The ‘elegant skull’ conceived by a Mexican engraver

The character on which La Calavera Catrina —“The elegant skull”— is based was conceived by Mexican engraver José Guadalupe Posada.  The original Catrina was titled La Calavera Garbancera: in the form of an artistic etching in zinc, composed for use as political satire around 1910 intended to poke fun at a certain social class of Mexicans who the artist portrayed as having European-aristocratic aspirations—thus the Catrina’s archetypal grandiose plumed hat of a style that passed through a period of high fashion in Europe during that age.

Diego Rivera’s mural

La Calavera had to wait nearly four decades following its debut before becoming ingrained in popular culture. It was in the late 1940s that Diego Rivera’s mural, Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central —that illustrates four centuries of Mexico’s key characters including Rivera himself, Posada, and Frida Kahlo— that gave Posada’s satirical character exposure and notoriety, as well as the moniker La Calavera Catrina by which the original character is still known and referred to today.

Sought-after art and national fair

Las Catrinas have since developed a keen cultural following across Mexico, and the figurines have become an established form of art here.  Today, artful, elegant and sometimes elaborate Catrinas are recreated by artisans using a variety of materials including ceramic, wood, crepe paper, papier-mâché, clay, resin, compressed sugar, and chocolate.  The intricate detail of each sculpture as well as its paint and final decorative detail is all-important, and some meticulously-crafted Catrinas can fetch high prices in art galleries.

The colonial city of Aguascalientes, birthplace of José Guadalupe Posada, celebrates Las Catrinas at its national fair, where an enormous statue of a Catrina is put on display, as well as hosting an annual festival that features music, costumes, dance, and artwork related to celebrating the culture and history of the La Calavera Catrina.

Catrinas and Day of the Dead traditions

Catrinas become abundantly present during Day of the Dead traditions; sold in markets and art galleries, they can be readily seen on some altars and on display as figurines crafted in a range of different materials and hand-finished, as well on colorful paper cut-outs, statues; and they’re prominent in costume during Day of the Dead processions. It’s also fashionable for participants in Day of the Dead processions and parties to to paint their faces to emulate the Catrina.

Learn more about Day of the Dead in Mexico

We publish guides and articles to help you discover more about Day of the Dead in Mexico, as well as Pátzcuro and Oaxaca City.

• Articles to discover Day of the Dead in Mexico
• Celebrating life on Day of the Dead
• Altars and offerings for Day of the Dead
• Delicious bread and hot chocolate traditions
• The iconic flower synonymous with Day of the Dead
• Children’s Calaverita traditions
• Guides to Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca City

We talked with Jim Johnston, a working artist who has been living here for over 20 years, to discover what attracts him to Mexico, how his working life has unfolded over two decades, and what advice he has for other artists who may aspire to follow in his footsteps.

Jim grew up in New York and, after earning a degree in architecture and graphic design in Virginia, he returned to his home city where he spent the better part of the next three decades working as a professional artist and potter.  Jim’s earnest encounters with Mexico started in 1989 when he began spending ever-longer stints of time here with his partner, the renowned food writer Nick Gilman.  His transition was gradual and by 1997 found himself living here full-time. In 2005 Jim and Nick decided to sell their house in San Miguel de Allende and move to the Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City, where they live and work today.  His art studio is a short walk from their home in the adjacent Colonia Roma.

“The restaurant across the road really put this street on the map,” Jim remarks, as he reflects on how the neighborhood has been passing through a period of significant change since he purchased his art studio over a decade ago. Like many neighborhoods across the Mexican capital, the Colonia Roma has passed through cycles of prosperity and decline; today, the northern side of the borough is one of the trendiest places to live in the capital—although the days when monthly rents were equivalent to a couple nights’ stay at a hotel are long past.

As he reflects on his time here, he affirms that making a living as a working artist in Mexico is as challenging —if not more so— than in other places around the world, including New York.  When Jim was ten years old, his father bought a motel and being able to observe how the family-run business was operated brought him an appreciation for self-sufficiency and the mechanics of self-employment—skills he’s found beneficial throughout his working life, although he openly admits that he’s not as commercially-minded as some other artists he knows.

When he moved to Mexico, he shifted from making pottery to creating unique art pieces using acrylic paints.  His latest projects employ a ‘monoprint’ technique which transfers dried paint from an acrylic board to damp paper to create collages—a method which produces surprisingly attractive art.

Most artists’ income in Mexico springs from a variety of activities, and in Jim’s own circumstance this is no exception: he also writes for a living (Mexico: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler is one of the best-sellers in its genre) and runs artists workshops.  In years past, when he was living in San Miguel, he used his architectural skills to spot real estate opportunities where properties could be fixed up and sold at a profit—which helped him to build a nest-egg over time.

When we talked about what attracts Jim to Mexico as an artist, he remarks that he particularly likes the warm-hearted people and their laid-back approach to everyday life situations.  He finds the year-round temperate climate agreeable; and the enormous variety of foods and flavors on offer provide another layer of enjoyment alongside Mexico’s already colorful backdrops.  Over the years, he and Nick have become an integral part of artists’ communities here, and both became naturalized Mexican citizens.  Although he travels with some frequency to visit Europe and India, he’s always pleased to touch-down on Mexican soil and return to what he regards as his true home.

We talk about the challenges of being an artist in Mexico and ask him to share advice for anyone aspiring to move to Mexico to work as an artist. “Come with a vision of what you intend to achieve and be prepared to be very patient.”  He remarks on how he discovered that everything takes longer here, and it also takes a good while to get yourself known and established as an artist.  “You’re going to need some capital behind you to get you through the first year, and probably longer.”

Jim has a fully-revised 2018 edition of his guidebook Mexico: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler for sale on Amazon, and his partner Nick Gilman continues to write about food and flavors in Mexico City on his popular blog, which is an authoritative source of knowledge for foodies in Mexico.

The short ‘mosaic’ films they create share insightful vignettes about countries including  culture, people, food, language, art, and traditions.

The founders, who began the project as a duo, now lead a team of ten people and their intention is to create a short film about every country in the world.

Their film about Mexico includes beautifully composed sequences and photography from various parts of the country which reveal traditional aspects of everyday Mexican life.

The film also features local people expressing their thoughts, hopes and aspirations about human life and the world we share—in Spanish and other indigenous languages.

The documentary is presented in Spanish with English subtitles and may be viewed below, on the project’s YouTube channel, and website that shares details about the wider project.

Marianne Carlson founded an art festival that seeks to raise awareness for genuine Mexican art and the Master Artisans who bring it into being. Feria Maestros del Arte, now in its fifteenth year, has become an important stage for genuine Mexican art.

Mexican art has a long and rich history that stretches back to pre-Hispanic times, with artists applying techniques and styles to their works which have been handed-down through countless generations: these are the works which retain and reflect an authenticity that only hand-made original art can convey.

Marianne and her team scout all of Mexico seeking the best art and artisans, and invite them to Feria Maestros del Arte. The artists have their expenses covered by the organization, and are not charged any fees for attendance, so they keep every peso in income from the sales they make at the fair.

The fair is unique. This is an art market where you’ll find a carefully curated collection of Mexican art works, crafted and sold in-person by the country’s finest living artisans, and where you can be assured that the art you purchase is hand-made in Mexico, and authentic in every sense.

Over 100 artisans will be present this year, offering an abundance of high quality and diverse art pieces for buyers to choose from, including:

Panama hats, the classic and timeless hat, made in Bécal, in the state of Campeche on Mexico’s Gulf coast

Handmade footwear, including fashionable ethnic shoes from Oaxaca

Kitchen utensils, including knives from the famous José Ojeda family

Wooden art works, including Alebrijes which are hand-carved wooden animals, individually painted and every one unique

Catrinas, skeleton dolls, hand-made in plaster and individually painted. They are one of the most traditional artwork displays for celebrations around Day of the Dead

An abundance of ceramics, including barro betus, barro canelo, barro bruñido, black ceramics, and high-fire ceramic

Unique Mexican jewelry, including silver Yalalag crosses, pieces made from recycled aluminum, cloth, and other materials

Woven art including beautiful rebozos, huipiles, blouses, and more

Straw art, including papier-mâché, hand-made paper amate, and hand-made hammocks using traditional materials

Furniture made of chuspata (a type of reed), and equipales (traditional Mexican furniture)

See Also: Tips for Spotting Genuine Mexican Artwork

Image above shows two artisan women from the San Mateo del Mar cooperative in Oaxaca, Mexico.

The Guelaguetza has its roots in the cult to Centeōtl, the goddess of maize, and is the heart of numerous cultural activities and festivities celebrating Oaxaca’s traditions and pride in a scene of color, music, and history.

Guelaguetza is a Zapoteca word meaning “active cooperation”; it is a gift that evokes reciprocity expressed by music, dance, and songs. The festival, which takes place annually on the two Mondays following July 16th, is part of the Fiestas de los Lunes del Cerro (Monday Festivities on the Hill) in Oaxaca City—a tradition that has been celebrated for more than 500 years. This is a unique festival with significant historical and cultural roots. The contribution of indigenous culture and traditions is so important during the Lunes del Cerro celebrations, that they have come to be known simply as the Guelaguetza.

The entire city of Oaxaca participates in this event which today, due to Spanish influence, also reflects Christian values centered around Corpus Christi of the Temple of Carmen Alto, built by the Carmelita nuns on the Bella Vista hill. However, Guelaguetza retains many of the Zapoteca traditions such as being held in July – to coincide with a date on the Zapoteca calendar dedicated to the Centeōtl, the goddess of maize – and the eight-day celebrations are still called the “Octava.”

During the celebrations, groups representing each of the seven traditional regions: Central Valleys, Juarez Sierra, the Glens, Tuxtepec, the Mixteca, and the Coast and the Tehuantepec Isthmus, congregate in the city of Oaxaca. Each delegation exhibits its cultural heritage with dance, music, and local songs. The traditional gala costumes are also a reflection of their culture and respect for the ceremony.

One of the most noticeable features of the Guelaguetza is the public’s participation. At the end of the performance, each performing group distributes typical items from their region among the spectators. This offering is also called the Guelaguetza, and is a way for the artists to involve everyone who attends in the joy and meaning of the ceremony – through active cooperation – and in so doing, they also act out one of the most revered values of their indigenous ancestors.

Owing to the enormous enthusiasm from both locals and visitors during the Guelaguetza celebrations, several folkloric shows have been added to support the event. Among them is a parade that is staged by each delegation the Saturdays before the Monday Guelaguetza. Known as the Calenda, the parade is led by a marmota—a huge castle covered in cloth, the “giants,” and “Chinas Oaxaqueñas,” who are local women carrying colorful baskets accompanied by their musical bands.

On the same Saturday as the Calenda parade, a woman is chosen to represent Centéolt, who will preside over the celebrations. This is not a beauty contest; instead the woman with the most knowledge of her people’s traditions is chosen.

A wide variety of other events also take place in Oaxaca during the two weeks of the Guelaguetza festival, including concerts, conferences, and exhibits of local arts and handicrafts, offering a unique opportunity for visitors to get a feel for the culture and region of Oaxaca as well as acquire unique, hand-made artworks from local artisans. Since 1997 the country’s Mezcal fair has also been held in the city of Oaxaca during the weeks of the Guelaguetza celebrations.

The festival itself is celebrated on the Cerro del Fortin. A special auditorium built in the 1970s is in place specifically for this celebration. (Other events are held here at other times of the year.)  This outdoor auditorium, which also offers spectacular views over the city, has seating for about 11,000 spectators.  There are two shows on each Monday of the Guelaguetza: one at 9 a.m. and another at 5 p.m.

The auditorium has recently had a tarp-roof added to protect both spectators and performers from the hot sun.  Nonetheless, taking sunscreen and a sunhat is advisable, as well as a pair of binoculars or theater glasses if you are situated further back or want to see the detail of the costumes.  Ambulant vendors pass-by selling refreshments—take some cash (small bills) with you for purchases.

If you cannot make the July festival, Guelaguetza costumes and dancing can be enjoyed year-round in Oaxaca.  The Casa de Cantera restaurant is open seven days from 2 p.m. to late with tables arranged around a stage; from 8:30 p.m. every evening, a Guelaguetza dance spectacle is presented for all diners.  On Friday nights, the Camino Real hotel also features a dinner and Guelaguetza show.

Further details about this year’s events and celebrations can be found here

A good place to scout and buy handicrafts is across Mexico’s rural towns and villages, where local people, known as artesanos, make their living by creating the art works.  Mexican handicrafts range from common trinkets to masterful works of fine art—and everything in-between.   The types of handicrafts which predominate in each region usually reflect the natural materials available locally:  woods, metals, textiles, leathers, yarns and clay are the most common.

Some states run government-sponsored “artisan markets” in the state’s capital city, where tourists and locals may find arts and handicrafts that are created in the state’s rural villages conveniently mustered in one place.  The markets also provide an organized commercial outlet for artisans who otherwise do not have the resources to market their art.

In principal tourist locations like Mexico City, Guadalajara, San Miguel de Allende, Oaxaca and Puerto Vallarta, you can find artisan markets which bring handicrafts together from the entire region and/or the country—and many other towns and cities have artisan markets that set-up near the town center at least once a week.

Another significant outlet for handicrafts in Mexico is the Feria Maestros del Arte, an annual event which brings together the best artisans from all over Mexico.

Principal handicrafts available for purchase in Mexico

Masks: Hand-crafted masks made in Mexico are created using wood or papier-mâché.  Mask-making in Mexico dates back to pre-Hispanic times and, although some are sold for rituals and festivals, most are intended as fine wall-mounted ornaments.  The finest wooden masks may be sought in Tocuaro.

Bags: Made principally from leather or textile, the bags come in a range of styles, and colors, and often feature unique, intricate, design-work on the outside.  You can find bags at most markets in towns and cities across Mexico.

Silver: Mexico’s colonial wealth, particularly in the country’s heartland, was built upon the rich lodes of silver buried in the mountains.  Even today, Mexico is one of the world’s top silver-producing countries.  You can find silver jewelry and other artworks made using silver everywhere in Mexico, although the colonial city of Taxco is the most renowned location to acquire it.  When you visit Taxco to buy silver, it’s worth scouting the small alleyways and streets away from the center of town to find the best offers.

Copper: Copper is mined, smelted, and worked in Mexico and incorporated into a number of crafts including plates, ornaments, bowls and jugs.  This highly attractive metal is also worked into some of the finest examples of hand-made Mexican furniture. At Santa Clara del Cobre, a small village near Pátzcuaro, you can watch as artisans beat the copper by hand using age-old traditional techniques as well as choose hand-made copper wares from a wide range on display in local shops and markets in the village.

Wood: Whether natural or lacquered, you’ll find an enormous selection of woodcraft in Mexico.  Most are made from pinewood; some of the most beautiful furniture made in Mexico is created using fine mahogany woods from licensed forests in southern Mexico.  Lacquered box chests, trays, and even trunks are hand-crafted using scented woods grown around the village of Olinala, in Guerrero state.  The naturally-scented wood is sourced from the fragrant Aloe tree, although as demand for this wood has outstripped supply, many examples of the items you see in markets are made from pinewood and later scented using natural essences.

Alebrijes: An impressively-attractive Mexican craft work creates what are called Alebrijes: figurines depicting animals or other mythical creatures.  There are two broad categories of Alebrije: small and large.  The small ones are hand-carved from pieces of wood and beautifully painted in bright colors; the large ones are made by sculpting metal wires, covering the structure in papier-mâché, and finally the art work is beautifully and painstakingly hand-painted; the latter type are quite expensive, but each is a unique work of fine art.

Gourds: The hard shells from certain types of squash fruits have been used in Mexico for centuries to create bowls, cups, and other small storage vessels.   The most common gourds are sourced from the fruit of the Jicara trees.  The most widely employed gourd decoration technique involves coating the gourd with layers of paste or paint, and allowing each layer to harden before applying the next one.  The final layer is hand-painted with the artisan’s own unique design and finally sealed with an oil varnish to protect the work.

Ceramics and Earthenware: Pottery in Mexico dates back to the pre-Columbia era, although it was not until the Europeans arrived that techniques like the potter’s wheel were introduced. Ceramics is the most practiced handicraft in Mexico and you’re spoiled for choice here when it comes to purchasing ceramics: from basic clay plates and bowls, through to practical and hard-wearing tableware and kitchen utensils for everyday use, to elaborately decorated works of art.  Regions tend to specialize in different materials, for example, Oaxaca is famous for its black clay, Puebla for its durable and very attractive Talavera.  The more elaborate pieces which are batch-made are often individually hand-painted making each one unique.

Paintings on Bark: You can find colorful designs painted onto what looks like brown paper; the material is called amate, and is made from tree bark.  The quality varies; most markets peddle run-of-the-mill examples of this art form; however, very fine works of art painted onto good quality amate are available if you look carefully.  Feel the paper and, in particular, pay attention to the fine detail of the paintwork.   More skillful works of art are painted onto better quality papers; the price will be higher too.

Textiles: Hand-made clothes may be found in markets across Mexico, often encompassing some type of colorful embroidery design woven or stitched into white fabric.  Look out for spectacular tablecloths too: the best ones emanate from the states of Michoacan and Oaxaca; if you buy elsewhere, ask the sellers you encounter where in Mexico the ones they are offering originate from.

Musical Instruments: If you’re looking for a classical guitar, violin, or cello you may find the instrument you’re looking for in Paracho, one of Patzcuaro’s Lakeside Villages.  Most of the classical guitars you buy in Mexico will emanate from here.

Hammocks: Although you can find hammocks in markets nation-wide, the Yucatan region, and specifically Merida, is the place to buy hammocks in Mexico.  Mexican hammocks are woven in a variety of colors and patterns, although not all hammocks are created equal: there are certain features which need to be considered closely if you are going to procure a hammock that will last you and be comfortable to lie in.  Here’s a guide about Buying Hammocks in Mexico

The value of any art work is, ultimately, in the eye of the beholder: how we perceive art, and how we respond in the presence of any art piece presented to us is a very personal matter.  Genuine art works you purchase in Mexico will carry a woven narrative that describes the elements which brought the work into being — for example, the materials employed, the artisan’s technique, the traditions, its history and symbolic meaning — and all these formed through the hands of an individual artist who acts as a conduit between the elements.  Art that means something to you personally is the kind of art you will never tire of enjoying.

When you’re purchasing art works in Mexico, it makes good sense to be forearmed with some knowledge about how to spot genuine Mexican art, so that you will take home something that embodies the elements of a true art piece and not a mass-produced reproduction masquerading as true Mexican art.

Ask questions that reveal provenance

When you’re in the market to purchase Mexican art works, ask questions about how the pieces you are offered came into being, and who the artist is. If the artist is not the seller, ask about how the seller is connected to the artist and listen carefully to the response you’re given. In some cases it could be a friend, fellow artisan, or family member.  True art has a narrative that leads back to the elements, described above, which made it so.  Imitations and mass-production faux art lacks this narrative.

Look for a signature

Check the piece for a signature, which is a form of branding in the Mexican art world. Note though, that the piece may not actually have been made by the person who signed it. Juana Gómez Ramírez, famous for her jaguars (pictured above), is the maestra in her family and even though she does not read or write she has her own signature. She may also sign the work of her brother, husband, and others in her family whose work meets her stringent requirements. This is a very common practice among families who work together, or in talleres (workshops) where there is a maestro teaching his techniques and designs to the apprentices.  The signature is only one part of the overall revision process and should not be taken in isolation, because, for example, there are unscrupulous artists out there who sign Juana’s name to their copies.

Buy from the source, if you can

If you purchase direct from the artist’s home, you can be pretty certain that the work will be genuinely theirs. If it’s not signed, ask them to sign it. If an artist will not sign the piece it could be because they don’t write or because they didn’t actually make it. When you purchase art works at Feria Maestros del Arte, you can be almost certain that the work being sold has been made by the artist represented. The Feria is very strict when selecting its artists and if an artisan is discovered not selling their own work, he or she is dropped from the program.

A note about pottery

When pottery is manufactured in bulk, a process known as slip-casting is used—to learn more about the tell-tale signs of slip-casting, read this article. The sought-after thin-walled pottery of Mata Ortiz is all hand-coiled; if a pot offered to you in her name has been slip-cast, it is not an original Mata Ortiz pot. Collectors of Mexican pottery might not purchase pots with colored pigment because those pigments are a fairly recent addition; earth tones were used centuries ago when the pottery was first made by the Paquimé Indians. Some artists stay true to the old way, some decide to add a contemporary feel with some additional color.

See Also: Buying Handicrafts in Mexico

About six miles southeast of the center of Guadalajara city you’ll find the trendy and artistic neighborhood of Tlaquepaque (“Tla-Keh-Pa-Keh”).  A colonial town dating back to Hispanic times, today it has become the area’s boutique shopping district with trendy shops and restaurants lining colonial-style streets and alleyways, plazas, and gardens.  Tlaquepaque is increasingly becoming a popular base for visitors to the area, situated about half-way between the city’ international airport and the historic center of Guadalajara.

The town’s up-market arts and crafts center boutique shops and trendy restaurants line the picturesque colonial-style streets and alleyways, plazas, and gardens. The shops specialize in art and craft works from all over Mexico, with a particular emphasis on ceramics, bronze, sculpture, wooden furniture, papier-mâché, blown glass, and embroidered cloth.

Although the old town has now been absorbed into the expansive reach of the Guadalajara metro area, Tlaquepaque retains the traditional structure of a small Mexican community: a central plaza (Jardin Hidalgo), a parish church, central market, and old-style central neighborhoods which retain their original colonial character.

Its mansions and gentile style date back to the 19th century, when Tlaquepaque was one of the principal stops en route to Mexico City. It also holds an important place in Mexico’s history: The Plan de Iguala, which set forth the foundation for Mexican Independence from Spain, was signed at the house situated on the corner of Independencia and Contreras Medellin.

The look, feel, and atmosphere around Tlaquepaque is distinctly colonial; there are various pedestrian areas featuring a wide assortment of charming cafés and restaurants—some with outside tables where you can watch the world go by. Street performers provide curbside entertainment while musicians’ instruments fill the air with the warm sound of Mexican music.

This area fills up with lots of locals and visitors for Sunday lunch at one of the many fine restaurants here.

The nearby artisan village of Tonalá, also known for its ceramics and pottery, makes for an interesting day-trip from here or Guadalajara if you enjoy learning about and buying crafts.  You won’t find the elegant façades and the curated collections of art and crafts that are available in the stores in Tlaquepaque: this is a working craft village offering outlet prices, but you’ll need a keen eye and be able to negotiate in Spanish, to walk away with quality art at a decent price.

Key Attractions

Colonial Center

The colonial center begins at the Jardin Hidalgo, with its plaza, bandstand, gardens and church. Off here are several streets and alleyways that lead around the area of Tlaquepaque.

Museum in Tlaquepaque

The Museo Regional de la Ceramica (Regional Ceramics Museum) offers free admission and a glimpse into the different types and styles of ceramic crafted in Tlaquepaque. Like most museums in Mexico, it is closed on Mondays.

Great Restaurants

Many of the old colonial mansions have been converted into excellent cafes and restaurants. Sunday lunch is very popular here with locals and visitors alike; live bands can often be heard playing through the open windows and often a traveling minstrel will “do the rounds” at a restaurant offering to play traditional Mexican folk songs in return for a small charge per song.

Boutique Shopping

There are many boutiques selling arts and crafts in Tlaquepaque. Some sell exclusive designs while others will offer more common, but high quality, Mexican arts and crafts. This is not the place you will find many bargains, but you can be assured of the quality and authenticity of the goods.

Getting There & Around

By Air – The nearest airport to Tlaquepaque is also the main airport for flying into Guadalajara: Aeropuerto Internacional Libertador Miguel Hidalgo is 10 miles (16.5 km) south of Guadalajara. You can fly to Guadalajara from the US and other points in Mexico including Mexico City, Puerto Vallarta and Monterrey. Using ground transportation, it will take about 45 minutes to get into the center of Guadalajara; or about 20 minutes if you are staying in Tlaquepaque. For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.

By Bus – You can travel to Guadalajara on a luxury bus from Mexico City – the trip takes around 7-8 hours. Luxury buses drop passengers off at the new bus station in Guadalajara, which is actually near Tlaquepaque. For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car – Driving to Guadalajara / Tlaquepaque is very fast and efficient using the many high-speed roads that connect this region.  See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience.

Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico

Taxis – Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico, in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a price with the driver. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico

Buses – There are regular local buses from Guadalajara to Tlaquepaque and the journey takes around 20-30 minutes. Bus trips to local areas (within about 50 miles of Guadalajara) depart from the old bus station in Guadalajara, which is in the city center. You can take a local bus to nearby places including Lake Chapala (Chapala, Ajijic, Jacotepec). Connect to the Mexico Essentials section on Mexperience for information about traveling on Local Buses.

Tlaquepaque Essentials

Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found in the central area of Tlaquepaque. For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Restaurants

Google: Restaurants in Tlaquepaque

What to Buy in Tlaquepaque

The shops here specialize in art and craft work from all over Mexico, with a particular emphasis on up-market ceramics, bronze sculpture, papier-mâché, blown glass and embroidered cloth. Some shops sell exclusive designs while others will offer more mainstream, but high quality, Mexican arts and crafts. This is not the place you will find bargains, but every collection is carefully curated by the store’s owner and so you can be assured of the quality and authenticity of the goods you are buying.

Local Climate

Tlaquepaque’s climate is spring-like all year-round. The winter months do become cooler in the mornings and evenings, so bring a sweater with you if you’re traveling at these times. The warmest times are April, May and June. The rainy season runs from June through to September. Rains tend to come in the afternoon, are relatively short and fierce and leave the evenings dry and cooled off.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

By Marianne Carlson

Feria Maestros del Arte is an art show conceived from a trip in 2002 when a friend and I took a “four-day-adventure-shopping trip” to sixteen artisan villages between Ajijic and Pátzcuaro, in the state of Michoácan.

We knew that most of the incredible art we were seeing was not being sold anywhere in our area because as collectors, we would have seen it. Many artists live in remote areas and it is difficult and expensive for them to attend shows to sell their work.

I felt strongly that these talented, creative, people needed a continuous outlet to sell their work. Mexico’s art is disappearing because artists cannot sustain a living on their art alone. The thought of this trend continuing was more than my heart could bear — something had to be done.

I decided to organize a venue where artists could sell their work and all the money they made, they kept — no booth fee or percentage of sales would be charged, and they have no lodging expenses because of our “Hosting Program” where they are placed with local families for the three days they are at the show. All they would need to do is get to the show.

The first Feria was held in 2002 and I invited thirteen artists.

Last year, a total of sixty-nine artists from the states of Chihuahua, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Mexico, Hidalgo, Puebla, Veracruz, Michoacán, Jalisco, Guanajuato, Guerrero and Yucatán gathered together in Chapala, Jalisco, Mexico to exhibit and sell their art to collectors, galleries, museum buyers and the general public.

Since its inception, Feria Maestros del Arte has hosted twenty-two master artists featured in the landmark book “The Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art” published by Fomento Cultural Banamex.

A legal Mexican and US non-profit organization, Feria Maestros del Arte is organized by an army of volunteers; there are no paid personnel. For the show to be a viable venue for artists to sell their work at trade prices, as stated above, they are charged nothing to attend. In 2009, a grant from the U.S. even paid the artists’ travel expenses — it was the first year they didn’t have to pay a centavo to attend the show.

Educating the public to the plight of Mexican indigenous and folk art is a high priority of Feria Maestros del Arte. Bringing these artists to the public’s attention increases knowledge of Mexico’s history and heritage issues. Our project enhances the identity and traditional values of Mexico and contributes to the rescue and preservation of its art.

If you would enjoy seeing Mexican folk art at its best, consider traveling to Mexico for Feria Maestros del Arte this fall; this year’s event is being held between the 16th and 18th of November. I can assure you, this is a very safe area of Mexico — the largest expatriate population in the world lives here. It is also one of the most beautiful areas of Mexico situated on Mexico’s largest lake, Lake Chapala, less than one hour’s drive south of Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city.

We have some of the finest restaurants you may ever have experienced and wonderful B&Bs. Information about this area, as well as artists’ web pages with photos of their works, can be found on our website.

Contact Marianne
Marianne Carlson, coordinator and founder of the Feria can be contacted at mariannecarlson@gmail.com or by calling +52 (376) 765-7485.

Guanajuato was declared a Cultural Heritage of Humanity by the UNESCO in 1988 and Cervantino Capital of the Americas in 2005. Each year in October, this colonial city hosts the most important artistic and cultural festival in Latin America – the Festival Internacional Cervantino. The city provides an ideal stage for every field of arts and culture, and the festival has created a tradition that goes beyond Mexico’s borders; today it is one of the world’s most respected international cultural events.

The Festival Internacional Cervantino has been celebrated in Guanajuato since 1972 and is the result of the outstanding quality and tradition of its University’s Theater Group, especially its repertoire of plays from Spain’s Gold Era, and in particular, Don Quijote de la Mancha, written by Miguel de Cervantes y Saavedra, from whom the festival takes its name. The festival was originally known as the “Entremeses Cervantinos” (playlets) due to the one-act plays performed at the theater. On its 20th anniversary the event came to the attention of Mexico’s then president Luis Echeverría (1970-1976), who decided to create a festival of international quality to promote cultural, artistic and humanistic relations with other countries.

With support from the country’s National Council for Arts and Culture, the state government, the city, the University of Guanajuato, and several private sector sponsors, the Festival Internacional Cervantino attracts artists and companies from all cultural fields throughout the world. One way or another, every country has been represented at this festival over the years.

The events and activities for each festival are chosen based on their cultural wealth, scope, originality, innovation and international standing. As a member of the European Festivals Association and the Asian Scenic Arts Festivals Association, the Festival Internacional Cervantino is able to offer international variety and quality at each event.

The event offers an extensive selection of cultural programs from different countries including dance, music, visual arts, cinema, theater, conferences, and exhibitions. Each year different countries throughout the world and states within Mexico are invited to participate at the event. To date, Denmark, Norway, Finland, Sweden and the Mexican state of Nayarit have accepted invitations to participate at this year’s festival, being hosted from October 12th to 30th, 2011.

The Festival Internacional Cervantino is the most important annual event held in Guanajuato attracting both Mexican and international visitors. For nineteen exciting days this quiet colonial city buzzes with activity as close to 200,000 visitors are entertained with cultural and artistic performances from around the world.

Hotels become booked up months in advance for the festival, so if you plan to visit Guanajuato in October we recommend you book early.

See Also: Mexperience Guide to Guanajuato

Michelle Roos is from the United States; she has lived in Mexico for three years and made Patzcuaro her full-time home for two of those three.  Michelle is the founder and creator of ecomexico.org, which fronts a company she established to enable people to get to know Patzcuaro and its Lakeside Villages, with particular attention given to the matter of sustainable tourism.   Her website is a most excellent resource for people interested in Patzcuaro, as it covers eco and leisure travel and also purveys local knowledge and useful gateways for people who want to rent or buy property in the town.   Her direct experience of living, working and investing in Patzcuaro is reflected in the information published on her website: Michelle purchased a property here in Patzcuaro a couple of years ago; an old ruin near the center of town that has now been transformed into a beautiful and very comfortable colonial home.   As a direct result of her exceptional talents, which instinctively connect people with opportunities, coupled with the sheer hard work and efforts she has made to promote this town she holds so dear, Michelle is widely known and highly regarded in Patzcuaro by the expat community as well as many local businesses involved in travel and real estate.  She is a sterling example of a foreigner who came to Mexico and made a real contribution to the community where she chose to settle.   Life situations change, and Michelle is moving back to the States to be with and marry her fiancée.

Fred, Megan and their two children, are one of Patzcuaro’s longest-standing expatriate families living in Patzcuaro.   They arrived from the USA together with a baby and young toddler, to setup a company which designs, manufactures and exports very fine, top-of-the-range furniture.  Fifteen years on, their thriving business, Copper Instincts, a manufacturing enterprise that sources all its raw materials from around Patzcuaro, continues to thrive and demonstrates how Mexico’s rich natural resources, coupled with foreign expertise and contacts – and a huge amount of tenacity – can be combined to create a productive and fruitful work-life in Mexico.  Their two children, now fourteen and eighteen years old, are fully-bilingual as they grew up and studied in the local schools here.  Their parent’s entrepreneurial endeavors bequeathed them a unique and culturally diverse childhood experience; their eldest son is returning to the States to begin a university course next year.

Many of the expats connected with this town are artists, writers or in some way connected with the art world.

Patzcuaro’s finest art exhibition, which is on permanent display, is also Patzcuaro’s finest hotel.  Gemma Macouzet and Didier Dorval are fine artists and musicians with roots and connections in Canada and France.   The couple arrived in Patzcuaro one day, with the intention of purchasing some some textiles, before moving to Paris.  They instantly fell in love with this ancient highland town, and instead of going to Paris, they purchased a property which is also a national monument: Casa de la Real Aduana.  The property, which was in an advanced state of disrepair, took over two years to restore working with a team of thirteen full-time workers on-site.   The outcome is nothing short of magnificent; the attention to precise detail is clearly evident and exquisite; and although the couple created an impressive website to show off the space, the property must be visited to be truly appreciated.  Today, Casa de la Real Aduana is one of Mexico’s finest boutique hotels; small and intimate offering just five uniquely defined rooms: the beautifully restored and decorated chambers offer the utmost of luxury, convenience and comfort and each one is complimented with original works of fine art and antique furniture.   Using their artistic and musical connections, the owners often host concerts at the property; this last weekend two of Russia’s finest musicians: the cellist Tania Anisimva and Lydia Frumkin, a fine pianist and acclaimed piano professor, performed a breath-taking concert in the presence of a small, intimate, audience of around forty people.   Gemma and Didier are passionate about their art, their music, and Patzcuaro.  Their unequivocal commitment is a leading example of how talented expatriates, attracted by Patzcuaro’s character and charm, are helping to develop and transform this highland town.

Dan and Becky Brawner are Americans living and working between Nashville and Patzcuaro.  Dan is a professor of art and Becky is a freelance graphic designer.   They discovered Patzcuaro a small few years ago and decided to purchase and restore a property which they now enjoy for part of the year, and offer as a vacation rental at other times.  The home in Patzcuaro, which was once an old, run-down workshop, is situated amidst an authentic Mexican neighborhood just three blocks from the center of town.  Beautifully designed, built, and decorated, the property reflects the owners’ artistic passions as well as strengths in their professional fields.   Like many expats living here part-time, Dan and Becky would love to make Patzcuaro their principal home, although their lives and work commitments in the States prevent them, for now, from a full-time move to Mexico.

Bart Hrast, a surfer and photographer, is a relatively new expat resident in Patzcuaro and has opened an art gallery at #5 Buena Vista street, less than a block away from the basilica.  His gallery features a diverse range of artworks and photographic prints, providing an outlet and focal point for local and expatriate artists to exhibit, promote and sell their art.  If you come to visit Patzcuaro for a while, you will soon be presented with an opportunity to attend an art exhibition at Bart’s gallery, the local cultural center, or Mistongo, a gallery and restaurant-bar, situated at #4 Dr Coss street, around the corner from the Plaza Grande.  The art-related events which take place regularly here provide you with an opportunity to meet other expats and local artists, to socialize, and to browse the artwork on offer.

One of the key challenges for foreigners who are not retired but who have a desire to live in a town like Patzcuaro, is the question about how to earn a living in Mexico.  Fred and Megan brought their expertise and started a company that harnesses local resources and exports an exceptionally high-quality, hand-crafted, product to customers overseas; their business model tapped into a perennial issue that faces Mexico now: the country does not lack natural resources, but it reveals a gaping – and constant – expertise gap, which they bridged in their chosen work space.  However, most expatriates who come to live and work in Mexico will end up earning their crust by working in some kind of ‘knowledge’ field: working freelance in Mexico under contract to firms which may be based here in Mexico, but more often overseas, or as employees of their own ‘knowledge-economy’ company.

Some of the younger expats who have settled in Patzcuaro are making an investment with a view to full-time retirement in Mexico.  For now, they enjoy living in Patzcuaro part-time, while renting out their homes when they cannot be here.  Patzcuaro also attracts a significant number of ‘snow birds’: people who flee from harsh winter climates to more temperate environments here in Mexico, usually for three to six months of the year.  If you want to rent a house in Patzcuaro, or similar towns popular with people who overwinter in Mexico, you’ll need to make your plans ahead of time as the homes, like Casa Espejo which your writer is occupying for his month’s stay, book up quickly and you’re less likely to find a ‘last minute’ rental here between November and April.

Continued: A Month in Patzcuaro – Property