An influential visit

One of their earlier trips took them to Patricia’s friend’s house, situated in the highland town of Tepoztlán, near Cuernavaca —about an hour’s drive south of Mexico City— and this short weekend break left an impression on Steve that would change the course of his life, as he recalled, “…that first night, we were sitting together facing a log fire and looking at the mountains when a yellow dome began to rise between two cliffs.  We watched in awe as a full moon ascended, beautifully illuminating the cliffs—and it cast an immediate enchantment on both of us.”

Some months later, Steve was back in Mexico and together he and Patricia rented a house for a month in Tepoztlán, a town that Patricia had admired for decades, but for Steve, a place that had only just begun to weave its charms around him.

Tepoztlán: Close to nature, not too far from Cuernavaca

Tepoztlán’s impressive copper-tone mountains offer an agreeable backdrop for Steve, who prefers the openness of the rural countryside but also seeks easy access to local amenities. “The town is big enough for everyday needs, and close enough to Cuernavaca when we need supermarkets and healthcare services,” Steve remarks.

The cobble-stone streets, the local stalls with sellers of fresh fruit and vegetables, and the colorful artisan markets that set-up at the weekends when the tourists come to town add to the charm and character of this rural enclave.  The warmth and welcoming nature of the local people was another big draw for Steve, and it was during this second visit that he made the decision to move here.

Finding a house to buy in Mexico

The process of searching for and eventually finding a home they both liked took longer than they had anticipated.  With a checklist of practical requirements, they visited different house styles from stand-alone properties situated in neighboring rural villages to newly-built condominiums set inside gated communities near Tepoztlán’s center—but for varying reasons the properties were not suitable, or owners were unresponsive when they made an offer.

Steve recalls how, “one seller refused to answer an asking-price offer for weeks and when she finally responded, the price had been raised!” Although the process was, at times, frustrating, it was the second visit —underpinned by a longer house rental lasting several months— that gave them adequate time to buy a home.  With less haste, and with the assistance of a local realty agent they found helpful and supportive, they were able to view more properties, and take a calmer approach to the buying process.

A well-situated home that ‘feels right’

Steve reflects on how he and Patricia agreed the property ‘felt right’ from the moment they stepped-in: they love its character, its colonial architecture, and the breath-taking views and sunsets it offers across the surrounding valley.  Steve said that he never could have afforded a house of this style and quality back home, “I’d need to have saved twice as much money for retirement to live this lifestyle in the United States.” He considered the purchase price to be a good value, and the ongoing maintenance and taxes are affordable, as well.

The house they bought is situated close enough to the center of town for everyday amenities, and far enough away so as to enjoy an idyllic rural setting.  The 18 year-old property met their key criteria and, although it was in need of some repair —in particular, the roof needed resealing and retiling— these works added-up to no more than 10% of the property price and they have since spent about another 20% on upgrades and enhancements.

Settling-in to Mexican life and daily routines

By investing in the property and making the house comfortable, Steve began to put down his first roots in Mexico.  Discovering Mexico through his relationship with Patricia and taking an active role in the local community has deepened his endearment for the country and its people.

New friends, new perspectives

Steve’s enthusiasm is palpable when he talks about the new friendships he has been able to forge, “I have met so many interesting, engaging and thoughtful people here,” Steve says, “within Patricia’s social circles, with our neighbors and their friends, many who are Mexican and others from overseas, and the wonderful local people, from the builders to the market sellers we’ve gotten to know over time.  Everyone here is so warm and friendly, and I’ve been able to forge bonds with people of the kind that I wasn’t often able to back in the States.”

Learning to adapt

Steve concedes that he finds some aspects about living in Mexico difficult at times, and that some expectations he had imported from his US lifestyles are being gradually peeled away. “I would get very irritated at how long it took to drive through town, with tourists and slow delivery trucks holding-up the traffic,” he says. “The electricity power cuts were annoying, but the service has improved over time; and anyway, I’m relaxed about power cuts and traffic now.”

Learning the language

He admits that his frustrations are sometimes exacerbated by his reluctance to speak Spanish and he knows his experiences would be more enriching here if he did.  In reflection of the last couple of years he remarks —almost wistfully— that being in Mexico is teaching him so much; helping him to slow down and widen his perspectives; encouraging him to enjoy what is, and not live in continual resistance.

Perceptions of safety

The concerns vocalized by some of his family and friends when he announced he was moving to Mexico full-time, particularly fears they held around security and the drug cartels, have been allayed.  “I feel very safe in Mexico, and when friends and family come to visit, they witness the calm here firsthand, and those fears they carry melt away.”

Reflections on the decision to move to Mexico

Steve confidently asserts that his move to Mexico was one of the best decisions he’s made.  “Every day, Mexico surprises me, and I love the serendipity of life situations here.  Patri and I live in this beautiful highland town, we spend days taking care of our home and garden in this extraordinary temperate climate; we regularly welcome friends and neighbors, we hike, we travel in Mexico, and I still have plenty of time to keep my blog updated!” He concludes by adding, “I could not have wished for a happier and more fulfilling retirement than the one I have.”

Steve’s blog —StephenAlanTimm.com— offers readers articles and essays that share knowledge and understanding he acquired over the course of a lifetime working as a professional psychologist.  His intention is to help people find ways to live life more peacefully, and with a sense of abundance.

The point of no return

We asked him if he would ever return to the US to live.  He takes a long pause to contemplate, and then replies, thoughtfully, “only if a major healthcare issue obliges me to go back.  I consider Mexico my home.”  The point of no return happened on the occasion of the first birthday party he celebrated at the new house in October 2018. “There were about 20 people present; and as I looked around that late afternoon, an awareness came to me that I felt so at home, and comfortable here.  In that moment, I realized that this is where I belong.”

Resources for Living & Lifestyle in Mexico

Mexperience offers you a comprehensive online resource of information and local knowledge to help you discover Mexico, explore choices, find opportunities and plan a new life in Mexico.  Our resources include:

• Insightful articles about living and lifestyle in Mexico
• Complete guides to aspects of living in Mexico
• A library of free Mexico eBooks you can download
• A regular Mexico Newsletter you can subscribe to for free

The sweeping landscape of Mexico’s central highlands (also known as the Mexican Altiplano) is home to some of the country’s most picturesque and agreeable colonial towns and cities which offer an abundance of character and culture—and the benefits of mountain living.

The benefits of mountain living in Mexico

Living at elevation —typically, Mexico’s inland colonial towns and cities are situated at elevations of at least 4,000 feet above sea level— offers several benefits:

Ideal climates

Many places situated at elevation in Mexico offer the benefit of year-round temperate, low-humidity, climates created by a combination of the locations’ latitude and an average elevation around 6,000 feet above sea level which make it a pleasure to live and be outdoors, and an ideal location to enjoy active outdoor activities.

Enjoy plenty of daylight all-year

Year-round and especially during the winter, you benefit from at least ten hours of daylight every day of the year, with no shortage of daylight hours in the winter, and you also enjoy extended light into the evenings during the late spring and summer months.  You can learn about climates through the seasons in Mexico here on Mexperience.

Fresh highland air and breathtaking views

Enjoy crisp, fresh, mountain air which complements the magnificent views from local vantage points, and elevations that can aid your good health and general well-being without being too high so as to become uncomfortable.

Access to good local infrastructure and amenities

Many of Mexico’s popular colonial highland towns and cities offer provincial living with plenty of local fresh food and produce markets, (much of it grown locally), independent shops and boutique traders, with accessibility to popular big-brand stores, outlets, and supermarkets as well as specialized stores offering foods and homewares foreign residents often seek out when living here. Most colonial cities also have adequate-to-excellent healthcare facilities locally; in smaller towns, more extensive facilities are available in larger nearby cities.

Well-connected to transport links

You’ll discover that the highland towns are well connected by modern roads, most are serviced by frequent intercity bus services, and some also have airports nearby. High-speed internet access is available in your home, as well as wireless data over advanced mobile networks which form part of Mexico’s extensive communications infrastructure.

Integrate into genuine local communities

Many of the colonial towns and cities offer you the opportunity to participate and integrate in local communities.  Here you can discover authentic neighborhoods and real local community spirit, and if you choose to, you can integrate with local lifestyles and community groups, and forge long-term friendships.

Considerations for mountain living in Mexico

Mountain living isn’t for everyone.  Some people yearn to be near the ocean with year-round warmth, whereas highland towns tend to be cooler—and may even get cold at times during the winter months.  A very small number of people find that they can’t adjust to living at higher elevations, while others find the mountain towns too remote, rural, or provincial for their lifestyle preferences or intentions.

If you’re unsure, visit for an extended stay

An ideal way to determine if mountain life in Mexico will suit you is to invest in a trial period —perhaps six months to a year— and see how you respond to the experience.  When you take the time to explore, you’ll discover thriving communities where, when you’re prepared to integrate, local people will come to know and greet you by name, you’ll cultivate appreciable relationships, you’ll give and receive value as you trade at the local markets through transactions which feel human and personal… and over time, you become the community you seek.

When you look with care you’ll also find the very best of Mexico in these places—people, culture, climate, food, amenities, and real local communities. For some, Mexico’s highland towns and cities become exceptionally special places to live.

Choosing between urban and (semi) rural settings

Other than Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Monterrey, Mexico’s highland towns and cities are situated in provincial (rural or semi-rural) settings and we recommend your consider whether living in the Mexican countryside would suit you, as well as giving careful thought to your lifestyle needs as a whole as you short-list potential places to live instead of looking at certain aspects in isolation.

As with other places you may consider moving to in Mexico, you’ll need to plan and prepare for your new lifestyle, you might need to acclimatize to the higher elevation, and you’ll need to be prepared to forge your own story here. Hundreds of thousands of foreign residents enjoy a good life in Mexico; with some considered choices and forward planning, you could as well.

Explore highland towns and cities in Mexico

Here are some of the more popular colonial towns and cities foreign residents have settled in, as well as some which are less well-known and gaining attention in recent times.

Mexico’s colonial heartland

Querétaro, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende for traditional colonial highland cities; Aguascalientes for a more contemporary living lifestyle; and Zacatecas if you’re seeking a mountain city off-the-beaten-track and on the edge of a mountain frontier.

South-central highlands

Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán, and Puebla.  These traditional provincial highland places are situated conveniently close to Mexico City and yet are far enough removed from the congestion of the capital to enjoy a genuine provincial atmosphere and feel.  For a more rustic option off-the-beaten track in this area, consider Taxco.

In the mountains west of Mexico City

The highland lakeside towns of Chapala, and Ajijic are home to the largest community of foreign residents in Mexico; the city of Morelia offers old-world colonial elegance, and the ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro offers an attractive blend of colonial indigenous cultures amidst an intimate colonial setting. If you’re seeking an urban lifestyle at elevation, Guadalajara offers vibrancy, culture, and all the benefits of a large metropolitan city, and is close to Ajijic, Chapala, and Jocotepec—small towns settled along the northern shoreline of Lake Chapala and home to tens of thousands of foreign residents, most from the US and Canada.

Further south, to Oaxaca and Chiapas

Oaxaca City remains one of the most authentic and cultured colonial cities in Mexico; and further south, in the breath-taking state of Chiapas, you’ll find the highland mountain town of San Cristobal de las Casas—somewhat off-the-beaten-track and close to the traditional indigenous mountain communities of San Juan Chamula and Zinacatán.

Discover more places to live in Mexico

Discover interesting and charming locations to live, work or retire in Mexico, and articles with helpful insights about choosing a place to settle here.

Resources for Living & Lifestyle in Mexico

Mexperience offers you a comprehensive online resource of information and local knowledge to help you discover Mexico, explore choices, find opportunities and plan a new life in Mexico.  Our resources include:

• Detailed knowledge about planning a move in Mexico
• Insightful articles about living and lifestyle in Mexico
• Detailed insights about retirement in Mexico
• Practical insights for planning your Mexico lifestyle
• A regular Mexico Newsletter you can subscribe to for free

Living in Cuernavaca

Located fifty-six miles southeast of Mexico City, Cuernavaca is a colonial city that dates back to at least 1200 AD, when the settlement was an important agricultural and artisan center. Following its conquest by the Aztecs and later by the Spanish, the city continued to be an ongoing agricultural concern and also became a popular get-away location for wealthy Spaniards living in the capital.

Today, over four centuries later, Cuernavaca continues to be frequented by middle and upper-class chilangos at weekends and holidays, and is a location of choice for many wealthy Mexicans that own homes in the provinces.

Mexicans and foreigners alike are attracted to Cuernavaca. They are drawn here by three key attributes that make the location ideal for living and retirement: its proximity to Mexico City, its year-round temperate climate, and its abundance of modern services and amenities.

Cuernavaca’s altitude, at just over 5,000 feet above sea level, bequeaths the city a mild, year-round, temperate climate with a very comfortable annual average of temperature of 70F/21C. Air-conditioning is not required here and, as electricity is the most expensive utility in Mexico, this can translate into significant annual energy savings.

The climate also nourishes a lush landscape that during the rainy season bursts into life and giving the entire region an eye-catching backdrop of flora and fauna.

Art and education

For decades now, Cuernavaca has been a popular city for students and artists. The city is one of Mexico’s principal ‘centers of learning’, boasting more than seventeen universities (including extensions of the National Autonomous University of Mexico and a provincial campus of the elite Tecnologico de Monterrey) as well as over fifty language schools. Cuernavaca is considered to be one of the best locations in Mexico to study Spanish as a foreign language.

Popular with visitors and expatriates

The city of Cuernavaca and environs is an important tourist area in Mexico, one particularly well-known for its up-scale and boutique hotels and, notably, destination spas, some of which have attained world-class status.

Cuernavaca also has one of the largest concentrations of expats living in Mexico. Again, its proximity to the capital may be credited with the reason why so many expats come to live here — especially those who rely upon commercial connections in Mexico, or who have simply fallen in love with the capital and enjoy being close to it (if not living there, proper). Due to this cluster of foreigners which have relocated to Cuernavaca over the years, the expat community is extremely well-served by a network of English-speaking doctors, real-estate agents, and service businesses.

Colonial center

Much of the city center’s colonial charm has been compromised of late lack of necessary maintenance, heavy street traffic, and urban eyesores like graffiti. None of this is is un-fixable, nor is it a reason to avoid Cuernavaca: the matter of repair and restoration will probably be addressed in due course, as Mexico City’s decaying historical center was restored when it had fallen into significant disrepair.

The lion share of colonial-era elegance and charm in Cuernavaca has always been hidden away from public view. Behind some of the tall walls are beautiful gardens and residences owned by wealthy local families, politicians and celebrities: houses and estates which host some marvelous scenes of colonial-era gardens and architecture. Notwithstanding this, some of these historical properties have been converted into fine hotels, restaurants, and spas, offering the public an insight into the botanical and architectural marvels of that bygone era.

Population and real estate

The devastating earthquake that struck Mexico City in 1985 had a profound demographic effect on various provincial cities, as people — by choice or by force — relocated to colonial cities away from the capital. The city of Cuernavaca was one that swelled in population in the months and years following the earthquake.

Housing developments proliferated, and the rural areas around the city were transformed into urban landscapes filled with houses, gated communities and commercial and retail centers. The influx of people, and the accommodation demand that they have created, has brought about a local realty market offering a wide array of real estate choices for buyers and renters.

Lifestyle services and amenities

As more people have arrived to live here, services like clinics and hospitals, supermarkets, shopping malls and leisure facilities have opened their doors to fulfill the increasing demand.

Cuernavaca also features several city-based and regional attractions which provide visitors and residents with plenty of options for entertainment and leisure activities.

The city is host to a number of annual events and festivals each year, and there is often something happening at one of the downtown plazas on most weekends.

Cuernavaca is renowned for its many fine restaurants offering Mexican and international cuisine; some of these restaurants are housed inside old colonial residences and haciendas, offering good food surrounded by attractive gardens and colonial atmosphere.

There are number of ‘green areas’ to retreat to inside the city, including the San Anton waterfall, La Borda city gardens, and Chapultepec ecological park that features springs, picnic areas and a small zoo. Within a five mile drive of Cuernavaca’s city limits you can enjoy hiking trails, horseback riding, crystal-clear springs and lagoons for swimming, boating and fresh water fishing, and camping. You’ll also find a number of excellent spas with top-class facilities and staff.

Cuernavaca is also surrounded by a number of smaller towns and villages, each offering a unique character and many offering good quality food and artisan markets and stores. Tepoztlán is one such local town, just eleven miles away, within easy reach of Cuernavaca.

Comfortable climate, modern amenities

Mexicans and foreigners are attracted to Cuernavaca’s temperate climate, but also its central location close to the capital, and a reputation for being a relaxed and laid-back provincial community that also offers modern services and amenities which support a modern, and comfortable lifestyle.

Cuernavaca is not Mexico’s most picturesque nor most quaint colonial city. But for those who want to live in an authentic Mexican city with a temperate climate, perfectly located to explore the rich history and heritage of southern colonial Mexico, offering an extensive range of modern-day services and amenities, or want to (or have to) be close to Mexico City without living in the capital proper, Cuernavaca needs to be on the short list of locations for serious consideration.

Cost of living in Cuernavaca

The cost of living in Mexico is typically lower in Mexico than it is the USA, Canada and Western Europe, although precise costs depend upon where you live and your lifestyle choices.

Cost of living guide

To learn more about the cost of living in Mexico, connect to the Mexico Cost of Living page on Mexperience.

Regional and geographical cost variations do exist, and this part of the guide shows you how some goods and services in Cuernavaca vary from the average.

See also:

Banks, Banking and Credit in Mexico | Money in Mexico

Blog articles:

Money, Banking & Finance

Real estate in Cuernavaca

Information about the real estate market in Cuernavaca

Real estate market in Cuernavaca

Prices of realty in Cuernavaca have risen over the last decade, although prices here remain tempered in comparison to Mexico City and also the nearby popular expat enclave of Tepoztlán. Cuernavaca’s proximity to the capital means that this is a primary ‘short list’ location for people who want to relocate away from Mexico City. Cuernavaca also remains a popular destination for foreign residents, but less so than it was in the 1960s and 1970s and the expat population here is not as concentrated as it has become in places like San Miguel Allende, Chapala/Ajijic and Puerto Vallarta.

Cuernavaca’s realty market is diverse. Most expatriates on limited budgets seek to find a comfortable casita with some outdoor living space to take advantage of the near-perfect climate here; those with higher budgets may consider a luxury condominium in a gated community that may include facilities like a gym and swimming pool; or a private residence with its own grounds and gardens. At the top-end of the market, luxury residences, estates and colonial villas (or haciendas) are also available here.

Prices for real estate in Cuernavaca have atoned with the advent of the financial credit crunch that started in 1997 and some drug-related violence which flared up in the mid 2000s and has abated since. Sale prices continue to hold for certain types of desirable properties, but discounts may be found in other sectors of the market and rents remain excellent value here.

Most real estate is sold through local realty agents who know the area and the surrounding region, as well as directly through the developers marketing major realty projects (usually condos).

The central historical area — and especially the edges of same — exhibits a significant number of buildings in various states of disrepair and may provide a investment for people who want to create their home by means of a colonial restoration project. Such an investment would have to be viewed as a long-term proposition and there is no guarantee that the local authorities will invest any capital in restoring the central area of the city. Contacting a local realty agent is the best way of finding out what the status of an old (ruined) building may be, and to negotiate the sale if the owner is open to offers.

Rentals market in Cuernavaca

Cuernavaca has a very buoyant and dynamic rental market. Most luxury homes are vacation rentals; rented by the week or week-end. Longer term accommodations may be sought as well, and some people who only live in Cuernavaca part-time will rent their homes out during the period of their absence. Rental properties in Cuernavaca are offered either through local realty agents or by individual property owners listing properties on the internet or local newspapers and magazines as well as signs posted at restaurants, cafés, and bars near the vicinity where the rentals are situated. Some property developers rent out their units or rent out units on behalf of owners: check with local developers or a local realty agent for details and further information.  Real our guide to renting property in Mexico for information and tips about renting property here.

See also:

Guide to Real Estate in Mexico | Home Maintenance | Home Security

Healthcare in Cuernavaca

In addition to Mexico’s state sponsored healthcare provided via the country’s national health service IMSS, good quality healthcare services offered through private clinics with US -standard healthcare services exist in Cuernavaca. The privately-run out patient clinics available locally are ideal for day-to-day ailments, sprains, broken bones and other health matters which would normally be diagnosed and treated by a General Practitioner of medicine.

See Also:

Health and Healthcare in Mexico | Travel Health in Mexico

Local climate in Cuernavaca

Alexander von Humboldt, a 19th Century naturalist, once described Cuernavaca as “The land of eternal spring,” and since then, this phrase has been used extensively to market the city’s temperate climate. While the climate is generally agreeable, temperatures in Cuernavaca can soar in the late spring and early summer months, and days can feel quite hot and aggressive, especially so in April and May, before the rainy season begins properly. Most of the year, the climate is warm and temperate, and air-conditioning is not needed nor recommended. For hotter days, a fan-cooling system, or access to a swimming pool, will suffice for most people.

Winter climate:

December thru February are the cools and driest months. Temperatures range from highs between 75F/23C to 80F/26C and lows of between 50F/10C and 60F/15C.

Spring climate:

Temperatures begin to rise in March, and April and May are the hottest months, due to the heat and dryness. Highs can exceed 90F/32C and lows range from 65F/18C to 75F/23C.

Summer climate:

The rains will begin to fall around late May (or early June, depending on the year). June, July, and August offer pleasantly warm days cooled down by near-daily monsoon rains, which tend to arrive late afternoon or overnight, afterwards leaving the climate cooled but dry. Highs reach 75F/23C to 85F/29C and lows dip to a range of 65F/18C to 70F/20C.

Autumn climate:

Autumn starts in September, although the rains will linger through October. Temperatures moderate and, even after the rainy season ends (which is usually by no later than the end of October), temperatures will continue to feel spring-like with highs of 75F/23C to 80F/26C and lows of between 55F/12C and 65F/18C.

Rainy ceason:

Cuernavaca’s rainy season runs from May to October, with most of the rain falling in July and August. Torrential afternoon rains may be experienced several days a week and, in the peak temperature months of July, August and September heavy thunderstorms may feature, too.

Hurricanes:

Cuernavaca is an inland colonial city not directly affected by hurricanes. If hurricanes land on the Pacific coast near Acapulco (less than 190 miles away by road), inclement weather may be experienced inland, including in and around Cuernavaca.

See also:

Weather and Climates in Mexico

Practical information about living in Cuernavaca

This section contains links to guides where you can learn more about living in Cuernavaca.

Accessibility / Transport

Getting Around Cuernavaca

Getting Around

Transportation choices in Mexico

Communications

Staying in contact while living in Mexico

Money and Banking

Guide to Money in Mexico | Banks & Banking in Mexico

Practical Matters

Practical Information (Travel Guide)

Auto Insurance in Mexico

How to insure your foreign-plated car in Mexico

Safety in Mexico

Latest Safety Updates

Key Attractions

Travel Guide to Cuernavaca

Place is personal, subjective, and important—and as you consider places to live in Mexico, Mexperience helps you to consider your choices and shortlist locations that may suit your lifestyle needs.

Discover places to live, work or retire in Mexico

To help you discover and explore potential places to live here, Mexperience publishes a curated list of locations to consider for living, working or retirement in Mexico—organized by popularity and notoriety and classified by the location type.

Our articles introduce you to key places where many foreign residents live now, emerging locations that are becoming increasingly popular with foreign residents, as well as those places that are less well known, or situated off-the-beaten path. We also publish a selection of detailed guides of places to live in Mexico:

The most popular places to live in Mexico

Discover locations that have for a long time, or in recent times, garnered considerable popularity with foreign residents (retirees and others) and have active communities of interest established at the location.

Emerging locations to live in Mexico

Discover locations that have, in recent years, been catching the attention of foreign residents and have fledgling or developing communities of interest present there.

Underexplored locations to live in Mexico

Discover places that do not have significant numbers of foreign residents already established and are generally ‘off-the-beaten-path’ for most foreigners considering Mexico for living and retirement. These places can offer attractions that may be of interest to some potential foreign residents and retirees seeking someplace more traditional, unusual, and with a lower concentration of foreign residents living there.

Detailed living guides

For detailed guides to selected places to live and work or retire, connect to our section with Guides to Living Places in Mexico

Most (but not all) of Mexico’s colonial cities are situated at elevations of at least 5,000 feet above sea level and if the place you choose is situated in these high lands you can expect cooler and more temperate climates year-round than you’ll experience in colonial cities which are situated at lower elevation or nearer to the coasts where temperatures soar, particularly during the late spring and through the summer months.

During late fall and throughout the winter, early mornings, evenings, and nights are cooler in colonial cities—even chilly in some higher places that may also require the warmth of a fireplace or other heating system. The spring and fall climates are close to ideal in most of Mexico’s highland colonial cities, featuring a temperate ambiance with occasional rainfalls between otherwise undisturbed sunlight, shining across crisp and deep azure-blue skies.

The late spring and summer months in Mexico’s highland colonial cities are warm and can get quite hot.  Most regions experience seasonal rains between June and October each year; these often take the form of torrential afternoon or evening downpours which cool the high summer temperatures and make the local flora radiate with color and fragrance.

Which colonial cities are people moving to?  The two big ‘expat enclaves’ of San Miguel de Allende and Ajijic/Chapala have been popular with foreign residents for decades, and their lure and appeal is still attractive to many who visit and call these places their home, full or part-time.

Foreigners researching places to live in Mexico will usually come across popular colonial locations like San Miguel de Allende, Ajijic, and Cuernavaca. Other places that are less well-known but which have have been rising in popularity in recent years include: Mérida, Puebla, Guanajuato, Querétaro, and Oaxaca. For places somewhat off-the-beaten-path, you might also consider researching San Cristobal de las Casas, and Morelia (with nearby Pátzcuaro).  If you’re seeking a colonial setting near the coast consider Mazatlán, Manzanillo, and Campeche.

With the exception of the most popular colonial towns, Mexico’s colonial settings offer (generally speaking) lower property purchase and rental prices than equivalent land and homes situated at popular Mexican beach-side towns and resorts. However, house prices in colonial cities have risen substantially in recent years and property prices across Mexico are no longer the bargain they once were.  It’s also worth keeping in mind that lesser-known colonial locations don’t tend to generate the same level of property sales turnover as the most popular locations do, so if you buy land or property away from a fashionable area, it might take longer to sell.  You can learn all about property purchase and ownership in Mexico here on Mexperience.

We recommend above all else that you take time to step back and consider your lifestyle needs and short-list locations in Mexico that serve those needs.

If you’re looking for a long-term investment and a foothold in Mexico that will provide you with a stable home, a good climate, decent access by road (some cities also have airports not far away); a lower cost of living than the US, Canada and Europe; and a place where you can be surrounded by culture and heritage, do some research here on Mexperience to learn about Mexico’s colonial cities and then go and experience a few of them in person.  You may be pleasantly surprised.

Cuernavaca is today one of Mexico’s best-known colonial cities. The city has a history that dates back to at least 1200 AD, when the location was an important agricultural and artisan center. The city was conquered by the Aztecs around 1380 and, after the subsequent conquest by the Spanish, the city became an important agricultural center and popular get-away location for the well-heeled Spaniards living in the capital.

Today, more than 400 years later, during weekends and holidays, the highway from Mexico City to Cuernavaca becomes packed with capitalinos (Mexico City residents), heading out of the city to get away for a break.

The city’s original name, “Cuauhnahuac” (kwow-NAH’-wak) translates into ‘place of great trees’, although the Spanish renamed it to its present-day name, which sounds similar, but literally translated means ‘horn of the cow’.

A principal attraction of this colonial city is its year-round temperate climate. Alexander von Humboldt, a 19th Century naturalist, once described Cuernavaca as ‘The land of eternal spring’, a phrase that seems to have stuck as it’s still used extensively today when the city is described by journalists, long-standing residents and even the local government promotional signs.

Besides the principal colonial buildings and monuments in the historic center, for example, El Palacio de Cortes (lately renamed to Museo de Cuanahuac), Palacio de Gobierno, the Cathedral and Casa Maximiliano, much of Cuernavaca’s colonial-era elegance and charm is hidden away from view. Behind some of the tall walls are beautiful gardens and residences owned by wealthy local families, politicians and celebrities: houses and estates which host some marvelous scenes of colonial architecture and life.

Some of these colonial residences, dating back to the 15th century, have been converted into fine hotels, restaurants, spas and museums which give visitors an opportunity to get a glimpse into what lies beyond the protective stone walls; with scenes including cool green garden patios bursting with flora, stunningly preserved original colonial courtyards, elegant rooms and hallways with tall ceilings and original wood beams, and sub-tropical blossoms in quiet colonial gardens where birdsong echoes and water trickles down stone fountains.

For peace and quiet that is open to the public, visit the Jardin de Borda that is a short walk from the center of town; or the Chapultepec Park and the San Anton waterfall which are situated away from the city center but well inside the city limits.

Semi-precious stones from the surrounding mountains, said to give off energy, are sold in various typical markets all over Cuernavaca. In fact, this whole area is said to be surrounded by natural energy sources including springs, rocks and volcanoes, and it’s one of the reasons why there are a number of top quality spas located here. See the Mexico Spas guide on Mexperience for more information about how you can enjoy a wonderful experience at one of the country’s top spas situated here in Cuernavaca.

As a reward for his endeavors, Hernan Cortes was given what the Spanish Crown then termed as the ‘Valle de Oaxaca‘, an enormous expanse of land south of Mexico City encompassing some 22 towns, including Cuernavaca. Cortes retired here and you can visit his old estate, including the Palacio de Cortes (recently renamed to Museo de Cuauhnahuac, although most people continue to refer to it by its former name). Maximilian and Carlotta had a weekend retreat in Cuernavaca—it too, is an important museum open to the public. And one of Mexico’s oldest churches, built in 1592, can be seen here in Cuernavaca.

A large community of foreign expatriates live here, part-time or full-time. Many relocated to Cuernavaca to enjoy the great climate and access to modern facilities, while others find it convenient being so close and well-connected to Mexico City which is just fifty-six miles north east of the city and connected to the capital by a modern four-lane highway. Cuernavaca has an airport situated on the southern perimeter of the city, and there is also a direct, two-way, bus service from Cuernavaca to Mexico City’s international airport.

Cuernavaca is known as one of the country’s major Spanish language study centers, boasting over fifty Spanish language schools. Many foreigners come here to study or improve their Spanish language skills. For more details connect to our section about Learning Spanish.

You can enjoy Cuernavaca as a day trip from Mexico City, but you’ll get much more from a visit to the area by staying at least a couple of nights at one of the local hotels. The city offers some very comfortable hotels, including restored colonial-era residences and haciendas, so your accommodation can become an experience in its own right.

Organized tours of Mexican colonial cities usually include a stop-over in Cuernavaca. Some people stay here for a week or more, making it a base from which to explore and discover more of Mexico’s southern colonial region, or as a stop-over on the way to the nearby colonial city of Taxco and the world-famous port city of Acapulco.

Cuernavaca offers an abundance of attractions and activities to visitors. It’s a good place to visit for a day, but’s it’s a better place to stay and relax for a weekend or longer.

Key Attractions

Colonial Center

If you drive here, leave your car parked and walk around the colonial center, or take one of the official guided tours.

Key attractions include the Cathedral, Catedral de la Asunción de María, one of the oldest churches in Mexico; started in 1529 and completed in 1552. The city Zocalo (Main Plaza) hosts some magnificent colonial architecture— including the Plaza de Armas and Palacio de Gobierno— leading on from here is also the Palacio de Cortez, now also known as Museo Cuauhnahuac (see note above). This is the only Zocalo in Mexico that does not feature a Cathedral.

In 1987, the Gardens at Jardín Borda, were completely restored after years of decay. The house and gardens were originally commissioned by a wealthy silver magnate in the 1700’s and this place was also host to Maximilian and Carlotta during the French reign in Mexico.

If you like art, go to the Museo Casa Robert Brady, which is actually a private house turned into a magnificent art gallery. Here, you’ll find a permanent collection on display which includes works by Rufino Tamayo and a self portrait by Frida Kahlo. The house and collection belonged to Robert Brady, an American who resided in Cuernavaca from 1962 to 1986.

Art lovers may also enjoy a tour to the workshop (taller) at the Taller de Alfaro Siquieros, a very famous Mexican Muralist, which is also found here in Cuernavaca’s colonial center.

Away from the Colonial Center

There are two main attractions to bring to your attention a couple of miles outside of the City’s colonial center. The first is the Salto de San Antón, which is a small village hosting a magnificent waterfall. You can walk behind it and picnic there. The second is Casa Maximiliano (Maximilian’s House), which was built in 1866 and also hosts the Museo de Medicina Tradicional (Traditional Medicine Museum) and a Herb Garden.

Learn Spanish in Cuernavaca

There’s no better way to learn Spanish than by becoming immersed in it at a language school in Mexico. Cuernavaca is well-known as a cultural and language center and there are number of fine language schools here. Read our guide to Learning Spanish in Mexico for more details and to find a language school in Cuernavaca.

Spas in Cuernavaca

Cuernavaca is host to some the best spas in Mexico. For more information about spas, and how to benefit from a magnificent health spa experience in Mexico, connect to the Mexperience guide to Mexico Spas.

Getting There & Around

By Air – There’s a small airport here, which receives some domestic flights although most people drive or take the bus from Mexico City. Ground transportation is available from the airport to the center of town. For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.

By Bus – You can travel to Cuernavaca on a first-class bus from Mexico City— the trip takes between 60 and 90 minutes — depending on the weight of traffic in and out of the capital. Buses are frequent and this is the most common way of getting to Cuernavaca from Mexico City besides driving a car. Buses can be boarded at the southern bus terminal (Central de Autobuses del Sur) , and now also directly from the airport in Mexico City. Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for National Buses.

By Car – Driving to Cuernavaca is very fast and efficient with a six-lane toll highway direct to Cuernavaca from Mexico City. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience.

Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico.

Taxis – Taxis in most of Mexico’s colonial towns and cities are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico, in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a price with the driver. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico.

Cuernavaca Essentials

Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines are found throughout the downtown area of Cuernavaca. During business hours, they and the local Casas de Cambio will buy traveler’s checks and cash from you as well. For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Internet Access: Internet cafes can be easily found in towns and cities across Mexico and WiFi is increasingly commonplace–from cafes, shops, hotels, and some cities even offer free WiFi in some defined public spaces.

Busy Times in Cuernavaca: All weekends are busy in Cuernavaca, and if you want to stay at one of the hotels, it’s best to book ahead of time. Cuernavaca gets especially busy during Holiday weekends, and in particular, at Easter and during the Independence Day celebrations around September 16th. The roads out of Mexico City towards Cuernavaca get particularly heavy during long holiday weekends in Mexico, during school holidays, and during the Easter, Christmas and Independence Day periods. The roads from Cuernavaca back into Mexico City get jam-packed on the last days before the holiday period ends. If you can, avoid ‘traveling with the crowds’ by leaving earlier and returning later or vice-versa.

Local Climate

Cuernavaca’s climate is temperate and very comfortable all year-round, although the summers can get quite hot in the center and south of the city.  The areas north of the center are more temperate year-round, and areas in the far north are temperate in summer and can get cool or cold in the winter months.  It’s a city situated approximately 1,530 meters (just over 5,000 feet) above sea level, and during the winter months, early mornings and later evenings can get cool, and cold in the northern parts of the city, so pack layers of warmer clothes if you visit during the late fall and winter months.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico