battle of Puebla in 1862, when the Mexican army led by Gen. Ignacio Zaragoza defeated French invaders. The following year the Napoleonic troops, with reinforcements, were successful and later installed Austrian archduke Maximilian of Habsburg as emperor.
Mexico’s Independence Day is celebrated on September 16, and that is a national holiday. The date marks the call to arms in 1810 by Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, which set off a long war for independence from Spain. Independence was finally achieved in 1821.
Revolution Day, which marks the anniversary of the start of the 1910-1917 Revolution, is November 20.
The post Cinco de Mayo in Mexico first appeared on Mexperience.]]>Place is personal, subjective, and important—and as you consider places to live in Mexico, Mexperience helps you to consider your choices and shortlist locations that may suit your lifestyle needs.
To help you discover and explore potential places to live here, Mexperience publishes a curated list of locations to consider for living, working or retirement in Mexico—organized by popularity and notoriety and classified by the location type.
Our articles introduce you to key places where many foreign residents live now, emerging locations that are becoming increasingly popular with foreign residents, as well as those places that are less well known, or situated off-the-beaten path. We also publish a selection of detailed guides of places to live in Mexico:
Discover locations that have for a long time, or in recent times, garnered considerable popularity with foreign residents (retirees and others) and have active communities of interest established at the location.
Discover locations that have, in recent years, been catching the attention of foreign residents and have fledgling or developing communities of interest present there.
Discover places that do not have significant numbers of foreign residents already established and are generally ‘off-the-beaten-path’ for most foreigners considering Mexico for living and retirement. These places can offer attractions that may be of interest to some potential foreign residents and retirees seeking someplace more traditional, unusual, and with a lower concentration of foreign residents living there.
For detailed guides to selected places to live and work or retire, connect to our section with Guides to Living Places in Mexico
The post Discover Locations in Mexico for Living, Working, Retirement first appeared on Mexperience.]]>At its zenith, Cholula was the second largest city in the land after Tenochtitlán. It is thought to have been an important religious and cultural center at the time. The city fell to the Olmecs sometime around 600AD, and again to the Toltecs about three hundred years later. By the time Hernán Cortés arrived—during the early part of the 16th Century—the city was under Aztec influence.
Cholula is well known for its archaeology park, which is host to Mexico’s largest pyramid – Pirámide Tepanapa – which is also the world’s largest pyramid by volume: bigger, in that sense, than the Great Pyramid of Cheops in Egypt.
Another feature of Cholula is the number of churches situated here. According to legend, Hernán Cortés ordered 365 of them to be built after the Cholulans conspired with the Aztecs in a failed attempt to ambush him. In actual fact, the town has about forty-five churches—a significant number in relation to its size and population.
In addition to the archaeology park and churches, Cholula offers several cultural attractions, including museums and the Franciscan Library, situated in the grounds of the Ex Convento de San Gabriel; beautifully restored and stocking some 24,000 tomes of public works dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries.
Charismatic local markets, handicraft stores, access to fine Talavera pottery and local artwork, as well as guided tours to the ‘must see’ villages of Tonantzintla and Acatepec are some of the other attractions on offer to visitors here.
There is something else which attracts visitors to Cholula: a close-up view of Mexico’s two most famous volcanoes, Popocatépetl and Iztaccihuatl. The best views are usually offered in the morning, before the heat of the day creates mist and clouds which obscure the view. By staying overnight at one of Cholula’s hotels, you may enjoy the experience of watching the sun rise and illuminate peaks of these breathtaking and majestic volcanic mountains.
For a complete introduction to this unique and historically important town, read the Mexperience Guide to Cholula
Make your next travel experience in Mexico something special
We work with long-established experts who know colonial Mexico intimately and will arrange an inspiring travel experience for you. Contact us and we’ll help you to create a memorable journey: Plan Your Mexico Trip
Most (but not all) of Mexico’s colonial cities are situated at elevations of at least 5,000 feet above sea level and if the place you choose is situated in these high lands you can expect cooler and more temperate climates year-round than you’ll experience in colonial cities which are situated at lower elevation or nearer to the coasts where temperatures soar, particularly during the late spring and through the summer months.
During late fall and throughout the winter, early mornings, evenings, and nights are cooler in colonial cities—even chilly in some higher places that may also require the warmth of a fireplace or other heating system. The spring and fall climates are close to ideal in most of Mexico’s highland colonial cities, featuring a temperate ambiance with occasional rainfalls between otherwise undisturbed sunlight, shining across crisp and deep azure-blue skies.
The late spring and summer months in Mexico’s highland colonial cities are warm and can get quite hot. Most regions experience seasonal rains between June and October each year; these often take the form of torrential afternoon or evening downpours which cool the high summer temperatures and make the local flora radiate with color and fragrance.
Which colonial cities are people moving to? The two big ‘expat enclaves’ of San Miguel de Allende and Ajijic/Chapala have been popular with foreign residents for decades, and their lure and appeal is still attractive to many who visit and call these places their home, full or part-time.
Foreigners researching places to live in Mexico will usually come across popular colonial locations like San Miguel de Allende, Ajijic, and Cuernavaca. Other places that are less well-known but which have have been rising in popularity in recent years include: Mérida, Puebla, Guanajuato, Querétaro, and Oaxaca. For places somewhat off-the-beaten-path, you might also consider researching San Cristobal de las Casas, and Morelia (with nearby Pátzcuaro). If you’re seeking a colonial setting near the coast consider Mazatlán, Manzanillo, and Campeche.
With the exception of the most popular colonial towns, Mexico’s colonial settings offer (generally speaking) lower property purchase and rental prices than equivalent land and homes situated at popular Mexican beach-side towns and resorts. However, house prices in colonial cities have risen substantially in recent years and property prices across Mexico are no longer the bargain they once were. It’s also worth keeping in mind that lesser-known colonial locations don’t tend to generate the same level of property sales turnover as the most popular locations do, so if you buy land or property away from a fashionable area, it might take longer to sell. You can learn all about property purchase and ownership in Mexico here on Mexperience.
We recommend above all else that you take time to step back and consider your lifestyle needs and short-list locations in Mexico that serve those needs.
If you’re looking for a long-term investment and a foothold in Mexico that will provide you with a stable home, a good climate, decent access by road (some cities also have airports not far away); a lower cost of living than the US, Canada and Europe; and a place where you can be surrounded by culture and heritage, do some research here on Mexperience to learn about Mexico’s colonial cities and then go and experience a few of them in person. You may be pleasantly surprised.
The post A Colonial Foothold in Mexico first appeared on Mexperience.]]>Spain’s colonial influence remains remarkably notable in Puebla: from the moment you approach the city center, you see the dome-shaped roofs of churches and buildings, suggesting Spanish and Moor influences which arrived centuries ago and have remained here in Puebla ever since.
The city is known for one of Mexico’s most notable historic battles, which took place on May 5th 1862, against the French. Today Cinco de Mayo (fifth of May) is a holiday in the state of Puebla.
Puebla is famous for its cuisine, as some of Mexico’s most popular national dishes, including Mole and Chile Poblano were created in Puebla.
The colonial center is a colorful, vibrant and charming reflection of what Mexico’s colonial days looked and felt like. The main plaza is the central focus of the colonial city and weekends see the center packed with locals and visitors, enjoying the relaxed atmosphere, street performers and live bands.
When the Spanish arrived, they brought with them Talavera (itself a Moor craft), a very strong and hard-wearing ceramic, which was colorfully decorated and used primarily for tiles. Today, Talavera is still manufactured here; and while it’s not an inexpensive item anywhere you buy it in Mexico, you can find some of the lowest prices for it here in Puebla.
The state of Puebla is home Mexico’s most famous (and non-dormant) volcano: Popocatepetl. If you drive or take the bus to Puebla, you’ll see this magnificent tower of natural energy from the south side; it is sometimes capped with snow. In the 1970s you could see it from Mexico City, but today, air pollution blocks the view on most days. The best views of the volcano can be seen early in the morning; late mornings and afternoons bring heat that causes mist and obscures the view.
A short drive from Puebla is the colonial town of Cholula; famous for its churches and views of Popocatepetl and Iztaccíhuatl; see Key Attractions, below, for more details and related links.
Puebla is well connected by road with Mexico City, and also has an airport, so it’s very accessible. While you can see Puebla on a long day trip from the capital, we recommend staying longer to enjoy a better experience and gain a deeper appreciation of this beautiful and important colonial city.
The look, feel and atmosphere in Puebla’s colonial center is distinctly Spanish/Moor. The colonial center is well preserved, the streets are cobbled or laid with old-style paving stones. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the surroundings are colorful; the ambiance here is distinctly colonial.
Start your experience in the main plaza, the zocalo. The principal tree-lined square is surrounded by a selection of shops and restaurants; many people start their day by enjoying breakfast at one of the restaurants surrounding he square.
On the south side of the city’s zocalo (main square) is the Puebla’s breath-taking cathedral.
The cathedral’s bell towers are 69 meters high (over 207 feet), making them the tallest bell towers of any cathedral in Mexico. The tone of the bells is truly exceptional, and the interior of the cathedral is spectacular; and includes the largest church organ in Mexico.
Adjacent to the cathedral, you’ll find the Casa de la Cultura which takes up a whole block and hosts, among other things, the oldest library in the Americas: Biblioteca Palafoxiana.
A lot of the architecture here features Talavera tiles – look out for them as you explore the various streets and plazas around this picturesque colonial city.
There are a couple of Temples you shouldn’t miss: Templo de San Francisco and Templo de Santo Domingo; both have excellent examples of 16th and 17th century architecture.
There’s no better way to learn Spanish than by becoming immersed in it at a language school in Mexico. Puebla is one of Mexico’s finest colonial cities and is also well-known as a cultural and language center; there are number of fine language schools here. Read our guide to Learning Spanish in Mexico for more details and to find a language school in Puebla.
Away from the colonial center, up on the hill, you’ll discover one of Puebla’s main parks: Cerro de Guadalupe. Take a trip here if you’re looking for some nice views and some green surroundings. There is also a a couple of historical forts here and a museum as well.
Just a fifteeen minute cab ride from the center of Puebla is the town of Cholula. Although the most famous attraction of Cholula is its famous archaeology park, the town itself provides an excellent base to explore nearby villages and procure some fine art and Talavera ceramic ware. Also, if you want to see the Volcanoes clearly, Cholula is the perfect place to stay overnight so that you can see the volcanoes clearly early in the morning. For more details, read our complete Travel Guide to Cholula.
Puebla has a good number of Museums to visit. The main ones include:
Museo Amparo – which is one of the best archaeological Museums in Mexico;
Museo Bello – situated in a colonial house in the historic center, the museum hosts fine art, furniture and antiques from around the world;
Museo de Artes Populares – (Popular Art Museum) offers a selection of Mexican Arts and Crafts, as well as a traditional kitchen, displaying native Mexican cuisine;
Museo de la Revolucion – (Revolution Museum) is house that staged the first battle of the 1910 revolution.
Museo del Ferrocarril – S (Locomotive Museum) hosts a couple of handful’s of vintage locomotives.
The climate in Puebla is ideal for golf all year-round, and due to the influence of the high number of multi-national companies based here, there are several good golf courses where you can play.
By Air – You can fly to Puebla from the US and and other points in Mexico including Mexico City, Guadalajara, Leon and Tijuana. Connect to the Mexperience guide about Air Travel in Mexico for more details.
By Bus – You can travel to Puebla on a luxury bus from Mexico City – the trip takes around 2 hours. Buses travel from the Southern Bus Terminal and also directly from the Airport. Connect to the Mexperience guide about Bus Travel in Mexico for more details.
By Car – Driving to Puebla is very fast and efficient on the high-speed road that connects the Capital to Puebla. Take Highway 150D South, or from Veracruz 150D, West. See the detailed Mexperience guide to Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads for full details.
From the Airport – The airport is about 10 miles west of Puebla and ground transportation is available into town; buy your tickets from the terminal building inside the airport.
Taxis – Puebla’s street taxis are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a better price! Another good reason to Learn Spanish!
Rent a Car – If you plan to explore the region independently, renting a car would be a smart option as it will give you the freedom and flexibility to see more of the area and its surrounding attractions. Learn more about Renting in a Car in Mexico on our detailed guide. You can rent a car from Mexico City or the airport at Puebla: see the Travel Reservations Center for Car Rental in Mexico
Telephone: Connect to the Communications in Mexico Page on Mexperience for full information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.
Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines are found throughout the downtown area of Puebla, especially in the areas around the main plaza (Zocalo). During business hours, they and the local Casas de Cambio will buy traveler’s cheques and cash from you as well. Read about currency exchange in Mexperience’s Money Section.
Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical cover and/or travel assistance cover when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.
Internet Access: Internet cafes can be easily found in towns and cities across Mexico and WiFi is increasingly commonplace–from cafes, shops, hotels, and some cities even offer free WiFi in some defined public spaces.
Active Volcano Alert: Popocatepetl is currently semi-active, although recent volcanic activity has settled down again. However the State of Puebla and in particular the immediate areas surrounding the volcano are on yellow alert. The city of Puebla, and Mexico City itself are not under immediate threat and it is quite safe to travel to both places. Constant monitoring of volcanic activity takes place, and if the situation changes, notice will be given.
Puebla is the home of Talavera ceramic-ware, and you can buy a selection of items including colorful tiles, crockery and dinnerware made from this hard-wearing (and “unbreakable”) ceramic craft. The ceramic ware is not inexpensive anywhere, but Puebla is the best place to buy it, as it is among the least expensive of the places in Mexico that sells it. While you are here, be sure to savor Mole Poblano, a rich, dark savory sauce made with chocolate, bananas and spices. It’s traditionally served over chicken accompanied with Arroz a la Mexicana–delicious.
Puebla enjoys year-round, spring-like weather. The climate is ideal for taking part in a variety of outdoor sports and activities and for taking in the local culture, architecture and scenery. Rains are seldom a feature here; when they do come they tend to be during the months of April thru November, but as with most monsoon areas, the rains tend to be fierce and brief in the late afternoon, leaving the evenings dry and cooled off. You may need a wool pullover for cooler mornings and evenings, especially in the winter months.
Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico
The post Experience Puebla first appeared on Mexperience.]]>Just six miles west of the colonial city of Puebla is one of Mexico’s historically important colonial towns: Cholula.
Cholula is best known for its archaeology park, which is host to Mexico’s largest pyramid—Pyramide Tepanapa. It’s also the world’s largest pyramid by volume; bigger in that sense than the Great Pyramid of Cheops in Egypt.
At its zenith, Cholula was the second largest city in the land after Tenochtitlan. It is thought to have been an important religious and cultural center at the time. The city fell to the Olmecs sometime around 600 AD, and again to the Toltecs about three hundred years later. By the time Hernan Cortes arrived during the early part of the 16th century, the city was under heavy influence of the Aztecs.
Hernán Cortés visited Cholula at the request of Montezuma, but the invitation was part of plan to ambush him. However, the nearby Tlaxacalans—who had befriended Cortes and who themselves were no friend to the Aztecs—tipped him off, allowing the Spaniards to arrive prepared. Cholulans paid dearly for conspiring with Montezuma: Cortes ordered a massacre of their people and that their pyramids be destroyed and churches built in their place.
So the legend goes, Cortes ordered the construction of 365 churches in Cholula—one for each day of the year. In actual fact, the city has about 40—a considerable number in relation to the size of the town’s population. One of the city’s most popular events is the Concert of Church Bells which takes place here in November. See Local Events for details.
Cholula is organized into two distinct areas: San Pedro Cholula and San Andres Cholula. San Pedro Cholula is where the main churches, museums and archaeological park are situated; San Andres Cholula is the town’s night life area, which is particularly popular with students as a campus of Puebla’s State University is also situated there.
Although Cholula is an easy day trip from Puebla, it’s worth considering using Cholula as a base to explore the area while you’re in the region and to visit the fascinating nearby villages of Tonantzintla and Acatepec. See Key Attractions for details.
There is another important benefit to be enjoyed by staying overnight in Cholula: the majestic volcanoes—Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl—are best viewed early in the morning, before the heat of of the day creates mist and blocks a clear view of these inspiring mountain volcanoes.
The Zocalo, or main plaza, in Cholula provides a focal point for the town; as well as being Cholula’s principal meeting place, it’s also host to a number of restaurants, cafes, and small stores situated behind the arches of the Municipal Palace facing the main plaza.
According to legend, Hernan Cortes ordered one church to be built in Cholula for every day of the year; in actual fact the city is host to about 40, a considerable number in relation to the size of the town’s population. The Ex Convento de San Gabriel, along the east side of the main Plaza, is a major landmark inside a walled garden hosting three churches: Capilla de Tercera Orden, Capilla Real and Templo de San Gabriel.
One of Cholula’s most famous (well attended) events is the annual concert of church bells held in November each year (exact dates vary). The city lights are all turned off, and townspeople carry candles to the center of town to gather in communion and enjoy the music of the bells.
Cholula’s ‘claim to fame’ on the world archaeology map, is that its archaeology park, known simply as “Zona Arqueologica de Cholula” is host to the world’s largest pyramid—by volume. The Piramide Tepanapa, or ‘Great Pyramid of Cholula’, is the widest pyramid ever built. In its hey-day it measured 1,476 feet across and 213 feet high; thus by volume it is larger than Ceops in Egypt. The Spanish built a church on top the pyramid, the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios; it’s unclear whether the Spaniards were aware at the time that a pyramid existed underneath the grassy mound.
Entrance to the park begins with a walk through a 1,200 foot length of tunnel through the Great Pyramid. Some areas of the Great Pyramid have been excavated and a small proportion of the extensive tunnels which burrow through the pyramid structure are open to visitors; they are best experienced as part of a guided tour. Archaeologists dug around five miles of tunnels to explore the structure which is made up up several pyramids built on top of one another, although most of the tunnels are not open to the public.
The ancient city’s main Plaza, Patio de los Altares, may also be seen on the south side of the archaeology park. The small museum, across the way from the entrance, was opened in 1971 and shows an excellent cut-out model of the pyramid and a reconstruction of the ancient site as well as artifacts recovered from the excavations at the archaeology site.
A walk up to the church, at the top of the pyramid, rewards you with neoclassic architecture and good views of the city, the Valley of Puebla, and of the volcanoes — although you’ll need to attend the area in the morning for the best views of the volcanic mountains.
Mexico’s two most famous volcanoes— Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl— tower over the region south of Mexico City and particularly so over Cholula. Afternoon mists usually block a clear view of the volcanoes, so it’s important to be in Cholula in the early morning to enjoy the best views and get the best pictures.
Popocatepetl (wiki) known locally as “Popo”, is Mexico’s second highest peak, towering some 5,426 meters (17,800 feet) above sea level. Pico de Orizaba (wiki) Mexico’s highest mountain, is just a couple of hundred meters taller. You can also see Pico de Orizaba from Cholula. Popocatepetl is Mexico’s most active volcano. The last major eruption, which occurred in 1947, began the present cycle of volcanic activity inside the mountain.
Iztaccihuatl (wiki) is a dormant volcano, is linked to Popo on the north side and has four peaks; the highest of which towers some 5,230 meters (17,150 feet) above sea level. The shape of the peaks resemble a female figure lying down (for an explanation of the Legend of Popo and Izta, see below). Iztaccihuatl almost always has snow at her peaks.
Both Popo and Izta mountains may be seen from Mexico City, but rarely these days as the capital’s air pollution block a clear view most of the time. The mountains are situated just 45 nautical miles from the nation’s capital and, on the occasional clear day—for example, during a windy day in springtime, or shortly after the rainy season in late October or early November—the sheer majesty of these fine volcanoes may be enjoyed with a clear view from the capital. Cholula is the ideal place to enjoy clear views of both these volcanic mountains all year.
The Legend of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl – Variations on the legend have been told through the years. According to one Aztec Legend, Popo was a great warrior who loved Izta. He went off to war and when Izta heard false news of Popo’s fall in battle, she died of a broken heart. When Popo returned to find his love gone, he vowed to always watch over and defend her. The shape of Iztaccihuatl mountain is that of a ‘sleeping woman’. It is also said locally, that when “trouble is brewing in the world”, Popo becomes active.
Cholula offers a number of museums and cultural centers for visitors.
Franciscan Library – This building, situated in the grounds of the Ex Convento de San Gabriel, has been beautifully restored and stocks some 24,000 tomes of public works dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. The works principally cover the topics of religion, theology, philosophy and fine art; they are published predominantly in Latin and old Spanish. Website: http://biblio.udlap.mx/franciscana/
Museo del Caballero Aguila – For something different and unique, visit this museum which features a walking tour of the history of Cholula, said to the be longest continually occupied residence in North America, from pre-Hispanic times to the present-day.
Casa de la Cultura – Cholula’s Cultural Center features temporary exhibits and workshops covering a range of cultural themes including art, music, theater, paintings, etc.
Along Calle Morelos, you can enjoy a range of art and craft shops selling locally produced works as well as the regions famous confectionery, made from natural fruit paste. The craft works on offer include ceramic tableware, red clay pottery, wrought iron-works, locally produced fireworks, blown glass works, cotton textile goods and wood sculptures.
Like all Mexican towns and cities, Cholula has an excellent assortment of lively and charismatic markets. Most of the local people here shop regularly at the main market in town, just two blocks from the main plaza on Calle Morelos. The market building houses a panoply of stalls selling all manner of goods and chattels, from fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and spices, to leather goods, toys, crafts, flowers, prepared foods (to eat in or take away), home wares, hardware and electrical goods. The market gets going at at around 10 am daily and is open ’till late. It’s well worth a visit, if only to enjoy the feel and atmosphere and scents of a genuine Mexican market in action.
East of San Pedro Cholula, behind the archaeology park, is San Andres Cholula. This side of the city is host to a campus of Puebla’s Universidad de las Americas and is the place to go if you are looking for vibrant (and student oriented) night-life in Cholula. If you don’t go to the “other” side of the town, you could spend a visit in Cholula and never know this ‘student city’ was there. San Andres Cholula is also a place where an enormous number of shipping containers are stored; so many that an area of the district is known as “Container City”. Some foreign visitors purposefully visit the area to see this man-made curiosity and take pictures.
One of the “must see, must do” local tours from Cholula is to visit the nearby villages of Tonantzintla and Acatepec. The tour is known as the Ruta Franciscana and takes in the two villages as well as the magnificent churches here. They are best experienced with the help of a local tour guide to ensure you get the most of out of your visit and especially to understand the culture and history of these places. Most hotels offer package tours which begin early in the morning and return you to Cholula later in the day.
By Air – The nearest airport is situated in Puebla. The road journey from the airport to Cholula lasts about 20 minutes. To get to Cholula from the airport, buy a ticket from the authorized taxi booth or take a bus to Puebla and change there for a second local bus to Cholula. You can also arrange a shuttle to pick you up from the airport and take you to your hotel in Cholula (see Airport Transfers below). For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.
By Bus – You can take a first-class bus from Mexico City’s eastern bus terminal to the city of Puebla and, from there, get another bus (or a local cab) for the fifteen minute drive to Cholula. Also see the Mexperience guide to Traveling by Bus in Mexico.
By Car – To drive to Cholula from Mexico City, take Highway 150D South, or from Veracruz, 150D west. From Puebla, follow the signs to the Cholula, which is situated about six miles west of the city of Puebla. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads here on Mexperience.
Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico.
Taxis – Taxis in most of Mexico’s colonial towns and cities are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico, in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a price with the driver. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico.
Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.
Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines are found in the areas around the main plaza (Zocalo). During business hours, they and the local Casas de Cambio will buy traveler’s checks and cash from you as well. For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.
Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.
Viewing the Volcanoes: If you want the best views, we recommend you stay overnight in Cholula and see the volcanoes at sunrise (as the sun rises it illuminates the snow capped peaks beautifully) and again later in the morning (after breakfast) around 10 a.m. From around 11 a.m. onward, mists develop and the view across to the majestic volcanic mountains which overlook the region, and Cholula in particular, begin to obscure the view.
Internet Access: Internet cafes can be easily found in towns and cities across Mexico and WiFi is increasingly commonplace–from cafes, shops, hotels, and some cities even offer free WiFi in some defined public spaces.
See Also: Finding WiFi Internet Access in Mexico
Active Volcano Alert: Popocatepetl is currently semi-active, although recent volcanic activity has settled down again. However the State of Puebla and in particular the immediate areas surrounding the volcano are on yellow alert. There is no immediate threat and it is quite safe to travel to both Puebla, Cholula and environs. Constant monitoring of volcanic activity takes place by Mexico’s geological society, and if the situation changes, plenty of notice will be given.
The state of Puebla is the home of Talavera ceramic-ware, and you can buy a selection of items including colorful tiles, crockery and dinnerware made from this hard-wearing (and “unbreakable”) ceramic craft. The ceramic ware is not inexpensive anywhere, but Puebla and Cholula is the best place to buy it, as it is among the least expensive of the places in Mexico that sells it.
The markets here are a real treat. The city’s principal market, situated in a covered stone building, proffers an opportunity to browse an authentic Mexican market selling everything from fresh foods, spices, local arts and crafts and curios. See Key Attractions, above, for details.
On Calle Morelos, you’ll also find an ample range of art and crafts stores. See Crafts works and Local Confectionery in Key Attractions, above.
Cholula enjoys year-round, spring-like weather. The climate is ideal for taking part in a variety of outdoor sports and activities and for taking in the local culture, architecture and scenery. Rains are seldom a feature here; when they do come they tend to be during the months of April thru November, but as with most monsoon areas, the rains tend to be fierce and brief in the late afternoon, leaving the evenings dry and cooled off. You may need a warm pullover for cooler mornings and evenings, especially in the winter months.
Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico
The post Experience Cholula first appeared on Mexperience.]]>When I arrived in Puebla in August 2007 to study Spanish, I’d planned to stay for four months. Eight years later, I’m still here, happily, with no plans to leave anytime soon. I traded-in my tourist visa for a resident permit and even started consulting for the state.
I suppose that makes me an expat, but I dislike the term, because it suggests that I’ve been banished or exiled from my native country, or given up my allegiance to it, surrendering my U.S. passport in some dramatic act of political defiance. I’ll admit there are moments when the latter seems awfully attractive, but in reality nothing could be further from the truth. I love the United States. I love Mexico. And, in an era of globalism in which we are increasingly interdependent, I cannot imagine ever choosing one side of the border over the other. So, I call myself a foreign resident and leave it at that.
I decided to live in Puebla for many reasons, but mostly because the city is so authentically itself. There is no other place in Mexico quite like it: Its Colonial aesthetic, its urban attitude, its diverse cultural landscape, its natural beauty, and its amazing cuisine (hello, mole) are all so proudly and profoundly poblano that they set the city apart from everywhere else.
Puebla is a city of contrasts, which I find incredibly alluring. For instance:
Although Puebla is a major metropolis (Mexico’s fourth-largest, with some 1.5 million residents), it doesn’t feel like one. The capital city has the characteristics of a safe, suburban town: Shop owners tend to be friendly. Taxi drivers generally aren’t scary. Many restaurants close early on weeknights. The city’s main square, flanked by cobblestone streets and dotted with shade trees, is picturesque and filled with families on the weekends. An abundance of historic buildings, many of which were erected by Spanish settlers in the 16th and 17th centuries, give the entire urban core a surprisingly quaint feel, and quite a few have been preserved or restored to their original splendor. A stroll around downtown can take you back in time.
Although it’s nearly 500 years old, Puebla offers the kinds of modern amenities that foreign residents typically seek: A mild year-round climate. Affordable housing and medical care. Private schools and major universities. Airport access. Ample shopping opportunities, including big-box retailers. Puebla ranks among the 150 richest cities in the world and, unlike most areas of Mexico, has a sizable middle class. This means I can find everything from rock-bottom prices on local services (150 pesos per week for housecleaning) to completely out-of-my-league prices on imported luxury goods (5,000 pesos for a Coach purse).
Although many locals understand English, relatively few speak it with confidence, making Puebla an ideal place to learn Spanish. Foreigners here have ample opportunity to practice newly acquired linguistic skills — and become better global citizens in the process. Even if your vocabulary, grammar, or pronunciation isn’t perfect, any attempts to habla español are appreciated.
Last, but not least, there’s the food. Forget heaping plates of beans, rice, cheese, and whatever else you thought you knew about Mexican cuisine. Puebla’s restaurateurs serve up a impressive array of regional deliciousness, from classic staples like tinga (a chipotle-laced chicken stew) to exotic seasonal specialties like escamoles (ant eggs). The street fare is excellent, too, whether you bite into a taco árabe (shawarma-style pork on flatbread) or a real chalupa (fried corn tortilla topped with salsa, onions, and shredded meat).
I often wonder why more foreigners haven’t discovered Puebla. They’re totally missing out.
Rebecca Smith Hurd, founder of the travel blog AllAboutPuebla, works as a freelance writer and editor for U.S. clients, and as an adviser to the state of Puebla’s international affairs office.
The post What Keeps Me in Mexico? The Enchanting City of Puebla first appeared on Mexperience.]]>INEGI, as the institute is known, has a custom of coming up with marriage statistics on Valentine’s day, education data on Teachers Day, birth and death rates on Day of the Dead, and a host of other trivia for the innumerable World days and International days that dot the international calendar.
September is Mexico’s Mes de la Patria when the country celebrates its independence from Spain and the historical characters who helped bring it about, and in September 2014 the usually conventional institute outdid itself in creativity by publishing statistics on the number of streets in the country that are named after the different national heroes and key dates in the nation’s history.
Some of the results are not so surprising: Miguel Hidalgo, or just Hidalgo, known as Father of the Homeland, is the most common name for streets nationwide, with more than 14,000 currently in existence. He is followed by revolutionary hero Emiliano Zapata. So far so good.
Perhaps less expected is that Cinco de Mayo, the date that marks the 1862 victory over the French at the Battle of Puebla, is more common than 16 de Septiembre, Mexico’s Independence Day. The irony is that Cinco de Mayo is more celebrated by Mexicans in the U.S., where many apparently confuse the date with Mexico’s Independence (could it be that it’s more similar in sound to Fourth of July?).
Other popular street names include Benito Juárez, Francisco I. Madero, and Lázaro Cárdenas.
The list with number of streets–and even a breakdown of street name by States–can be found by searching INEGI’s website
The post Famous Street Names in Mexico first appeared on Mexperience.]]>