Celebrating the continuity of life

Far from being a morbid event, Day of the Dead emphasizes remembrance of past lives and celebration of the continuity of life.

Day of the Dead is one of the most passionately celebrated events throughout Mexico, and especially so in smaller provincial towns and cities, although the places to be on Day of the Dead are the colonial town of Pátzcuaro (near Morelia) and Oaxaca City.

Plan your accommodations in advance

Hotels in Pátzcuaro tend to book-up during the summer for this event (some charismatic hotels are booked a year or more in advance), but late availability can sometimes be sought.

Hotel availability in Oaxaca is generally easier to come by (in part because there are more hotel rooms in Oaxaca), although most of the centrally-located hotels will book up early, leaving late-bookers to choose from the remaining rooms further outside of the historic center, or in nearby towns.

Alternative accommodations to hotels, offered by shared rentals in people’s homes, has added to the choice and supply of accommodations in Pátzcuaro as well as Oaxaca, which is especially useful for popular dates like Day of the Dead, although you can expect rates to be higher you might have to stay in a nearby town or village and travel in to the center of Pátzcuaro or Oaxaca for the events.

Planning your transportation

We recommend you plan your transportation options as flights and roads to Pátzcuaro get busy around dates leading up to and soon after Day of the Dead.

Getting to Pátzcuaro for Day of the Dead

The ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro is situated in the state of Michoacán, in the mountains west of Mexico City.

By air: If you’re planning to visit Pátzcuaro, the city of Morelia has an international airport with flights from Mexico City and various cities in the US.  Check FlightConnections for current routes.  The airport is about an hour’s drive by road from Pátzcuaro.

By bus: Morelia and Pátzcuaro can also be reached by luxury bus from Mexico City; the bus journey time is 5-6 hours.  Buses to Morelia depart from the capital’s eastern and northern bus terminals.

Driving: If you’re driving to Pátzcuaro, tolled highways 15D and 14D will take about 4-4.5 hours to drive from Mexico City, depending on traffic.

Getting to Oaxaca City for Day of the Dead

The capital city of Oaxaca is situated in southern Mexico, about 285 miles south of Mexico City.

By air: Oaxaca City is served by an international airport with flights from Mexico City and various cities in the US.  Check FlightConnections for current routes.  The airport is about a 30 minute drive by road from the center of Oaxaca City.

By Bus: Oaxaca City can reached by luxury bus from Mexico City; the bus journey time is 5-6 hours.  Buses to Oaxaca City depart from the capital’s western and southern bus terminals.

Driving: If you’re driving to Oaxaca City, tolled highways 150D and 135D will take about 4-4.5 hours to drive from Mexico City, depending on traffic.

Learn more about Day of the Dead in Mexico

We publish guides and articles to help you discover more about Day of the Dead in Mexico, as well as Pátzcuro and Oaxaca City.

• Articles to discover Day of the Dead in Mexico
• Celebrating life on Day of the Dead
• Meet the elegant Catrinas
• Altars and offerings for Day of the Dead
• Delicious bread and hot chocolate traditions
• The iconic flower synonymous with Day of the Dead
• Children’s Calaverita traditions
• Guides to Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca City

The sweeping landscape of Mexico’s central highlands (also known as the Mexican Altiplano) is home to some of the country’s most picturesque and agreeable colonial towns and cities which offer an abundance of character and culture—and the benefits of mountain living.

The benefits of mountain living in Mexico

Living at elevation —typically, Mexico’s inland colonial towns and cities are situated at elevations of at least 4,000 feet above sea level— offers several benefits:

Ideal climates

Many places situated at elevation in Mexico offer the benefit of year-round temperate, low-humidity, climates created by a combination of the locations’ latitude and an average elevation around 6,000 feet above sea level which make it a pleasure to live and be outdoors, and an ideal location to enjoy active outdoor activities.

Enjoy plenty of daylight all-year

Year-round and especially during the winter, you benefit from at least ten hours of daylight every day of the year, with no shortage of daylight hours in the winter, and you also enjoy extended light into the evenings during the late spring and summer months.  You can learn about climates through the seasons in Mexico here on Mexperience.

Fresh highland air and breathtaking views

Enjoy crisp, fresh, mountain air which complements the magnificent views from local vantage points, and elevations that can aid your good health and general well-being without being too high so as to become uncomfortable.

Access to good local infrastructure and amenities

Many of Mexico’s popular colonial highland towns and cities offer provincial living with plenty of local fresh food and produce markets, (much of it grown locally), independent shops and boutique traders, with accessibility to popular big-brand stores, outlets, and supermarkets as well as specialized stores offering foods and homewares foreign residents often seek out when living here. Most colonial cities also have adequate-to-excellent healthcare facilities locally; in smaller towns, more extensive facilities are available in larger nearby cities.

Well-connected to transport links

You’ll discover that the highland towns are well connected by modern roads, most are serviced by frequent intercity bus services, and some also have airports nearby. High-speed internet access is available in your home, as well as wireless data over advanced mobile networks which form part of Mexico’s extensive communications infrastructure.

Integrate into genuine local communities

Many of the colonial towns and cities offer you the opportunity to participate and integrate in local communities.  Here you can discover authentic neighborhoods and real local community spirit, and if you choose to, you can integrate with local lifestyles and community groups, and forge long-term friendships.

Considerations for mountain living in Mexico

Mountain living isn’t for everyone.  Some people yearn to be near the ocean with year-round warmth, whereas highland towns tend to be cooler—and may even get cold at times during the winter months.  A very small number of people find that they can’t adjust to living at higher elevations, while others find the mountain towns too remote, rural, or provincial for their lifestyle preferences or intentions.

If you’re unsure, visit for an extended stay

An ideal way to determine if mountain life in Mexico will suit you is to invest in a trial period —perhaps six months to a year— and see how you respond to the experience.  When you take the time to explore, you’ll discover thriving communities where, when you’re prepared to integrate, local people will come to know and greet you by name, you’ll cultivate appreciable relationships, you’ll give and receive value as you trade at the local markets through transactions which feel human and personal… and over time, you become the community you seek.

When you look with care you’ll also find the very best of Mexico in these places—people, culture, climate, food, amenities, and real local communities. For some, Mexico’s highland towns and cities become exceptionally special places to live.

Choosing between urban and (semi) rural settings

Other than Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Monterrey, Mexico’s highland towns and cities are situated in provincial (rural or semi-rural) settings and we recommend your consider whether living in the Mexican countryside would suit you, as well as giving careful thought to your lifestyle needs as a whole as you short-list potential places to live instead of looking at certain aspects in isolation.

As with other places you may consider moving to in Mexico, you’ll need to plan and prepare for your new lifestyle, you might need to acclimatize to the higher elevation, and you’ll need to be prepared to forge your own story here. Hundreds of thousands of foreign residents enjoy a good life in Mexico; with some considered choices and forward planning, you could as well.

Explore highland towns and cities in Mexico

Here are some of the more popular colonial towns and cities foreign residents have settled in, as well as some which are less well-known and gaining attention in recent times.

Mexico’s colonial heartland

Querétaro, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende for traditional colonial highland cities; Aguascalientes for a more contemporary living lifestyle; and Zacatecas if you’re seeking a mountain city off-the-beaten-track and on the edge of a mountain frontier.

South-central highlands

Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán, and Puebla.  These traditional provincial highland places are situated conveniently close to Mexico City and yet are far enough removed from the congestion of the capital to enjoy a genuine provincial atmosphere and feel.  For a more rustic option off-the-beaten track in this area, consider Taxco.

In the mountains west of Mexico City

The highland lakeside towns of Chapala, and Ajijic are home to the largest community of foreign residents in Mexico; the city of Morelia offers old-world colonial elegance, and the ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro offers an attractive blend of colonial indigenous cultures amidst an intimate colonial setting. If you’re seeking an urban lifestyle at elevation, Guadalajara offers vibrancy, culture, and all the benefits of a large metropolitan city, and is close to Ajijic, Chapala, and Jocotepec—small towns settled along the northern shoreline of Lake Chapala and home to tens of thousands of foreign residents, most from the US and Canada.

Further south, to Oaxaca and Chiapas

Oaxaca City remains one of the most authentic and cultured colonial cities in Mexico; and further south, in the breath-taking state of Chiapas, you’ll find the highland mountain town of San Cristobal de las Casas—somewhat off-the-beaten-track and close to the traditional indigenous mountain communities of San Juan Chamula and Zinacatán.

Discover more places to live in Mexico

Discover interesting and charming locations to live, work or retire in Mexico, and articles with helpful insights about choosing a place to settle here.

Resources for Living & Lifestyle in Mexico

Mexperience offers you a comprehensive online resource of information and local knowledge to help you discover Mexico, explore choices, find opportunities and plan a new life in Mexico.  Our resources include:

• Detailed knowledge about planning a move in Mexico
• Insightful articles about living and lifestyle in Mexico
• Detailed insights about retirement in Mexico
• Practical insights for planning your Mexico lifestyle
• A regular Mexico Newsletter you can subscribe to for free

Set in the forested mountains of Mexico’s western highlands, and situated on the southwestern shore of lake Pátzcuaro, this ancient highland settlement carries important historical and cultural roots, and is today a focal point for visitors —and, increasingly— foreign residents coming to this region. Offering a fascinating mix of colonial and indigenous traditions, the town is well connected to the state capital by road and offers unique lifestyle opportunities for people seeking to live in a rural setting amidst traditional local communities.

Living in Patzcuaro

Pátzcuaro (“Pahtz-Kuah-Ro”) is a charming town with a mixed colonial and indigenous feel, located about 45 minutes by road from Morelia, the state capital of Michoacán. Michoacán’s people are some of the friendliest and most welcoming in Mexico.

Since the turn of the century, an increasing number of foreign visitors have been discovering the town’s charm and ambiance, driven in part by its popularity as a base for visiting the Monarch Butterflies, and also Pátzcuaro’s long-standing  reputation as being one of the top places in Mexico to experience Day of the Dead festivities.

Some of those visitors are returning here not only during the holidays, but also for extended stays, attracted by the town’s unusual charms and allure, to explore options for living and retirement off the beaten path and away from the high density of foreign residents that is often characteristic of the popular and established enclaves.

The city of Morelia, some 40km (25 miles) away, is an “aristocratic colonial city,”‘ whereas Pátzcuaro is an authentic colonial town which remains true to its indigenous Purépecha heritage.

The town has successfully blended its indigenous and colonial roots, creating a backdrop that provides a fascinating fusion of culture and social tapestries amidst an authentic and quite charming rural setting. In doing so, it provides an attractive hub for visitors to explore the town and nearby attractions, and also offers one of the most unusual and unique rural communities in which to live in Mexico.

The historic central area of Pátzcuaro, and its immediate surroundings, are the most attractive and often sough-after areas to live in. Picturesque colonial buildings and mansions featuring colorful courtyards with shaded terraces and nooks are built around the fine and elegant main square, the Plaza de Quiroga (also called the Plaza Grande) as well as a smaller, but no less attractive Plaza de Gertrudis Bocanegra—known locally as the Plaza Chica.

Highland mountain town with a serene environment

Patzcuaro is a quiet, low-key town set in the western highlands of Mexico, some four-and-a-half hours by road from two of Mexico’s biggest cities: Guadalajara and Mexico City.

The closest largest city is Morelia, the capital of Michoacán, and the place where most of the foreign residents living in Pátzcuaro go to buy foods, goods and services that are not available in Pátzcuaro.

Artists, writers, sculptors and those seeking peace and tranquility, as well as magnificent natural environments to be in, find Pátzcuaro suits their needs perfectly. Here, they find themselves away from the madding crowd yet close enough to access modern conveniences with efficient road connections, and an international airport about 90 minute away, offering  direct flights to Mexico City and selected airports in the United States.

Although it is a small, semi-remote, mountain town, Patzcuaro offers reliable utilities including high-speed internet connections via fixed phone line or cable. If you want to live more remotely, satellite internet is readily available in the region.

Rural living and lifestyles in the heart of the Purépecha region

Patzcuaro and its nearly lakeside villages are one the country’s underexplored areas by foreigners seeking places to live in Mexico.

This ancient highland town offers residents an authentic character and charm, clean and crisp mountain air, surrounded by forests and lakes often framed by azure-blue skies and set against the backdrop an unmistakably rural environment.

For potential foreign residents seeking a place to live in Mexico, Pátzcuaro offers an opportunity to live and integrate within an authentic Mexican town; one that two decades ago was never on the radar of those seeking living places in Mexico, and which today is being discovered and settled by people who want to live in a mountain environment, relative close enough to modern amenities and far enough away from the commercialism that tends to engulf them.

The current density of foreign residents living in Pátzcuaro and its surrounding villages is low, and growing slowly. Future growth in foreign residency in the area will likely be propelled by the picturesque and charming facets of Pátzcuaro’s character, coupled with a growing interest in rural lifestyles. This rural region is not for everyone—as we have remarked elsewhere, rural living in Mexico is different and carries challenges along with its charms.  If you’re not familiar with the area, a period of home rental to begin discovering its charms and compromises will be essential.

Cost of Living in Pátzcauro

The cost of living in Mexico is typically lower than it is the USA, Canada and Europe, although precise costs depend upon where you live and your lifestyle choices.

Living or retiring in the Pátzcuaro area is more affordable than the more popular expat enclaves; however, living costs have been increasing in this region and rents and property purchase prices have risen significantly over the last decade.

There are a couple of “mini-mart” supermarkets in Pátzcuaro offering an adequate range of everyday goods, and dozens of small, independently-owned stores and specialist food outlets.

There is a daily street market selling a plentiful supply of fresh fruits and vegetables, meats and poultry as well spices, condiments, and other everyday household foodstuffs.  The market also has a cooked foods section, where you can purchase food to take away or eat at the market stall.

To access a wider assortment of goods and services, including large supermarkets, department stores, and specialist retailers that stock imported foods and goods which are not easily found in Mexico, you will need to travel to the city of Morelia.

Real Estate in Pátzcuaro & environs

A wave of foreign buyers who discovered the town during the early years of the 2000’s created a property price boom in Pátzcuaro—funded mostly by equity they harvested from property inflation in their home countries.

This entire area is primarily an agricultural community that does not supply jobs or earnings which realistically support high property prices or rentals, and so it is the influx of outside investment —particularly wealthy Mexicans seeking countryside homes, and retirees and foreigners seeking a rural home in Mexico— that has driven market prices in recent years.

The historic center of Pátzcuaro remains the most popular area of the town to live in, and as well as being sought-after it’s also the most expensive. Some of the old colonial properties have been restored to their former glory and offer the charms of an bygone era with the amenities of the present-day comforts.

The question of whether to buy something ready to move into or restore an old property is moot, and ultimately a personal choice.

Some foreign expats who move to Pátzcuaro seek to purchase land upon which to to build a residential home. There is plenty of land for sale around Pátzcuaro, and also in the villages and hamlets that surround the lake. However, the days of bargain land prices appear to be over—even here in one of Mexico’s most rural settings.

The location provides a buying opportunity for people who want to make a long term commitment to the area.  Real estate markets in rural Mexico are considerably less liquid (which means that sales turnover is lower and property typically takes much longer to sell than in more popular urban places) so an investment here requires patient capital.

The most traded types of property in the area include land (in the outlying areas of Pátzcuaro town and in the lakeside villages), derelict colonial properties requiring total restoration, older colonial properties requiring some restoration, fully restored colonial properties, and relatively new-build homes in contemporary residential neighborhoods dotted around the town outside of the historical center.

The more desirable properties are those situated on the town’s slopes, offering views across quaint red-tiled roofs, and the lakeside panoramas beyond; as well as colonial properties situated inside the historic center of town which forsake the views in lieu of the convenience of being situated in the heart of this beautifully-kept historic district.

Property is available for sale on some of Lake Pátzcuaro’s islands, most notably, Janitzio, but very few buyers seek this degree of isolation and most foreign residents live choose to live in Pátzcuaro town or one of the lakeside villages.

Our article about assessing house prices in Mexico gives further insights and connections to resources that will help you to gauge property values.

Home rental market in Pátzcuaro

Regardless of where you are planning to live in Mexico, we recommend you rent first to get a feel for the location, unless you are already familiar with it, its local communities, and the local year-round environment.

Finding a long-term house rental in Pátzcuaro can be challenging. Most rentals are vacation rentals, which tend to offer ‘turn-key’ homes, fully furnished and accessorized, primarily for short-term vacation renters—with rental rates that reflect that.

Locally-owned, often simply-appointed, houses offer the lowest rents. To find them, you can check property portals online, but more likely you’ll need to contact a local realty agent, or find other connections locally.

Reasonable rent rates can be sought if you want to rent here long-term and not buy, but you’ll need to make compromises. Talking to locals and cultivating helpful local contacts is a good way of finding the most affordable —and workable— housing for rent.

If you’re on a tight budget, you might find simpler accommodations in the area, of the type that you’ll need to furnish and spruce up at your own expense, but if you’re seeking a turn-key comfortable and efficient dwelling space for rent, you’ll need to search diligently and be prepared to pay a premium for it.

Note about Day of the Dead: Rental prices for vacation homes and short term rentals soar during Day of the Dead week—the weekends before, during, and after Oct 31 through Nov 2 each year.  Pátzcuaro is one of the most visited towns in Mexico during this time; local hotels and Airbnb accommodations are after booked many months in advance, so advance planning is essential.

Our article about assessing house prices in Mexico gives further insights and connections to resources that will help you to gauge property values, including home rentals.

Healthcare services in Pátzcuaro

In addition to Mexico’s state sponsored healthcare provided via the country’s national health service IMSS, good quality healthcare services offered through small private clinics with US-style healthcare services.  For larger clinics and hospitals you will need to go to Morelia.

Hospitals/Clinics: There are some small hospitals and clinics run by Mexico’s IMSS healthcare program, including a maternity ward.  Small private clinics that can deal with minor and moderate situations as well as private general doctor practices are also available.

Doctors: Private doctors can be consulted in town, and many will make house calls, too. Some might speak some English, but you ought to speak Spanish or take an interpreter with you on a first visit.  Doctors can refer you to local and regional (public and private) clinics, specialists, and hospitals.

Dentists: There are various dental practices in Pátzcuaro; for more complex situations you may need to visit Morelia.

Opticians: There are several optometrists available offering eye tests, treatments, frames & lenses.  For a wider selection, or more complex situations, you may need to visit Morelia.

The city of Morelia (less than an hour’s drive away) offers additional medical services and healthcare specialists if these are needed.

Local climate in Pátzcuaro

Situated at over 7,000 feet above sea-level, Pátzcuaro offers a year-round mostly temperate climate, with noticeably cooler temperatures in the fall and winter, and warm, comfortable days during the spring and summer months.

The villages and hamlets surrounding the nearby lake tend to exhibit microclimates of their own, and may be a few degrees warmer or cooler than Pátzcuaro town center, influenced by the water and prevailing climatic conditions in the wider region.

In the fall and winter months, daytime high temperatures average around 70F (21C) and nighttime lows average around 39F (4C).

In the hottest spring months, daytime high temperatures average around 80F (27C) and nighttime lows average around 50F (10C). Summer-month high temperatures are lower than the spring highs, tempered by the rainy season that typically runs from May to October each year, sometimes spilling into November.

Pátzcuaro & environs essentials

Connect to practical information and gain insights about living and lifestyle in and around Pátzcuaro, Mexico

Pátzcuaro articles and guides

Connect to more articles and guides about Pátzcuaro here on Mexperience

Nearest airport to Pátzcuaro

Pátzcuaro and lakeside villages and served by Aeropuerto Internacional General Francisco Mujica (MLM).  The airport is situated about 60 miles (98km) from the center of Pátzcuaro—about 1.5 hours by road, depending on local traffic conditions. Check FlightConnections.com for current routes.

Pátzcuaro map

Explore Pátzcuaro on Google maps

Getting around Mexico

Transportation choices in Mexico

Communications in Mexico

Stay in touch when you’re in Mexico:

• Telephony services
• Internet and WiFi services

Money and banking services in Mexico

Learn about money management and banking in Mexico

• Guide to Money and Banking Services in Mexico
• Latest articles about money and currency in Mexico

Driving in Mexico

Learn about driving and road trips in Mexico

• Driving and road trips in Mexico
• Auto insurance in Mexico

Health and safety in Mexico

Connect to articles and resources about health and safety matters in Mexico

• Safety in Mexico
• Health and safety updates

Traditionally, November 1st honors deceased children and November 2nd honors deceased adults.  Day of the Dead is celebrated passionately throughout Mexico, and especially so in smaller provincial towns and cities. November 2nd is an official Public Holiday in Mexico.

Mexico’s Day of Dead: a celebration of life

Far from being a morbid event, Day of Dead emphasizes remembrance of past lives and expresses celebration of the continuity of life.  This acknowledgement of life’s continuity has roots which go back to some of Mexico’s oldest civilizations including the Olmec, Zapotec, Maya, and Purépecha.  The Aztecs also celebrated Day of the Dead, although earlier —August— on the current calendar.

Local festivities and traditions vary from place to place, although the ofrendas are the focal point of the celebrations during the festive period.  Mexico City hosts a large and elaborate procession downtown, and provincial towns and cities hold religious processions to mark the occasion.  It’s currently fashionable for participants to have their face painted to emulate Catrinas.

Although Halloween on October 31st and Dia de los Muertos on November 1st and 2nd are strictly speaking two distinct events, in recent times the two festive dates have blended into each other illustrating how Mexico is adept at assimilating foreign things without losing its own identity—and often putting a particularly Mexican stamp on them.

La Ofrenda: an altar of remembrance

Local families will plan for Day of the Dead celebrations days, weeks, or perhaps even a whole year in advance.  A focal point of the remembrance ritual is families creating ofrendas —altars with offerings to the deceased— which are set-up in homes or public spaces like parks or plazas, and also at local cemeteries where family members are buried.

These colorful altars, which are also an art form and personal expression of love towards one’s family members now passed, are not for worshiping but instead for the purpose of remembrance and celebration of a life lived.

They are usually layered: the top tier contains a picture or pictures of the remembered deceased as well as religious statues or symbols, especially that of La Virgen Guadalupe; the second tier will contain the ofrendas: toys are usually offered for deceased children, and bottles of tequila, mezcal, or atole for deceased adults.  Personal ornaments, and/or the deceased’s favorite food or confection will also be present here, as will Pan de Muerto.  The third tier will feature lit candles, and some people add a washbasin and a towel so that the spirits of the deceased may refresh themselves upon arrival at the altar.

Every altar will feature calaveras —decorated candied skulls made from sugar— as well as the bright orange marigolds, colloquially referred to as flor de muerto (“Flower of the Dead”), one of the iconic symbols woven into Day of the Dead celebrations across Mexico.

During the celebratory period, it’s traditional for families to visit local cemeteries where their loved ones are buried, where they clean and to decorate the graves with similar offerings to those included in the home’s altar.

Catrinas: artistic symbol of Day of the Dead celebrations

The character on which La Calavera Catrina —“The elegant skull”— is based was conceived by Mexican engraver José Guadalupe Posada. The original Catrina was titled La Calavera Garbancera: in the form of an artistic etching in zinc, composed for use as political satire around 1910, intended to poke fun at a certain social class of Mexicans who the artist portrayed as having European-aristocratic aspirations; thus the Catrina’s archetypal grandiose plumed hat of a style which passed through a period of high fashion in Europe during that age. This related article explains the history and culture of Catrinas in Mexico.

Pan de Muerto and hot chocolate: the traditional treat on Day of the Dead

One of the culinary highlights of the season is Pan de Muerto —Bread of the Dead— which is a semi-sweet sugar-dusted bread made from eggs and infused with natural citrus fruit flavors.  It’s traditionally taken with hot chocolate that has been mixed with cinnamon and whisked, a pairing that creates a warming blend for enjoyment on a chilly November evening.  Learn how to enjoy Pan de Muerto in Mexico.

Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca: popular towns to celebrate, with plenty of color elsewhere too

Day of the Dead is a holiday that attracts a certain fascination for visitors from abroad, and enjoyed by foreign residents who witness the unfolding of local festivities in their adopted towns and villages each year.

Celebrations in the colonial city of Oaxaca and the ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro are particularly well attended by foreign visitors, and forward planning is vital if you want to experience Day of the Dead at either of these places.

Even if you can’t get to Oaxaca or Pátzcuaro, you’ll discover that communities across Mexico compose their own interpretations of the event to celebrate Day of the Dead, and so wherever you are in Mexico this time of year you’ll have an opportunity to experience this distinctive celebration—one of the most colorful, poignant and atmospheric Mexico offers.

The precise ceremonies, offerings, and customs for Day of the Dead celebrations vary by region and town, but the essential traditions described here are an integral part of the event which is echoed all over Mexico.

A visit to a local cemetery, where family graves are dressed with color and decorations, a local park or plaza where ofrendas have been gathered, or a glimpse into one or more of the local homes which are opened-up to visitors during this period and where the lives of those past are lovingly remembered by those present is a rewarding and worthwhile cultural experience to behold.

Learn more about Day of the Dead in Mexico

We publish guides and articles to help you discover more about Day of the Dead in Mexico, as well as Pátzcuro and Oaxaca City.

• Articles to discover Day of the Dead in Mexico
• How to plan ahead for Day of the Dead
• Celebrating life on Day of the Dead
• Meet the elegant Catrinas
• Altars and offerings for Day of the Dead
• Delicious bread and hot chocolate traditions
• The iconic flower synonymous with Day of the Dead
• Children’s Calaverita traditions
• Guides to Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca City

Place is personal, subjective, and important—and as you consider places to live in Mexico, Mexperience helps you to consider your choices and shortlist locations that may suit your lifestyle needs.

Discover places to live, work or retire in Mexico

To help you discover and explore potential places to live here, Mexperience publishes a curated list of locations to consider for living, working or retirement in Mexico—organized by popularity and notoriety and classified by the location type.

Our articles introduce you to key places where many foreign residents live now, emerging locations that are becoming increasingly popular with foreign residents, as well as those places that are less well known, or situated off-the-beaten path. We also publish a selection of detailed guides of places to live in Mexico:

The most popular places to live in Mexico

Discover locations that have for a long time, or in recent times, garnered considerable popularity with foreign residents (retirees and others) and have active communities of interest established at the location.

Emerging locations to live in Mexico

Discover locations that have, in recent years, been catching the attention of foreign residents and have fledgling or developing communities of interest present there.

Underexplored locations to live in Mexico

Discover places that do not have significant numbers of foreign residents already established and are generally ‘off-the-beaten-path’ for most foreigners considering Mexico for living and retirement. These places can offer attractions that may be of interest to some potential foreign residents and retirees seeking someplace more traditional, unusual, and with a lower concentration of foreign residents living there.

Detailed living guides

For detailed guides to selected places to live and work or retire, connect to our section with Guides to Living Places in Mexico

Most (but not all) of Mexico’s colonial cities are situated at elevations of at least 5,000 feet above sea level and if the place you choose is situated in these high lands you can expect cooler and more temperate climates year-round than you’ll experience in colonial cities which are situated at lower elevation or nearer to the coasts where temperatures soar, particularly during the late spring and through the summer months.

During late fall and throughout the winter, early mornings, evenings, and nights are cooler in colonial cities—even chilly in some higher places that may also require the warmth of a fireplace or other heating system. The spring and fall climates are close to ideal in most of Mexico’s highland colonial cities, featuring a temperate ambiance with occasional rainfalls between otherwise undisturbed sunlight, shining across crisp and deep azure-blue skies.

The late spring and summer months in Mexico’s highland colonial cities are warm and can get quite hot.  Most regions experience seasonal rains between June and October each year; these often take the form of torrential afternoon or evening downpours which cool the high summer temperatures and make the local flora radiate with color and fragrance.

Which colonial cities are people moving to?  The two big ‘expat enclaves’ of San Miguel de Allende and Ajijic/Chapala have been popular with foreign residents for decades, and their lure and appeal is still attractive to many who visit and call these places their home, full or part-time.

Foreigners researching places to live in Mexico will usually come across popular colonial locations like San Miguel de Allende, Ajijic, and Cuernavaca. Other places that are less well-known but which have have been rising in popularity in recent years include: Mérida, Puebla, Guanajuato, Querétaro, and Oaxaca. For places somewhat off-the-beaten-path, you might also consider researching San Cristobal de las Casas, and Morelia (with nearby Pátzcuaro).  If you’re seeking a colonial setting near the coast consider Mazatlán, Manzanillo, and Campeche.

With the exception of the most popular colonial towns, Mexico’s colonial settings offer (generally speaking) lower property purchase and rental prices than equivalent land and homes situated at popular Mexican beach-side towns and resorts. However, house prices in colonial cities have risen substantially in recent years and property prices across Mexico are no longer the bargain they once were.  It’s also worth keeping in mind that lesser-known colonial locations don’t tend to generate the same level of property sales turnover as the most popular locations do, so if you buy land or property away from a fashionable area, it might take longer to sell.  You can learn all about property purchase and ownership in Mexico here on Mexperience.

We recommend above all else that you take time to step back and consider your lifestyle needs and short-list locations in Mexico that serve those needs.

If you’re looking for a long-term investment and a foothold in Mexico that will provide you with a stable home, a good climate, decent access by road (some cities also have airports not far away); a lower cost of living than the US, Canada and Europe; and a place where you can be surrounded by culture and heritage, do some research here on Mexperience to learn about Mexico’s colonial cities and then go and experience a few of them in person.  You may be pleasantly surprised.

Patzcuaro (“Pahtz-Kuah-Ro”) is a charming town with a mixed colonial and indigenous feel, located just 45 minutes from Morelia, the State Capital of Michoacan.

Michoacan’s people are some of the friendliest and most welcoming in Mexico. Patzcuaro is an extremely popular domestic tourist destination during Day of the Dead, Christmas and Holy Week.

During the last decade, an increasing number of foreign visitors have discovered the town’s charm and ambiance and are returning here not only during the holidays, but also for extended stays—even retirement in Mexico.

Morelia is an aristocratic colonial city, whereas Patzcuaro is a colonial town which still remains true to its indigenous (Purepecha and Tarasco) heritage. The town has successfully blended its indigenous and colonial roots and provides an excellent hub from which to explore the other towns and villages in the area. See Around Patzcuaro, below.

The central area of Patzcuaro and its immediate surroundings are the most attractive with colonial buildings, mansions and courtyards built around the fine and elegant Plaza de Quiroga.

Bishop Vasco de Quiroga was a respected judge sent by the Catholic Church to Patzcuaro in 1536 to try Nuño de Guzman for his acts of uncompromising cruelty that devastated the indigenous communities here. Quiroga promoted education and self sufficiency in the area, helping the indigenous people to grow crops and develop their natural skills as talented craftsmen. He is the most revered historical figure in the state of Michoacan and his statue is the centerpiece of Patzcuaro’s main square.

About two miles northeast of the town’s center are the shores of Lago de Patzcuaro (Lake Patzcuaro). Lake Patzcuaro also hosts the charming island of Janitzio.

Patzcuaro can be visited as a day trip from Morelia, but it’s much better to stay for a couple of nights to get the true feel of this wonderful town and the surrounding villages.

Please note: Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week leading up to Easter), Dia de Muertos (Day of the Dead, November 1st and 2nd), Dia de Nuestra Señora de Salud (the Festival to celebrate the town’s Patron Saint on December 8), and Navidad (Christmas) are very busy here: advance accommodation bookings are essential during these times (see Local Events, below).

See Blog: Plan Ahead for Day of the Dead in Mexico

Key Attractions

Colonial Center

The main square is called La Plaza de Quiroga or La Plaza Grande and is a fine place to just sit and relax. Buy a nieve (ice-cream), gordita de nata (half-inch thick pancakes made with heavy cream and sweetened with sugar), or some ate (locally produced sweets made from fruit paste) and watch the world go by.

Most days, the central area around the plaza fills up with markets, people and street performers. A block north of the main square is La Plaza Chica or La Plaza de Gertrudis Bocanegra, named for a local heroine who was executed by firing squad for supporting Mexico’s Independence movement.

The town’s local market sets up shop at the northwest corner of La Plaza Chica every day from about 9 am to 5 pm when you can find fresh fruit, vegetables, fish and meats, as well as real herbal medicines and local art and crafts. There are also plenty of places to eat tacos, licuados (smoothies), tortas (sandwiches) and corundas (pyramid-shaped tamales).

The town’s library (Biblioteca Gertrudis) is located in the northeastern corner of La Plaza Chica and features an impressive mural by Juan O’Gorman on the back wall. If you are staying in Patzcuaro a week or more, you may want some English reading material—check out the library’s extensive English book selection that is available on loan or purchase during their occasional book sales. Next-door to the library is an ordinary artisan market that is open on weekends and some evenings.

Up the hill, east of the town center, is the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud—Patzcuaro’s Patron Saint. It’s here that Quiroga himself is buried, and the Virgin, Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Our Lady of Good Health), is said to perform miracles.

Many people pay homage to the Basilica with offerings to the Virgin. In front of the Basilica is a very reasonably priced open-air daily market with more locally-crafted souvenirs.

The Museo de Artes Populares (Popular Arts Museum) is just south of the Basilica, one block east of the main square. Some say it is the site of the first university in the Americas (1540), founded by Quiroga.

The Colegio de San Nicolas next door is a 16th century building that houses art exhibits and performances.

Possibly the most popular tourist site is the Casa de los Once Patios (House of eleven courtyards) just a couple of blocks southeast of the main square. It was originally a convent, although today it’s host to a range of quality art and craft outlets, many of which have workshops where you can witness the art being created. If you are short on time or energy, it’s worth the slightly higher prices to buy here, direct from local artists.

Lake Patzcuaro / Island of Janitzio

About two miles northeast of the town’s center are the shores of Lago de Patzcuaro (Lake Patzcuaro). Lake Patzcuaro also hosts Isla Janitzio. Frequent boats will take you from the docks of Patzcuaro (Muelle General) to the island.

The island offers visitors an opportunity to browse markets and buy from local artisans and traders. There are a number of food stalls selling charales: small fish caught in the lake and deep fried in batter; not the healthiest snack, but a unique taste for the more adventurous.

At the top of Janitzio there is a statue in honor of one of Mexico’s most revered revolutionary heroes: Jose Maria Morelos . You can climb the stairs inside the statue to see the panoramic views from the top. If you don’t like heights, you may want to give this a miss: the stairway is bi-directional, narrow in places, with only a low metal banister between you and a 150 ft drop at the top!

Please note: Isla Janitzio is often overwhelmed with tourists during weekends and especially during the Dia de Muertos holiday period. The best time to visit the island is during a week-day. If your time in Patzcuaro is limited, you will get better value by visiting some of the lakeside and artisan villages around Patzcuaro instead of the island of Janitzio (see below).

Santa Clara del Cobre

About 12 miles south of Patzcuaro is Santa Clara del Cobre (cobre means copper), which used to be a copper mining town. The mines are now closed, but copper crafting continues.

Santa Clara del Cobre is one of the “must see” villages around Patzcuaro. If you only have time to see one of the small towns around Patzcuaro on your stay in the area, consider Santa Clara.

Many of the stores in the town have workshops at the back where you can see families – three or four generations – working on the items you see for sale by hand; a true apprenticeship!

Small Towns and Villages Around Patzcuaro

Patzcuaro is the perfect base to explore this wonderful region of Mexico, which is why you should consider at least a couple of night’s stay here instead of just experiencing Patzcuaro on a day visit from Morelia.

Below is a summary of some of the villages around the lake (counterclockwise around the lake from Patzcuaro) with an asterisk (*) next to our favorites.

Tzurumutaro – Tzurumutaro is famous for its handcrafted iron patio furniture, sold outside of workshops right along the highway.

Ihuatzio – A tiny town on the banks of Lake Patzcuaro and about 10 minutes from Patzcuaro, Ihuatzio has partially restored ruins as well as beautiful nature. Its cemetery is popular but not overwhelmingly so during Dia de Muertos.

Cucuchucho – Just 5 minutes past Ihuatzio, this extremely small town’s cemetery is gorgeous and calm during Dia de Muertos.

Tzintzuntzan – Meaning “place of the humming birds,” Tzintzuntzan is only about 25 minutes from Patzcuaro and makes a great day trip. Along the main road through town, there are numerous stores selling straw goods, wood furniture and ceramics. The olive-tree lined courtyard of the Ex-Convento de San Francisco is a beautiful picnic spot and provides tranquil access to see the other Templos and the Capilla within the walls. Manuel Morales runs an exquisite ceramics workshop just past the open chapel towards the back right-hand corner of the courtyard; and across the street and past the cemetery is the entrance to the Purepecha ruins (Las Yacatas). Tzintzuntzan is very crowded during the night of Dia de Muertos so we recommend going during the day of the 1st to see locals decorating if you are in the area at this time of year.

Quiroga – The town bearing the name of Vasco de Quiroga is about 10 minutes past Tzintzuntzan. Its Sunday markets are legendary and everyday is excellent for buying arts and crafts, even if it’s not the most picturesque.

Santa Fe de La Laguna – This colonial town about 5 minutes from Quiroga has a real indigenous feel as well as a lovely plaza and church off to the right-hand side of the highway. Famous for its clay (barro) workshops, local artisans such as Nicolas Fabian are working with the government to make their town and their art more accessible to tourists.

Puacuaro – Puacuaro is about 45 minutes from Patzcuaro in either direction around the lake. Enrique and Eva Ascensio are a dynamic husband and wife team that have revitalized tule and chuspata (reeds from Lake Patzcuaro, round and flat respectively) weaving in the area. Having learned the trade from artisans in Tzintzuntzan, they have invented many new stitches and designs and are happy to give you a demonstration (and sell you their products directly). They have trained over half of the women in Puacuaro to weave reeds and support their families.

Erongaricuaro – One of the oldest settlements in the area, and about 30 minutes from Patzcuaro (clockwise aroud the lake), its claims to fame include being home to the French artist Andre Breton in the 1950’s with visits by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo also. Here you can wander the peaceful town and enjoy the Spanish style architecture.

San Francisco Uricho – This tiny unassuming town outside of Erongaricuaro makes beautiful off-white and brown traditional Michoacan pottery.

Arocutin – Perched on a hill up from Jaracuaro, Arocutin’s cemetery is a peaceful escape from the usual chaos of Dia de Muertos.

Jaracuaro – Given credit for the creation of the famous Michoacan Baile de los Viejitos (Dance of the Old Men), Jaracuaro is also famous for its sombreros which are hand-made using palm leaves.

Tocuaro – Just 20 minutes outside of Patzcuaro (clockwise around the lake), is the famous mask-making town of Tocuaro. Although a good mask may cost several hundred dollars; it will be absolutely unique.

Getting There & Around

By Air – The nearest airport to Patzcuaro is the Morelia Airport, which is about 1.5 hours away. You can fly to Morelia from the US as well as other points in Mexico including Mexico City, Guadalajara and Leon. If you fly into Morelia Airport, you will need to drive or take a cab from the airport to downtown Morelia or Patzcuaro, as there are no buses. The airport is about 45 minutes from Morelia and 1.5 hours from Patzcuaro. For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.

By Bus – There are regular local buses from Morelia to Patzcuaro (60 minutes); leaving every 10 minutes or so all day long. There are also regular buses from Uruapan (45 minutes in the opposite direction). Many first-class buses run to and from Morelia and Uruapan and there is also a first class bus direct from Mexico City’s western bus terminal to Patzcuaro and back. For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car – Driving to Patzcuaro from Morelia is easy and takes only 45 minutes on a new free highway. There is also a new toll-highway from Zihuatanejo/Ixtapa that takes about 3-4.5 hours. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience.

Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico and connect to the Mexperience Travel Center to reserve your Rental Car.

Local Buses – Local buses (called combis or colectivos) run throughout Patzcuaro and to the villages around the Lake and provide a cheap (if not always direct) way to get around the area. That said, most of Patzcuaro is accessible on foot provided that you’re not adverse to a good walk! To get to Lake Patzcuaro you can catch a cab or a local bus; the walk, though doable, is not recommended due to the traffic on the road leading to it.

Taxis – Taxis in most of Mexico’s colonial towns and cities are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico, in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a price with the driver. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico.

Local Events Calendar

Festivities in Patzcuaro are very popular events, attended by locals, nationals and foreigners alike. Booking your accommodation early during festival periods is essential.

Easter Week (Semana Santa) is very busy here as Patzcuaro fills up with visitors who come to witness the festivities, candlelit processions and the burning of an effigy of Judas in the main square on Easter Sunday evening.

Day of the Dead (Dia de Muertos, November 1-2) is the highest tourist season and many hotels are booked 6 months in advance. The Plaza Grande becomes a regional artisan market with artisans from all over the state coming for the entire week to show and sell their wares. In addition, there are cultural activities happening as early as October 28th and as late as November 3rd in Patzcuaro and the surrounding villages. During the day of November 1st, families decorate their ancestors’ graves with flowers and offerings and build beautiful altars in their homes. During the night of the 1st there is an amazing cultural performance and fair in Jaracuaro as families everywhere spend the night with the deceased in candle-lit cemeteries. See Also: Day of the Dead in Mexico

Nuestra Señora de La Salud – At the beginning of December each year, Patzcuaro celebrates its Patron Saint. The weekend is filled with processions, parties and competitions; a town fair sets up and the whole town vibrates with color, sound and atmosphere.

Posadas – Posadas, meaning “Inns,” reenact Mary and Joseph’s search for a place to stay in Bethlehem and take place on the streets of Patzcuaro from about December 16th to the 24th. Residents block traffic along their street, set up a campfire, sing the rosary, and then engage in a call and response song as Mary, Joseph, possibly a burro and everyone else go from house to house asking for a place to stay and receiving snacks instead. Some posadas culminate in a piñata party while others have developed a roasting marshmallows tradition.  See also: Posadas in Mexico

Patzcuaro Essentials

Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found in the downtown (central) area of Patzcuaro.  For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

What to Buy in Patzcuaro

You can buy good quality, locally made and hand-crafted Mexican craft work throughout the state of Michoacan, and Patzcuaro is no exception.

Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the surrounding lakeside villages where a lot of the crafts are made by hand: it will give you a full appreciation of the how the materials are worked and the crafts created. See Around Patzcuaro (above) for details of the main villages and the crafts they are known for.

Also, don’t miss the opportunity to buy some traditional Mexican confectionery which is made in this state (Michoacan) – and sold all over the Mexico. Two sweets which you should definitely try are: Chongos (made from milk, honey and cinnamon) and Ates (made from fruit paste). You can buy the local confectionery from market stalls, shops and other trading outlets in Patzcuaro.

Local Climate

The town is situated quite high up in the mountains (just under 2,200m/7,200ft) so it can get chilly in the mornings and evenings between October and April. Bring layers, including warm clothing, year-round. The rainy season runs May through September, but most days have a warm spring-like climate.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

The state of Michoacán, in western Mexico, offers some of the most outstanding landscapes in the country. The vast, often rugged, countryside is a breath-taking mix of mountains, rolling hills and valleys, forests, rivers and deep lakes. Most of the state is situated at a high altitude, and the lakes in Michoacán are some of the highest lakes in the world.

Aside from its capital city, which is colonial and regal in its style and appearance, Michoacán state is made up principally of a quilt work of small towns and villages, mostly indigenous, and often dotted around one of the many lakes.

Fishing has been a principal source of food and income for the local people here over the centuries; and the state’s symbolism is often associated with fishing: look at the reverse side of a current-day $50 peso note, and you’ll see important images relating to the state of Michoacán, including a reference to fishing.

Lake Pátzcuaro and its Villages

Lake Pátzcuaro is probably the most well-known of all the lakes, not least because of the popularity of the town after which the lake is named.

The lake supports a handful of small islands and islets—the principal one is the island of Janitzio. Today, the island gets particularly crowded with tourists at weekends and especially on Dia de Muertos festivities. You can read about Janitzio in our guide to Patzcuaro.

The villages of Lake Patzcuaro, as they are known collectively, are made up of small hamlets inhabited by local indigenous people who have remained true to their heritage and customs. Many of the people in the villages only speak Purepecha, the dominant indigenous language of the region.

Visiting Patzcuaro today offers you a unique and wonderful opportunity to visit the villages around Lake Patzcuaro.

Each village has its own specialist art or craft and you can watch as hats, masks and other crafts are created.

The art and craft works on sale make excellent, unique and beautiful gifts or souvenirs and your purchases make a direct and significant contribution to the local economy of the region. You may, in some instances, also participate in the creation of the crafts.

A tour of the villages will give you insights into the local culture as well as a an opportunity to absorb the authentic ambiance. Many of the villages also feature old colonial churches and missions, some of which date back some 400 or more years.

Guided Visits

Most of the artisans around Lake Patzcuaro speak Spanish and some even know a few words of English.

For the best experience, we recommend you take a guided tour of the lakeside villages. In addition to the language translation, you will enjoy the benefit of local knowledge which the guides have and be given an in-depth explanation of the villages and the local culture while you are there.

The Lakeside Villages

Connect to guides of the following lakeside villages:

Puacuaro – famous for reed-weaving in the Lake Patzcuaro region.

Jaracuaro – famous for dancing and hat-making

Tocuaro – famous for internationally-renowned traditional mask making.

Also Read: About Patzcuaro’s Lakeside Villages

Puacuaro is about 45 minutes from Patzcuaro in either direction around the lakeside, although it may be a bit closer driving clockwise.  There aren’t a lot of signs in Puacuaro and many of the locals speak Purepecha as their dominant language, so you may want to inquire about a guided tour.

Having learned the trade from artisans in the nearby village of Tzintzuntzan, Puacuaro has revitalized tule and chuspata reed-weaving in the Lake Patzcuaro region.

The products they make are completely hand-crafted and the reeds themselves are sourced from Lake Patzcuaro. The tule reeds are round and the chuspata reeds are flat, enabling the weavers to combine these and create a variety of ornaments, figurines and utensils.  Almost 50% of Puacuaro’s population work in reed-weaving and almost all of the weavers are women.

The reed-weavers of Puacuaro create a small income from their handicraft by selling their wares to local people and visiting tourists and your purchase makes a direct contribution to the local economy.

Browse: Puacuaro Picture Gallery

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Discover Weaving and Local Customs in Puacuaro

Although the dirt roads, wondering cattle, Purepecha women and substance farms provide more than enough photo opportunities for even a well-seasoned traveler, the real magic is hidden inside the local homes.

There you will find women weaving magnificent figurines from tule and chuspata while minding their children, cooking tortillas, cleaning the house and juggling many other tasks at the same time.

If you call ahead and make an appointment (+52 434 345-4069), you can meet husband and wife team Enrique and Eva Ascensio, who will show you some of their work and talk to you about the trade.  They do not speak any English, but are very welcoming and patient.  Eva and Enrique have personally invented many new stitches and designs and host courses to train local women.

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Local Climate

Jaracuaro’s climate is similar to nearby Patzcuaro. The village is quite high up in the mountains (just under 7,200 ft or 2,195 meters) so it can get chilly in the mornings and evenings of the cooler months between October and April; bring warm clothing with you during these months.  Most of the time, this region enjoys a warm, and at times wet, spring-like climate.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

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Also Read: About Patzcuaro’s Lakeside Villages

Tocuaro is just a 20-minute drive around the lakeside (clockwise around the Lake) from Patzcuaro, on the left hand-side of the roadway.

Although Tocuaro appears to be just another sleepy village along the road around Lake Patzcuaro, the town is home to internationally-renowned traditional mask makers.

Masks were used in pre-Hispanic times during religious ceremonies and are often used to represent people or animals and to tell stories.  After the Spanish Conquest, mask makers began to incorporate symbols and stories from the Catholic Church.

Today in Tocuaro, masks run the gamut from traditional Purepecha designs, to Christian images, to political caricatures. All of the masks are manifested from the creativity and imagination of the local mask makers who have been practicing their trade here for centuries.

Browse: Tocuaro Picture Gallery

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Fine Masks: Tocuaro’s Key Attraction

Tocuaro’s main street from the highway to the church is lined with mask making workshops; cottage-like enterprises which are run inside of the homes of local artisans. There are also a few additional workshops along the side streets.

The Horta family dominates the trade and the talent in town. Look for signs advertising mascaras, knock on the door, and then ask to see their work and/or a demonstration.

Juan Horta, considered the recent father of the trade, passed away in December of 2006, but his family continues to show his work and that of his sons. His workshop is two blocks down the main street on the left hand side.

His widow can tell you about his life as a mask-maker, the symbolism he incorporated in his work (snakes for luck, owls for wisdom, iguanas for beauty) and the struggles her sons face in continuing the trade.

Juan’s brother, Felipe, owns the first shop on the right and he and his wife are very welcoming people, although they don’t speak English. He allows tourists to take pictures, encourages people to get their hands dirty and try to do some carving, and will even offer you the chance to test this theory – that after a week of lessons, you too can be a mask maker.

A good mask currently costs several hundred dollars, so be sure to stop by an ATM in Patzcuaro before you head off. Most mask makers accept US dollars in cash, but no artisans accept credit, debit or AMEX cards or traveler’s checks.

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Local Climate

Tocuaro’s climate is similar to nearby Patzcuaro. The village is quite high up in the mountains (just under 7,200ft) so it can get chilly in the mornings and evenings of the cooler months between October and April; bring warm clothing with you during these months.  Most of the time, this region enjoys a warm, and at times wet, spring-like climate.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

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Also Read: About Patzcuaro’s Lakeside Villages

Jaracuaro is credited with the creation of the Baile de los Viejitos (Dance of the Old Men) which is a masked-dance mocking the weak (and white) conquistadors. Usually performed by children, it is danced at least once an hour by small troupes in the Plaza Grande in Patzcuaro.

Jaracuaro, which is a 25-minute drive around the lakeside (clockwise) from Patzcuaro, used to be an island, but is now a narrow peninsula whose streets were not built for cars, let alone two-way traffic.  We recommend parking your car at your first stop and then walking for the rest of your visit.

We also recommend that you take a tour of the local sombrero making facilities in town, and try on some of their products.  The hand-made hats you’ll find in this village are some of the finest in all of Mexico and are very reasonably priced.

Browse: Jaracuaro Picture Gallery

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Fine Hats and Day of the Dead in Jaracuaro

Every day of the year is a great opportunity to see traditional sombrero making.  As you head into town, bear right at the fork in the road and head towards the middle school. Park near the school (or anywhere else where you see other cars and people) and head straight up the hill on your left towards the church.

Erasmo Bautista Antonio (Tel: +52 434 542-0049) has an unmarked shop in the second or third house on your left as you head up the hill.

Erasmo gives a great tour of the entire sombrero-making process— from braiding the palm leaves, to sewing the braids together, to pressing specific designs into the hats. He and his family make a variety of types of hats—including children’s hats and high-end “Jaracuaro Sombreros”

Erasmo speaks a small amount of English (and understands quite a bit) and his daughters sing beautifully in Purepecha, the local indigenous language.

Pedro Gabriel Reyes (Tel: +52 434 542-0179) also offers tours.  His home is at the top of the hill, right before the church, on the left-hand side. Pedro speaks a bit of English and his wife makes extremely tasty corundas (pyramid-shaped tamales).

A hand-crafted sombrero can cost anywhere from $8 USD to $80 USD and is a beautiful and practical souvenir.

Pedro or Erasmo can also take you to the local church and/or the local chapel, both of which are used today for a variety of life-cycle ceremonies as well as daily prayer.

Day of the Dead in Jaracuaro

The plaza in front of main church in Jaracuaro is a wonderful place to spend Day of the Dead.  Starting around 9 pm on November 1st, the entire town of Jaracuaro gathers for mass and then sticks around for a night of cultural performances.  Each act is introduced in both Spanish and Purepecha and the singers, dancers and musicians are truly incredible.  The food sold in the booths around the plaza is quite tasty as well.

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Local Climate

Jaracuaro’s climate is similar to nearby Patzcuaro. The village is quite high up in the mountains (just under 7,200 ft) so it can get chilly in the mornings and evenings of the cooler months between October and April; bring warm clothing with you during these months.  Most of the time, this region enjoys a warm, and at times wet, spring-like climate.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

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There are expats living here who came to the town, fell in love with it, and made a decision to purchase some land or property almost immediately.  This story is common in towns and cities all over Mexico, as people attempt to seize the moment or capitalize upon a particular investment opportunity that they came to know of during their visit.

However, if you want to get a feel for the place before making a longer-term commitment, most towns and cities in Mexico, including Patzcuaro, offer an ample selection of vacation rentals to choose from.

There are advantages and disadvantages to living in provincial Mexican towns, and compromises will need to be made wherever you may choose to settle.   Larger cities offer a wider choice of amenities and services as well as more depth of variety.  Cities are also more cosmopolitan whereas the provinces tend to attract certain types of people with interests specific activities or pastimes; for example, the arts, design, history or some maritime interest.  Smaller Mexican towns are generally quieter, more intimate, and less expensive to live in.

Today, most of the expatriates living in Patzcuaro are people in their mid forties and older, although a small few number of them moved here when they themselves were quite young.  This age pattern appears typical of people who move to Mexico, as younger generations are usually busy kindling careers, developing relationships and raising families in their home country.   There are exceptions to this pattern and the story of Fred and Megan here in Patzcuaro is one.

The matter of schooling is a key consideration for families with school-age children.   Bigger cities offer private schools that teach, principally, in English, although they are relatively expensive.  Smaller towns, and even some of the mid-sized cities, do not offer private schooling facilities, so if you moved to one of them, your children would need to undertake their studies in one of the local Mexican state schools – in Spanish – or commute to the nearest large town or city each day.

To get a deeper understanding of Patzcuaro – or any other place in Mexico you may be considering for living, working or retirement – it’s worthwhile moving there for a defined period of time, perhaps even for extended stays over different periods of the year.   If you are looking for a full-time location to retire to, knowing a town or city throughout the year’s changing seasons will also help you to manage your expectations of the location.   You can acquire this type of knowledge by returning to the place several times, or by living there for a month – possibly two or three – and engaging with local people and other expats who have already made the move to draw upon their experiences.

Not long ago, Patzcuaro was a town that most expats would never have heard of nor considered as a potential place for living and retirement.   Similar places include Merida, San Cristobal de las Casas, Campeche, Manzanillo, Mazatlan and San Felipe; locations hitherto considered ‘off the beaten track’ and too remote for comfort and practical purposes.

The development of roads, airports and modern communications across Mexico’s provincial regions is changing the demographic landscape of many towns across the country – Patzcuaro is a prime example – attracting people, investment, new infrastructure and, in the process, breathing new life into hitherto ‘backwater’ towns and cities as Mexicans and foreign expats alike bring their talents and capital to these places.

For people who want to live, work or retire in Mexico, Patzcuaro and other places like it offer the opportunity to live well amid an authentic Mexican setting, enjoy good standards of living with affordable rents, property prices and living costs, eat and drink healthily with locally-produced fresh foods available daily from the markets, and take an opportunity to live more simply in Mexico.