The sweeping landscape of Mexico’s central highlands (also known as the Mexican Altiplano) is home to some of the country’s most picturesque and agreeable colonial towns and cities which offer an abundance of character and culture—and the benefits of mountain living.

The benefits of mountain living in Mexico

Living at elevation —typically, Mexico’s inland colonial towns and cities are situated at elevations of at least 4,000 feet above sea level— offers several benefits:

Ideal climates

Many places situated at elevation in Mexico offer the benefit of year-round temperate, low-humidity, climates created by a combination of the locations’ latitude and an average elevation around 6,000 feet above sea level which make it a pleasure to live and be outdoors, and an ideal location to enjoy active outdoor activities.

Enjoy plenty of daylight all-year

Year-round and especially during the winter, you benefit from at least ten hours of daylight every day of the year, with no shortage of daylight hours in the winter, and you also enjoy extended light into the evenings during the late spring and summer months.  You can learn about climates through the seasons in Mexico here on Mexperience.

Fresh highland air and breathtaking views

Enjoy crisp, fresh, mountain air which complements the magnificent views from local vantage points, and elevations that can aid your good health and general well-being without being too high so as to become uncomfortable.

Access to good local infrastructure and amenities

Many of Mexico’s popular colonial highland towns and cities offer provincial living with plenty of local fresh food and produce markets, (much of it grown locally), independent shops and boutique traders, with accessibility to popular big-brand stores, outlets, and supermarkets as well as specialized stores offering foods and homewares foreign residents often seek out when living here. Most colonial cities also have adequate-to-excellent healthcare facilities locally; in smaller towns, more extensive facilities are available in larger nearby cities.

Well-connected to transport links

You’ll discover that the highland towns are well connected by modern roads, most are serviced by frequent intercity bus services, and some also have airports nearby. High-speed internet access is available in your home, as well as wireless data over advanced mobile networks which form part of Mexico’s extensive communications infrastructure.

Integrate into genuine local communities

Many of the colonial towns and cities offer you the opportunity to participate and integrate in local communities.  Here you can discover authentic neighborhoods and real local community spirit, and if you choose to, you can integrate with local lifestyles and community groups, and forge long-term friendships.

Considerations for mountain living in Mexico

Mountain living isn’t for everyone.  Some people yearn to be near the ocean with year-round warmth, whereas highland towns tend to be cooler—and may even get cold at times during the winter months.  A very small number of people find that they can’t adjust to living at higher elevations, while others find the mountain towns too remote, rural, or provincial for their lifestyle preferences or intentions.

If you’re unsure, visit for an extended stay

An ideal way to determine if mountain life in Mexico will suit you is to invest in a trial period —perhaps six months to a year— and see how you respond to the experience.  When you take the time to explore, you’ll discover thriving communities where, when you’re prepared to integrate, local people will come to know and greet you by name, you’ll cultivate appreciable relationships, you’ll give and receive value as you trade at the local markets through transactions which feel human and personal… and over time, you become the community you seek.

When you look with care you’ll also find the very best of Mexico in these places—people, culture, climate, food, amenities, and real local communities. For some, Mexico’s highland towns and cities become exceptionally special places to live.

Choosing between urban and (semi) rural settings

Other than Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Monterrey, Mexico’s highland towns and cities are situated in provincial (rural or semi-rural) settings and we recommend your consider whether living in the Mexican countryside would suit you, as well as giving careful thought to your lifestyle needs as a whole as you short-list potential places to live instead of looking at certain aspects in isolation.

As with other places you may consider moving to in Mexico, you’ll need to plan and prepare for your new lifestyle, you might need to acclimatize to the higher elevation, and you’ll need to be prepared to forge your own story here. Hundreds of thousands of foreign residents enjoy a good life in Mexico; with some considered choices and forward planning, you could as well.

Explore highland towns and cities in Mexico

Here are some of the more popular colonial towns and cities foreign residents have settled in, as well as some which are less well-known and gaining attention in recent times.

Mexico’s colonial heartland

Querétaro, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende for traditional colonial highland cities; Aguascalientes for a more contemporary living lifestyle; and Zacatecas if you’re seeking a mountain city off-the-beaten-track and on the edge of a mountain frontier.

South-central highlands

Cuernavaca, Tepoztlán, and Puebla.  These traditional provincial highland places are situated conveniently close to Mexico City and yet are far enough removed from the congestion of the capital to enjoy a genuine provincial atmosphere and feel.  For a more rustic option off-the-beaten track in this area, consider Taxco.

In the mountains west of Mexico City

The highland lakeside towns of Chapala, and Ajijic are home to the largest community of foreign residents in Mexico; the city of Morelia offers old-world colonial elegance, and the ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro offers an attractive blend of colonial indigenous cultures amidst an intimate colonial setting. If you’re seeking an urban lifestyle at elevation, Guadalajara offers vibrancy, culture, and all the benefits of a large metropolitan city, and is close to Ajijic, Chapala, and Jocotepec—small towns settled along the northern shoreline of Lake Chapala and home to tens of thousands of foreign residents, most from the US and Canada.

Further south, to Oaxaca and Chiapas

Oaxaca City remains one of the most authentic and cultured colonial cities in Mexico; and further south, in the breath-taking state of Chiapas, you’ll find the highland mountain town of San Cristobal de las Casas—somewhat off-the-beaten-track and close to the traditional indigenous mountain communities of San Juan Chamula and Zinacatán.

Discover more places to live in Mexico

Discover interesting and charming locations to live, work or retire in Mexico, and articles with helpful insights about choosing a place to settle here.

Resources for Living & Lifestyle in Mexico

Mexperience offers you a comprehensive online resource of information and local knowledge to help you discover Mexico, explore choices, find opportunities and plan a new life in Mexico.  Our resources include:

• Detailed knowledge about planning a move in Mexico
• Insightful articles about living and lifestyle in Mexico
• Detailed insights about retirement in Mexico
• Practical insights for planning your Mexico lifestyle
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Most (but not all) of Mexico’s colonial cities are situated at elevations of at least 5,000 feet above sea level and if the place you choose is situated in these high lands you can expect cooler and more temperate climates year-round than you’ll experience in colonial cities which are situated at lower elevation or nearer to the coasts where temperatures soar, particularly during the late spring and through the summer months.

During late fall and throughout the winter, early mornings, evenings, and nights are cooler in colonial cities—even chilly in some higher places that may also require the warmth of a fireplace or other heating system. The spring and fall climates are close to ideal in most of Mexico’s highland colonial cities, featuring a temperate ambiance with occasional rainfalls between otherwise undisturbed sunlight, shining across crisp and deep azure-blue skies.

The late spring and summer months in Mexico’s highland colonial cities are warm and can get quite hot.  Most regions experience seasonal rains between June and October each year; these often take the form of torrential afternoon or evening downpours which cool the high summer temperatures and make the local flora radiate with color and fragrance.

Which colonial cities are people moving to?  The two big ‘expat enclaves’ of San Miguel de Allende and Ajijic/Chapala have been popular with foreign residents for decades, and their lure and appeal is still attractive to many who visit and call these places their home, full or part-time.

Foreigners researching places to live in Mexico will usually come across popular colonial locations like San Miguel de Allende, Ajijic, and Cuernavaca. Other places that are less well-known but which have have been rising in popularity in recent years include: Mérida, Puebla, Guanajuato, Querétaro, and Oaxaca. For places somewhat off-the-beaten-path, you might also consider researching San Cristobal de las Casas, and Morelia (with nearby Pátzcuaro).  If you’re seeking a colonial setting near the coast consider Mazatlán, Manzanillo, and Campeche.

With the exception of the most popular colonial towns, Mexico’s colonial settings offer (generally speaking) lower property purchase and rental prices than equivalent land and homes situated at popular Mexican beach-side towns and resorts. However, house prices in colonial cities have risen substantially in recent years and property prices across Mexico are no longer the bargain they once were.  It’s also worth keeping in mind that lesser-known colonial locations don’t tend to generate the same level of property sales turnover as the most popular locations do, so if you buy land or property away from a fashionable area, it might take longer to sell.  You can learn all about property purchase and ownership in Mexico here on Mexperience.

We recommend above all else that you take time to step back and consider your lifestyle needs and short-list locations in Mexico that serve those needs.

If you’re looking for a long-term investment and a foothold in Mexico that will provide you with a stable home, a good climate, decent access by road (some cities also have airports not far away); a lower cost of living than the US, Canada and Europe; and a place where you can be surrounded by culture and heritage, do some research here on Mexperience to learn about Mexico’s colonial cities and then go and experience a few of them in person.  You may be pleasantly surprised.

San Cristobal de las Casas and neighboring Tuxtla Gutierrez and Comitan are in the state of Chiapas, a region east of Oaxaca and south of Villahermosa and which is, without question, Mexico’s most stunning scenic area; mostly wild and rugged, it is rich in indigenous life and culture.

Chiapas’s thickly wooded jungles, mountains and valleys, together with its traditional cultures and indigenous roots have kept its look, feel and style very distinct from the rest of Mexico.

Although there are some cities, symbols and events here which reveal the area’s colonial heritage, the population is still well established within its indigenous roots. Local people continue to live their lives here in accordance with certain customs and rituals.

Many argue that the natural beauty of this area has no parallel in Mexico; deep green forested valleys, awesome waterfalls and high mountains with deep canyons and gorges, a colossal wealth of flora, fauna and wildlife and glorious lakes make this area one of Mexico’s most awesome natural habitats.

Away from the larger towns, Spanish is a second language; local people have stayed true to their indigenous cultures and tongue. When you visit, you’ll see indigenous people going about their everyday life, often wearing their traditional dress.

San Cristobal de las Casas (“Sahn-Kris-toh-bahl-de-lahs-cahsas”) was once the state capital of Chiapas, when the state was under Guatemalan rule; it may still have been but for its reluctance at first to join union with Mexico; in 1892 it fell out of favor with the powers of the day and the capital was moved to neighboring Tuxtla Gutierrez.

San Cristobal de las Casas shares a similar history to that of indigenous Patzcuaro; deriving part of its name from Bartolome de la Casas, the bishop sent here by the Spaniards to rebuild bridges with the indigenous local population. Like Vasco de Quiroga in Patzcuaro, de las Casas endeared himself to the local population by promoting self-sufficiency and education.

San Cristobal is characterized by its peaceful and welcoming atmosphere, coupled with an artistic and bohemian flair which attracts many European visitors, especially.

The colonial streets and alleyways lined with red-roof tiles and white-washed walls beg wanderers to explore and discover the nooks and crannies; alleyways open up into picturesque arcades and plazas showing off their authentic colonial architecture and hosting churches, museums, cafés, restaurants and artisan workshops, among other delights.

The city is situated at 7,000 feet above sea level, in a lush green valley where the air is fresh and you can experience that unique clarity of highland light.

Although San Cristobal is the principal market town and commercial center in this area, it’s also the best hub from which to explore the surrounding indigenous villages and the magnificent natural beauty for which Chiapas is known.

With easy access most commonly by road from the state’s capital city, Tuxtla Gutierrez, good local infrastructure and amenities, and surrounded by some of Mexico’s most breath-taking scenery and unspoiled natural wonders, it’s no surprise that San Cristobal is Chiapas’s top destination and hub for further exploration of this alluring region in southern Mexico.

Tip: Don’t miss the coffee! Chiapas is one of Mexico’s (and the world’s) premier coffee growing regions. If you like coffee, make sure you taste some local blends; they are organic, and exceptional.

A Note About Photographs: Read the important photography rules and warnings in the Practical Information section below, which are especially relevant for the local villages surrounding San Cristobal.

Key Attractions

Colonial Center

Plaza 31 de Marzo (the main plaza) lies near the center of the colonial city and is a main meeting point for locals and visitors alike. On the north side of the plaza is San Cristobal’s Cathedral, on the west side of the plaza are the Municipal buildings where you can also find the local tourist information office.

Three blocks south is the Templo del Carmen with its archway crossing the road, once gateway to the city. Once you have seen the church you can go next door to the Instituto de Bellas Artes (Institute of Fine Arts), which offers art exhibitions and other art fairs from time to time.

Considered San Cristobal’s most beautiful church, the Templo y Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo completed around 1560, is situated north of the main plaza on Avenida 20 de Noviembre.

A further block south, you can visit the Tienda de los Artesanos de Chiapas (Chiapas’ Artisans Shop) where you can buy arts, crafts and textiles created locally, including replicas of the local dress worn by surrounding villagers.

For a vantage point view of San Cristobal, head to the Templo de San Cristobal and climb the steps of its tower. You’ll need to be pretty fit to get to the top, but the views are worth it.

Casa Na-Bolom

Meaning “House of the Jaguar” (Jaguars are Chipas’ ‘local mascot’) this elegant colonial mansion was most recently owned by a philanthropic couple from Switzerland, Gertrude Duby-Blom (who died in 1993), and her husband Frans Blom who died in 1963. After falling in love with Chiapas, they moved here and spent the rest of their lives exploring, surveying and studying the local indigenous societies and ecology, as well as educating and protecting the its peoples. Today the house is packed full of their work including photographs, archaeological finds and books.

No-Bolom is also a guest house and offers tours and investigatory expeditions of the local area. The tours are aimed at people who want to learn about the place and the people they are visiting. If you would like to experience life within a Lacandon community and learn how they make their bow and arrows or listen to their stories of old, book a trip with Na Bolom. Groups are kept purposefully small: 8 people maximum. Over the last 50 years Na Bolom has developed a trust and friendship with the Lacandon people that you won’t find with anyone else.

Museums in San Cristóbal

San Cristobal has a selection of fine museums.

Museo del Ambar de Chiapas (Amber Museum) is situated at the Ex-Convento de la Merced and displays a selection of Amber; Chiapas Amber is known for its purity and clarity.

Museo de Trajes Regionales (Regional Costumes Museum) needs an appointment to be seen; but if local costumes and dress interest you, this is a must see private collection of exhibits.

Museo de Culturas Populares (Popular Cultures Museum) houses temporary exhibits and photographs.

Cafe Museo – Chiapas is one of Mexico’s – and the world’s – premier coffee growing regions; and this cafe-museum is run by Coopcafe, a group of small-scale growers in Chiapas. The museum provides a history of coffee and coffee-growing; and the cafe offers the opportunity to taste the genuine article – pure, delicious organic Chiapas coffee. Don’t miss it!

Tours Through the Cañon del Sumidero (Sumidero Canyon)

Although this is closer to Tuxtla Gutierrez, Cañon de Sumidero is easily experienced as a day trip from San Cristobal. This spectacular canyon created by the Rio Grijalva; following the completion of the hydro-electric dam here in 1981, the area has now become a massive reservoir. You can now read our Complete Guide to the spectacular Sumidero Canyon & Sumidero Eco Park now open inside the canyon.

Eco and Adventure Tourism

Due it natural diversity, rich, fertile lands and eye popping topography, Chiapas is unsurprisingly one of the principal areas in Mexico for Eco and Adventure tourism. San Cristobal is one of the best areas in Mexico to enjoy eco and adventure travel and there are various operators who can help you to enjoy a spectacular outdoor travel experience in the region.

Near San Cristobal : Mountain Villages

You may want to consider an organized tour to experience these villages situated around San Cristobal de las Casas.

Discover the villages of Chamula & Zinacantan by clicking on the links below and get a brief summary of the other villages in the area:

San Juan Chamula

Discover San Juan Chamula

Zinacatan

Discover Zinacatan

Amatenango del Valle

On the highway between here and San Cristobal de las Casas is Amatenango del Valle: A hamlet that is famous for its local potters and pottery. The pottery here is still fired in the traditional way: by building a wood fire around the pieces and not in a kiln. Make sure you stop and see the array of pottery, and more recently, “animalitos” (little animals) on offer (although some of the animal pieces can be quite large, too). Prices are very affordable by western standards; some pieces are fragile, but they will wrap them carefully for you. Be sure to stop and buy.

See Also: Picture Gallery for Amatenango del Valle.

Aguacatenango

Just over an hour away by road from San Cristobal, this village is famous for its embroidery. The embroidery you’ll see being sold in San Cristobal all comes from here.

Tenejapa

On Thursdays to Sundays the market sets up here, and you can find some of the finest quality woven textile in the region. It’s not inexpensive, and the quality is superb.

Local Tours from San Cristobal de las Casas

If you are going to visit the local villages of San Juan Chamula and Zinacatan (see mini guides, above) it’s best to hire the services of a local guide. This is because these communities are distinct: they have customs and practices which will make little sense to an outsider without the explanations of someone with local knowledge of society and culture in the villages.

Getting There & Around

By Air – About 10 miles outside of San Cristobal is a small airport with flights to and fromMexico City, although it has been closed in recent years and the mountain climate, particularly fog, often prevent flights from taking off and landing, especially in the winter months. If you want to come from/go to San Cristobal you may be better off traveling by air from nearby Tuxtla Gutierrez. , a 90 minute road journey from San Cristobal. Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for Airlines.

By Bus – Regular long distance buses make the journey from Mexico City to Tuxtla Gutierrez daily; the journey takes around 15 hours and San Cristobal is a further hour-and-a-half from Tuxtla Gutierrez. The road between Tuxtla Gutierrez and San Cristobal is absolutely stunning. Regional buses also travel daily and frequently from Villahermosa, Campeche, and Merida to and from San Cristobal de las Casas. For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car – There are now fast roads connecting this region to Merida, Cancun, Oaxaca, Mexico City. The drive is a long one from Mexico City, but you’ll be rewarded by some stunning scenery. Most people tend to fly to the region to Tuxtla Gutierrez) and rent a car locally or use regional buses to get around (see buses, above). Flying to the region is a more sensible options unless you have a specific reason for driving to Chiapas. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience.

Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico and connect to the Mexperience Travel Center to reserve your Rental Car.

Local Buses – Local buses are available to take you around town and are very inexpensive. Most of San Cristobal is accessible on foot.

Taxis – Taxis in most of Mexico’s colonial towns and cities are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico, in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a price with the driver. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico

San Cristóbal Essentials

Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found in the downtown area of San Cristobal de las Casas. During business hours, they and the Casas de Cambio will buy traveler’s cheques and cash from you as well. For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Internet Access: Internet cafes can be easily found in towns and cities across Mexico and WiFi is increasingly commonplace–from cafes, shops, hotels, and some cities even offer free WiFi in some defined public spaces.

Driving in Chiapas – Safety Advice

If you are driving independently in this region, using a rental car or your own vehicle, it’s important to heed some special advice.

It’s best to keep off all highways after dark, unless you know them well, have good local knowledge and a good reason to travel at night.

The highway from San Cristobal to Palenque (Highway 199) must NOT be traveled on after dark. This road cuts through some extremely remote territory including, in the latter stages, sweltering jungle.

The above also applies to Highway 307 between Palenque and Bonampak / Yaxchilan. Most travelers join others and see these places as part of an organized tour; however if you drive there yourself, you should consider joining the convoy of tours which leave early in the morning and get back to Palenque before dusk.

Military Checkpoints: Expect to pass through at least one, but probably several of these on your road trip through Chiapas. Don’t be alarmed, the soldiers may or may not check your car’s trunk; they are polite, respectful and can even provide local advice and directions if you need it.
See Also: Military Checkpoints in Mexico.

Special Note About Photography: The people in this region do not, as a rule, like photographs taken of them and the things they own. In some of the surrounding villages, it is prohibited to take photographs all together, with those who do not comply facing equipment confiscation, fines and even temporary imprisonment. Ask before you take photographs of people and their possessions; you may be asked to pay a small fee for the privilege.

See Also: Photography Etiquette in Mexico.

What to Buy in San Cristobal de las Casas

San Cristobal is an excellent place to buy locally-produced arts and crafts, as well as jewelry and textiles.

Casa de las Artesanias, on Av. Niños Heroes, stocks samples of every craft practised in the state of Chiapas.

Sna Jolobil (meaning ‘weaver’s house’) on Av. Lazaro Cardenas, is a co-operative of textile weavers. Quality and prices are high and the work they create is beautiful.

Lagrimas de la Selva, on Av. Hidalgo, sells locally produced jewelry, crafted princiappyl from local stones, particularly amber.

Local Climate

San Cristobal de las Casas is a town situated in the mountains of Chiapas. The high altitude and mountainous terrain make the climate in this area varied. It can get quite warm in the summer and cold in the winter. Rains can come at any time, but you will also need to pack protective cream and a hat to guard against the sun. When you pack for Chiapas, pack clothes for all weathers; in the winter months you will need to ensure you pack a stock of warm and waterproof clothes.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

The Chamulas have always been a fiercely independent people. As part of the Tzotzil community, they resisted the Spanish upon their arrival in 1524 and later staged a famous rebellion in 1869, attacking the nearby colonial settlement of San Cristobal.

The small town, about 10km (6 miles) from San Cristobal, is a key attraction as part of a tour of local villages around San Cristobal and is best experienced with the help of a local guide, who can give insight and local knowledge that will help you to make some sense of the distinct culture and customs practiced here.

San Juan Chamula is the principal town of the Tzotzils, with a population of around 80,000— it is also the main religious and economic center of the community.

Like neighboring Zinacatan, the Chamulas also are very private people. They do not tolerate well people taking pictures of them or their temples. See Photography section. Like other indigenous communities in this region, they can be identified by the clothes they wear: in this case distinctive purples and pinks predominate. All the clothes they wear are hand made locally. The wool on the sheep, cleaning, dyes and knitting are all obtained “in-house”: nothing is purchased externally. Sheep are sacred here: they are treated, protected and mourned on passing as any other member of the family. If you are driving through this region take extreme precautions with sheep that may wander into the road.

Cultural Insight

75% of Chiapas’ populous is made up of indigenous peoples. Chiapas’ indigenous people live within 9 distinct communities, each with its own language, traditions, costumes, belief systems & patron saint, spiritual leaders & healers and rituals that create a complete and distinct culture. The Tzotzil culture is submissive by western standards: women always follow behind the men; men chop the firewood, but women carry it; you will never see a woman wearing a hat.

Each community has its own identity which is most visible by the colors and design of the clothes they wear: something that is strictly adhered to—you can always tell which community a person is from (whether they are a baby or an old man or woman) by the clothes they wear. People from different communities do not marry; neither must they detach themselves from the religious protocols set out by the community: to do so causes expulsion from it, leaving the couple (and their offspring) to fend for themselves outside of the protection and structure of the communities they were born into.

Religion here is a mixture of Catholicism and Maya Ritual. Chamulas revere St John the Baptist above Jesus Christ; St John’s image is more prevalent inside the church. The Temple of San Juan (St John) is covered in pine needles: the pine tree is an important part of Chamula culture: their towns and villages are surrounded by pine trees. Symbolism is strong: coca-cola is used in rituals, an apparent substitute to Atole (corn based drink) made from black maize; eggs are used to absorb evil; Agua Ardiente (cane based alcohol) is used as a substitute for wine… religion, politics and rituals are deeply intertwined; the community leaders are also spiritual leaders & healers. See Attractions, below for more information about the Temple at San Juan.

As you drive or wander through this region, expect to see a world far removed from anything you expect in a developed country. You’ll see men and women working the fields using rudimentary tools and elbow grease. The living here is simple: women wake up early to cook and tend to family needs: men go out to chop firewood, ready for their wives to collect it, and later will work the fields.

The lifestyles, culture and rituals you’ll see in these communities may not make much sense if you try to align them with an industrialized culture: it’s a key reason why having a good, knowledgeable local guide —who will be able to share important insights and local knowledge with you— is essential to get the most out of a visit to this region and especially the small rural villages.

Attractions

San Juan Chamula and its surrounding villages offer awesome insights into a culture completely distinct to what you experience if you live in an industrialized nation. A highlight of a visit to San Juan is most often the town’s (and community’s) main Temple, where people from all over the nearby villages arrive to conduct rituals, pray and seek healing. There is a small fee to enter; tickets are purchased at the tourist office. Do not take your camera openly into the church; put it in a bag or pocket or in its case. It will be confiscated if you even attempt to take a picture inside. Do not wear any hats inside the church, either. Experiencing this church leaves most visitors with an extremely powerful impression: the pine needle carpet, the kneeling people chanting in front of candles placed in very specific arrangements (as instructed by local healers), the endless ocean of these candles, the animal (chicken) sacrifices; chanting healers using eggs and bones; the strong smell of incense— it is possibly the most unusual church you will ever visit. We cannot show you any pictures of the inside: you will need to visit this place and experience it first hand for yourself.

The market square directly in front of the temple provides an opportunity to buy local foods, crafts and textiles. Expect a barrage of ambulant vendors to approach you offering their chattels for sale; be sure to bring plenty of small bills and loose change to shop here.

Photography

More than anywhere else in this region – you must take extreme care with your photography here. It is completely prohibited to take photographs inside any church, or of any ritual or any religious leader or healer. The least that will happen is that you will have fresh produce hurled at you and your camera; you can also have your camera confiscated, be fined and even imprisoned. The warnings are not lip service – these people are serious about their privacy: Always ask a person before you photograph them or their property.

Catholicism is interwoven with old Mayan tradition in this community and the annual festivals reflect this strongly. The most important festival is that of St John the Baptist, held between June 22nd and 25th.

Local Climate

The high altitude and mountainous terrain make the climate in this area variable. It can get quite warm in the summer and cold in the winter. Rains can come at any time, but you will also need to pack sunscreen and a hat to guard against the sun. When you pack for Chiapas, pack clothes for all weathers; in the winter months you will need to ensure you pack a stock of warm and waterproof clothes.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

Up in the mountains, around 7 miles (11 km) from San Cristobal de las Casas is the small village of Zinacatan; translated it means “Valley of Bats”. The village is often included as part of a tour of local villages around San Cristobal and is best experienced with the help of a local guide, who can give insight and local knowledge that will help you to gain an appreciation of the distinct culture and customs here.

The village dates back to Aztec times, when local salt mines were exploited and formed a major part of the economic activity. Today, the flower trade is the principal means by which the local people make a living. The people of Zinacatan have always been naturally talented trades people and merchants—perhaps a characteristic passed down from their Aztec ancestry.

Like neighboring San Juan Cholula, (see Mini Guide from San Cristobal Page) the people in Zinacatan enjoy their privacy; like other peoples in this region, they can be identified by the clothes they wear: in this case distinctive purples and pinks predominate. All the clothes they wear are hand-made locally. The wool on the sheep, cleaning, dyes and knitting are all obtained “in-house”—nothing is purchased externally. Sheep are sacred here; they are treated, protected and mourned on passing as any other member of the family. If you are driving through this region take extreme precautions with sheep that may wander into the road.

The most important local event here is held around the 10th of August: the festival to honour the Virgen de la Candelaria. Expect parties, processions and special markets during this time.

Cultural Insight

75% of Chiapas’ populous is made up of indigenous peoples. Chiapas’ indigenous people live within nine distinct communities, each with its own language, traditions, costume, belief systems & patron saint, spiritual leaders & healers and rituals that create a complete and distinct culture. The culture is patriarcal by western standards: women always follow behind the men; men chop the firewood, but women carry it; you will never see a woman wearing a hat.

Each community has its own identity which is most visible by the colors and design of the clothes they wear: something that is strictly adhered to—you can always tell what community a person is from (whether they are a baby or an old man or woman) by the clothes they wear. People from different communities do not marry; neither must they detach themselves from the religious protocols set out by the community: to do so causes expulsion from it, leaving the couple (and their offspring) to fend for themselves outside of the protection and structure of the communities they were born into.

As you drive or wander through this region, expect to see a world far removed from anything you expect in a developed country. You’ll see men and women working the fields using rudimentary tools and elbow grease. The living here is simple: women wake up early to cook and tend to family needs: men go out to chop firewood, ready for their wives to collect it and later will work the fields.

The lifestyles, culture and rituals you’ll see here may not make much sense if you try to align them with an industrialized culture: it’s a key reason why having a good, knowledgeable local guide—who will be able to share important insights and local knowledge with you—is essential to get the most out of a visit to this region and especially the small rural villages.

Attractions

Like San Juan Chamula, Zinacatan offers awesome insights into a culture completely distinct to what you experience if you live in an industrialized nation. The main attractions in the center of the village are two churches, both worth a look, and some local market stalls selling crafts. There is an opportunity to buy some flowers and local crafts and take part in an Open House Experience – see below.

Open House Experience

Open House – Unique to Zinacatan, local tour operators in arrangements made with local people, bus visitors to Zinacatan to witness the humble homes of the villagers, eat some traditional food prepared in front of them at the house on an open fire grill or hotplate and buy locally produced crafts and textiles on display at the houses. See the Zinacatan Picture Gallery for pictures of an Open House experience.

Local Climate

The high altitude and mountainous terrain make the climate in this area highly variable. It can get quite warm in the summer and cold in the winter. Rains can come at any time, but you will also need to pack sunscreen and a hat to guard against the sun. When you pack for Chiapas, pack clothes for all weathers; in the winter months you will need to ensure you pack a stock of warm and waterproof clothes.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico