One of the best known works of Spanish literature is such a one – Lazarillo de Tormes.  The delightful 16th century satirical novel is standard fare in schools and is frequently used as an introduction to Spanish literature for both students of Spanish and native speakers.

The novel is considered to be a pioneering work of the genre known as picaresca, to which the later, even better-known Don Quixote de la Mancha belongs.  It’s also plugged as a fine example of Spain’s golden century, and serves to introduce the subject of censorship by the Spanish Inquisition, since it was one of the works that made the Index of Forbidden Books, a sort of a sixteenth century hall of fame.

The book is an autobiographical account of the fictional life of Lázaro, an orphaned boy who describes his adventures with a series of masters, each one a typical character of the society of the time.

And while Don Quixote is better known than Lazarillo, it’s probably not better read, on account of the length of it.  One of the advantages of Lazarillo is that it’s very short, so short that anyone can finish it without the excuses and other dubious claims made by those (of us) who made it some distance past the other’s introduction to an “idle reader” and intend to finish it one day.

Lazarillo should probably grace any bookshelf that includes Spanish works, but the text is also available online at a number of sites, both in Spanish and English.

You might imagine this would lead to a well-informed population, although the programs appear designed primarily to make sure you get to work twice as neurotic as you would have done had it just been the heavy traffic, and not also the frantic flicking back and forth through the radio stations as you navigate your way around an inordinate number of advertising breaks.

Amid this on-air array of news, phone-ins, trash music, noise, and seemingly endless and fruitless discussion on “topics of the day” fit to cure insomnia, lies an oasis of frequency modulation.

Radio Universal—88.1 FM* in Mexico City, and also available online—has two hours a day of Beatles music and trivia—8 to 9 a.m., and 1 to 2 p.m.—a harking back to the 1970s when “Beatles hours” were as frequent and as competitive as today’s news.

Back then, when English was less widely spoken, The Beatles were referred to as Los Beatles and shamelessly pronounced Los Beetlays. Now that the cuarteto Liverpool is making a bit of a comeback among the savvy Internet generation, the group is pronounced more like Beadles—probably the U.S. influence.

This doesn’t mean a return of Beatlemania, but rather that any iPhone worth its salt is expected to have at least a smattering of retro bands and in that sense, a member of the earphone set will happily concede that the Beatles had “buenas rolas“—and perhaps in the same breath ask: “John Lennon was one of the Beatles? Oh. I thought so.”

* For decades, Radio Universal broadcast on 92.1 FM until 2016 when the frequency changed.  The exact reason why is unclear, although it appears related to the term of the contractual frequency concession, which ended in June 2016.  Frequent listeners and fans won’t mind the frequency change, and in these days of digital airwaves, where people listen online and in-car radios automatically scan the networks and display key information like the station name, it probably won’t make much difference anyway.

But on one particular kind of Friday in Mexico —viernes quincena— when pay day coincides with the last day of the week, the congestion is even greater.  Not just the traffic thickens. As the working people have money to spend, this day you can find yourself in long lines for restaurant tables, cinema tickets, or at the supermarket checkout.

People mill around at malls, and finding a parking spot can be like looking for a needle in a haystack. (Navigating the narrow underground parking lots is a particularly useful skill to develop in busy cities.)

The advent of direct deposit for wages did away with much of the lining-up at banks to cash checks, which in years past was about as daunting a prospect as can be imagined. But people in Mexico still often prefer to use cash so lines at ATMs have replaced many of the lines at bank branches.

What the British call a fortnight the Mexicans call the quincena—a 15-day period between pay days. And as most wages are paid bi-weekly, the pay day is also referred to as la quincena.

The noticeable buzz of commercial activity illustrates the fact that much of the working and middle classes, here as elsewhere, live from one paycheck to the next. Sales numbers from the retailers association Antad, and from its biggest member Walmart reflect this. Months that have an extra Saturday —a typical shopping day— tend to see bigger increases in sales, and the effect is even greater when the weekends coincide with payment of la quincena.

Officially, pay days are on the 15th and 30th of each month, or the nearest prior working day. So if the 15th or 30th falls on a weekend, wages should be paid on the Friday before. Pay days that fall on the Monday can be devastating for weekend plans.

And as there are 24 pay day quincenas per year (52 weeks), inevitably there are a number of quincenas largas, or long quincenas. These are usually following months with 31 days, and they can become even longer if the preceding pay was deposited ahead of a weekend.

Social media provides many examples of the anxiety surrounding the timing of deposits and the efficiency of HR and payroll departments. The X account @MundoGodinez addresses with considerable humor the daily life of the typical Mexican office worker, and la quincena looms large as a subject at the front of most minds.

See also: El Aguinaldo

The birds living in the capital —of which there are a considerably large number for such a vast expanse of concrete and bitumen— find their dawn-welcoming choruses competing for ears with the continuous rush of tires on tar, the roar of diesel combustion, and piercing shrieks from the whistles of policemen trying to keep it all moving along.

Perhaps not surprisingly, noise is something of a status symbol for the chilangos as they struggle to be noticed among 20 million others.

The owners and operators of the ubiquitous micros —shuttle buses— may well skimp when it comes to seating arrangements, faulty light bulbs, or sticky doors, but spare no expense when rigging up sound systems for the apparent entertainment of the driver alone. From the intricate set-up of tweeters and woofers, no one is spared the blast of música tropical, corridas, or rock en español.

In case this isn’t enough, some replace the standard horn with a series of trumpets pumping out Yankee Doodle or La Cucaracha, both proclaiming “make way for the raucous.”

The penchant for forcibly sharing dissonant tastes extends to the owners of cars, many of whom roll down their windows to let fellow motorists and pedestrians appreciate the finer points of disco, rap, or hip-hop—at full volume.  Pathos comes to mind as the driver tries to shout “look at me” through the speakers, but actually insists, “listen to this awful din.” None of the loudies seem to like Simon & Garfunkel.

And, as elsewhere, even in the best of homes decibels rather than premises, inference, and deduction are the main currency for settling differences in points of view.  Here, the more the merrier combines with the louder the better to produce some ear-splitting enforcement of opinion, making the expression, el que calla otorga, (whoever says nothing, consents) somewhat redundant.

Learning about and respecting local customs and social practices is an integral part of assimilating a new lifestyle in a country that is foreign to your home culture.

This guide helps you to navigate Mexico’s contemporary social etiquette and get acquainted with the social graces practiced here. It can also help to prevent you from making embarrassing or unnecessary faux pas.

Becoming familiar with Mexican social etiquette

This guide provides you with a detailed primer about Mexican social etiquette in everyday situations to help you learn about and adapt to local customs. This guide shares valuable insights if you plan to move to Mexico to live, work or retire.

If you plan to work in Mexico, whether you’re living here or visiting Mexico on a business trip, this guide in combination with our Guide to Business Etiquette in Mexico will help you to prepare for your meetings and negotiations.

Social graces and language

Mexico has very polite and courteous mannerisms built-in to its social norms and language. Politeness, patience, and tolerance in all situations —especially in difficult or frustrated ones— is always appreciated, and ultimately rewarded in Mexico.

Conversely, a display of impatience, anger, frustration, or lack of general respect in formal or informal situations can tend to fall on ‘deaf ears’ when dealing with most people in Mexico.

Although those around you may not outwardly react to your conflictive behavior, the ultimate outcome in a situation could be made worse for you through deliberate obstruction or total rejection of your wishes, not because it is impossible to fulfill them, but as a response to what is deemed to be your impoliteness.

Language formalities in Mexico

Politeness is built-in to social graces of Mexican culture, and this is most apparent in use of Spanish language.

• It’s common to use the Spanish language in its formal context —Usted— when dealing with people you do not know or who are senior to you.
• For friends, close associates, and informal situations, the informal —Tú— form of language is usually more appropriate.
• The use of formal language in informal situations in Mexico is often employed as a means to express irony, for example.

To better understand, and ultimately assimilate elements of Mexican social culture, you’ll need a good working knowledge of Spanish and spend time absorbing the nuances of how Mexican Spanish is employed everyday situations.

If your Spanish is rusty (or you’re monolingual), a language course can help.

When you have at least a basic working knowledge of Spanish, Mexperience’s PinPoint Spanish series helps you understand the nuances of how language is used in Mexico.

The etiquette of meeting & greeting people in Mexico

Meeting & greeting formalities are important in Mexico. Following social protocols will demonstrate your interest and sincerity, whereas ignoring them may be interpreted by others as coldness, or outright impoliteness.

Personal space

Mexicans tend to stand closer to each other than people do in the USA and Europe. This might feel a bit awkward to you at first if you are commonly used to having two feet or more of ‘air’ between you and other people (and especially those of the same gender as you), but in Mexico it’s quite common for people to stand and converse more closely than that with each other.  You don’t want to get too close, but stepping back too far may be taken as a sign of mistrust.

Men meeting & greeting other men

Men always shake hands when they meet and before they depart each other’s company.

Furthermore, an abrazo (hug) is shared between friends and may also be shared business associates with an established and productive working relationship. If you are unsure about whether to hug, allow the other person to lead: if, while shaking hands, he pulls you in toward him, follow through with your left arm on lightly his back—and give him 2 or 3 pats on the back.

Men meeting & greeting other women

It’s appropriate and courteous for a man to bow slightly when meeting a woman, regardless of familiarity, and whether the situation is a social or business occasion.

In business situations where familiarity is not yet established, men will politely shake women’s hands when they meet, and before they depart.  It is less usual for women to expect a kiss on the cheek, and most women will simply offer a handshake.

In social situations, and in business situations where a working relationship has been established, women might learn toward you to kiss when they are shaking your hand and if they do, you should follow through with a light kiss on the cheek—and only one kiss.

In regard to hugging, an abrazo (hug) is shared between friends and may also be shared between business associates with an established and productive relationship—hugs are light, and brief.  In business settings, men ought to allow the woman to lead in this matter.

Women meeting & greeting other women

In situations where women already know each other, women will always hug and kiss each other on the cheek.

When women are being introduced for the first time, whether socially or in a business context, a light handshake is a minimum gesture, and it’s also more common for women to share a light kiss and/or a light hug on a first meeting, but not always—wait for your host to lead if you’re unsure.

When departing, a handshake is a minimum gesture in a business context, and in social situations, and where business familiarity is well established, it is quite likely that women will kiss on the cheek and hug before they depart.

Before you part company

It’s important to say good-bye to people properly in Mexico. Leaving a meeting or situation without saying good-bye may be construed as poor form, impoliteness, or coldness on your part.

It’s not appropriate to simply say good-bye from a distance after you have been meeting somewhere together; there should be some physical contact, for example shaking of hands or hugs. See the section earlier in this guide for more insights about greeting protocols.

The use of professional titles in Mexico

Professional titles are an important part social and language etiquette in Mexico —they can be significant status symbol in some professional circles— and even in some informal situations.

Professionals with a degree are not referred to as Señor or Señora or Señorita in professional (and some social) situations, but instead by their professional title.

The most common professional titles in Mexico

When someone is using their professional title, they will be addressed as [Title] First name and Last Name, for example, La Licenciada Mariana Sanchez.

Here are the most common titles you will encounter in Mexico:

Licenciado/a — This is the most common and used to address anyone with a professional degree. Often used for addressing lawyers and Notary Publics, and any senior office worker, senior manager, or official.

Ingeniero/a — This refers to an engineer, and may be used when talking formally to anyone working in an engineering environment, and examples include: building and construction (but see Arquitecto, below), senior staff or managers working in manufacturing or design, and experts in information technology.

Doctor/a — Anyone who has earned a Doctorate in their discipline may refer to, or present, themselves as Doctor/a; it’s most commonly used to address professionals working in medical and pharmaceutical fields.

Arquitecto/a — This title is specifically reserved for those with a professional degree in architecture.

Maestro/a — This term is versatile, and can be used to describe a teacher, a master crafts person, someone who is adroit in the fine arts, and also an experienced or highly skilled builder or trades person, including a plumber, for example.  Read this article for further insights.

Professor/a — This term is used almost exclusively in academia, or to address an academic professor who happens to be working in an industrial or office environment.

When to use professional titles

Although professional titles remain an important and an integral part of social etiquette and language use in Mexico, it’s also reasonable to acknowledge that they are not as important as they have been in previous eras—especially among younger generations.

However, keep these points in mind:

• In the context of formal situations and/or situations of (legal) dispute or argument between parties, professional titles will often not only be employed, but emphasized, and this is part of the formality in those types of circumstances.
• When you are being introduced to someone by somebody else, the person making the introduction might refer to the third person by their professional title and in this case, follow the example and refer to the person by their title.
• If the person you are meeting immediately refers to themselves using their professional title, take that as a cue to know that the conversation will be formal, even if the situation may be a social or informal one.
• You might at some point during the course of a conversation be invited to use perhaps a first name—but the other party must lead this; never assume familiarity.

Dining etiquette in Mexico

Whether you’re dining our formally or informally with others in Mexico, there are certain rules of etiquette to consider as part of the gathering. Here are some local insights about the etiquette of eating out and dining socially here.

Invitations and bill settlement protocols

Regardless of whether the meal is informal, formal, or to discuss (potential) business matters, there are a few graces to consider about invitations and bill settlement.

• If you invite someone to eat out at a restaurant, it is presumed (and expected) that you will settle the bill, including the tip.
• If you are invited out to eat at a restaurant, it is also presumed that your host will settle, and polite to let them do so.
• It is customary for those who have been invited out to eat at a restaurant to offer to pay but this is a social grace, and one that should always be kindly and politely declined.
• If you are invited out to a restaurant for a meal you, too, should offer to pay, and then gracefully accept when your kind offer is politely declined.
• Splitting the bill is not typically practiced in Mexico, except in the case of close friends, or family. (Note: Restaurants will take split payment from patrons if asked to do so.)

Formats for breakfast, lunch or dinner, and supper

The format and length of meals out can vary and is most usually aligned with the time of day, type of meal, and the occasion.

Social breakfasts may last for thirty minutes if the parties have a bust day ahead of them, or for two or more hours, depending on the situation.

Lunch or dinner is the main meal of the day in Mexico, and typically starts between 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. You should always plan to spend at least two hours for this meal. It’s impolite to rush off immediately afterwards, unless there’s a prior understanding that you or the other party has commitments to attend.

Dinners and suppers in Mexico tend to be ‘friends and family’ affairs; supper is taken from any time after 8 p.m. and can start as late as 10 p.m.  Business dinners and suppers are uncommon except between close business associates.

Being invited to dinner to a person’s own home is quite an honor, especially if the relationship is relatively new, or you have recently been cultivating a working or business relationship. You may take wine and/or flowers if you have been invited to dinner at someone’s home.  If you only take one item, we recommend you take flowers.  See gift-giving, later in this guide, for more insights.

Some observations on table etiquette

Here are some notes and tips in relation to table etiquette when you are dining in Mexico, whether at a restaurant or at someone’s home:

• If you are at a restaurant and dining formally, it’s customary to allow your host to order for you. If you are the host, it’s customary to ascertain your guest’s choices and order accordingly on their behalf.
• If you are dining informally, it’s more common for each person to order their own food directly with the waiter.
• If you don’t read/speak Spanish, some restaurants may have a menu in English, or the menu might be bilingual.  If you’re the host, ensure that someone is at the table who can translate if your Spanish is not good; if you are the guest and there’s only a menu in Spanish, ask the host for guidance.
• Excess drinking is frowned upon in polite company Mexico; always regulate your alcohol intake when taking meals out on social or business occasions.
• It is local customary to offer toasts; the traditional toast in Mexico is “¡Salud!” (health).
• It is customary for the host to say “buen provecho,” or perhaps just “provecho” before commencing a meal; and might be combined with a toast of ¡Salud!  The word provecho is the linguistic equivalent of the French, “bon apetit.“
• Some foods, like tacos, tortas and tostadas are eaten using your fingers; using a knife and fork may be impractical and even look comical; if in doubt, follow the lead of your host(s).

Tipping etiquette at restaurants in Mexico

Mexico has a strong tipping culture and, if you are settling the bill, you must include a tip (unless the service was poor, that is unlikely).

• 10% to 15% of the total bill is customary, depending on the class of establishment and level of service you received.
• At Mexican diners and fondas and non-fancy restaurants 10% is sufficient; at higher-end restaurants and bistros, 15% is expected for good service.
• The 18%-25% rates now often expected at high-end restaurants in the United States are not practiced in Mexico; 15% is considered quite acceptable.

Time and punctuality in Mexico

The English are so well known for their punctuality that, in Mexico, there’s a phrase people might use immediately after agreeing a time with you, “hora inglesa,” literally translated means “English time.”  The inference is that the time agreed should be strictly adhered to.

For social events, you could arrive 30 minutes later than the time on the formal invitation, or communicated by the host in some other way. In many countries, people rarely show up for informal parties at the exact time, preferring to arrive a little later on, and in Mexico this is quite common.

If you are sending out invitations to host a social gathering, whether its formal or informal, keep in mind that most guests are unlikely show up at the precise time you set on the invitation.

Importantly, it is not customary to define an ‘end time’ for social occasions in Mexico. Sometimes invitations to very formal events might specify a time at which the event will end, but in Mexico the end-time on your invitations ought be left open-ended, and no end time should be specified on the invitation.

Dress code in Mexico

How people dress is another important aspect of Mexican social culture.  Here are some insights about attire depending on the climate and social or business situation.

Attire is influenced by climate in Mexico

The dress code in Mexico is in good part influenced by the local climate. Suits and heavy dresses in hot climates may not commonly be worn even for some formal situations (check locally) in which case smart-casual clothes which are light, comfortable, and elegant is often worn in more formal situations in hotter climate zones, whereas heavier formal attire (or heavier smart casual clothing) is often used in temperate and cooler climates.

Formal meetings in temperate climate zones

For formal occasions in temperate climates —including business meetings, weddings and funerals, and other somber or serious occasions— men should always wear a suit and tie and women a formal dress.  During colder months, overcoats and scarves may be worn, and it’s prudent to carry an umbrella during the rain season.

Formal meetings in hot climate zones

Except for very formal situations (and at venues where the building is air conditioned), attire for most formal meetings in hot climates is characterized by light and elegant clothing.  Heavy suits and dresses are simply impractical in hot, humid, environments.  When dressing formally in a hot climate pay special attention to footwear; overall, “simple elegance” is what is called for.

Informal gatherings

For informal occasions, smart-casual or informal attire may be appropriate depending on the venue and situation.

For casual social gatherings, people’s attire tends to match the local climate: lighter for hotter climates, heavier smart-casual clothes for temperature and cool climates.  Beach shorts and T-shirts are commonly worn at informal gathering with friends coastal locations and in other hot climates; however, if you are meeting informally at a party where you don’t know that many people, something closer to smart-casual might be a better choice, absent a theme, e.g. pool or beach party.

During more formal or special occasions, for example birthdays and anniversaries, people will tend to dress-up.  Older men might wear a coat or suit (with or without a necktie) whereas younger men and boys tend to sport smart casual attire.  Older women will typically wear a formal dress (lighter materials in hot climates) and younger women and girls will wear smart-casual dresses.

Wedding attire in hot climates

Heavy suits are impractical in hot climates (e.g. Mérida in the summer or along the coasts) and so wedding attire might be less formal in hotter places, depending on the venue. Some weddings have “themes” in which case you ought to attend in attire to match. Check with the wedding hosts (or wedding planner if there is one).

Meeting for the first time

If you are meeting people for the first time, it’s better to dress conservatively, especially if the meeting is for business or some other (potential) formal working association.

Attire ought to match the climate (see above), with an emphasis on simple elegance and attention to appropriate footwear.  Neutral colors including white (ideal for hot climates), navy, black or gray (better in temperature climates); or conservatively bright spring colors are ideal.

Dressing for the season

As we have mentioned in a related article, there are places in Mexico that can get cool or cold during the fall and winter months, so check the local climate where you are meeting.

Layers of clothing are often practical during the fall and winter, as mornings and evening tends to be cool or cold, especially in places situated at elevation, but daytime temperatures can get quire warm.  Cold fronts during the fall and winter months may require an overcoat as well.

Torrential afternoon rainstorms can be common during the rainy season, and it’s prudent to take an umbrella or a light raincoat if you might be outdoors or otherwise exposed to the elements.

The dry season, especially between February and May, can get very hot and dusty in some places, so dress accordingly: light clothing (elegant for formal occasions), long sleeve shirts and a hat to protect from unbroken sunshine if you’re likely to be outside for extended period, e.g. a garden party.

You can learn more about Mexico’s Seasons here on Mexperience

Gift-giving etiquette in Mexico

Gift-giving is a significant aspect of Mexican social culture. Gifts are seen as symbols of affection and appreciation, and the absence of a gift on some occasions might be construed as impolite, or a form of “cold shoulder.”

Note that if you receive a gift, it is customary to open the gift immediately to show interest and appreciation for it.

Here are some tips about gift-giving practices in Mexico.

Lunch and dinner invitations

Although gifts are not required if you are invited to a lunch or dinner meal, they are appreciated.

A gift should always be offered if you are invited to someone’s home for lunch or dinner. Fresh flowers are always appreciated.  A bottle of wine (if your host drinks alcohol), or a small gift from your home country if you are visiting from abroad are also good gifts to take to a dinner party.

Gifts for personal assistants

Secretaries and executive assistants appreciate gifts in return for their assistance; for example, when a friend’s assistant helps you arrange some travel plans.  These gifts ought to be a token of appreciation (not a statement), and if you are male and the assistant is female, you ought to indicate that the gift is from you and your spouse/partner if you have one.

Gifts at birthdays

Birthday gift-giving is popular and frequently practiced in Mexico, especially among close friends and family members.  Sometimes the gift might be a meal out at a fashionable or fancy restaurant.

If you’re living in Mexico with a young family, you’re likely to be invited to your children’s friends’ birthday parties.  It’s appropriate to take a gift for the child being celebrated.

Gifts given at Christmastime

Christmas gift-giving is practiced in Mexico, usually on Christmas Eve, although children might also receive (additional) gifts on January 6th, Kings’ Day.

If you don’t know what to give

If you’re unsure about what to give, inquiring about what kind of gift would like to be received may be considered discourteous, so avoid asking the person you intend to give something to what they would like.

If you know someone well who is close to the person you want to give to, you might ask them privately for guidance.

If you are visiting (or returning to) Mexico from abroad, you might bring something that is directly associated with your home country as a gift.

Mexico’s geography

Mexico is on the North American continent and ought not be referred to in conversations as being part of “South America” or “Central America.”  Mexico can correctly be referred to as being part of Latin America.

Learn the language and speak in Spanish

If you intend to live in Mexico, full-time or part-time, You ought make a genuine attempt to speak some Spanish.  Making an effort to speak Spanish, even at a basic conversational level, will be greeted with warmth and considered a gesture of respect and goodwill.

The Mexican flag

The Mexican flag is an important emotional and political national symbol and should never (under any circumstances) be exhibited, used, or referred to in mock, mimicry, or defamatory terms.

Walking past or between people, and leaving

When walking past someone who has yielded to you, or past people who are in conversation with each other (e.g., to excuse your passing between them); and when exiting an elevator, or leaving an office or a room when others will remain present, it is customary to say “con permiso” (or more simply, “permiso“). When someone else says (con) permiso, in these situations, it is customary to reply with the phrase “propio.”

Etiquette when visiting Mexico’s churches

Whether you are visiting a church as part of a leisure tour, attending mass, or some other formal event there, for example a wedding or funeral, you ought to observe certain rules of etiquette when entering the church.

• Be respectful in your attire: shorts, beachwear, cut-off tops, and other very casual clothing should not be worn inside the church.
• Remove hats (including baseball caps), scarves and gloves.
• Churches are a place of worship: be mindful of any religious services taking place and don’t interrupt the services.
• Do not use flash photography.  In some smaller communities, for example, rural Chiapas,  photograph in and even around the church is strictly forbidden.
  See also: Photography etiquette.
• It’s respectful to leave a donation (the donation box is typically near the main entrance/exit) to help with church expenses, whether you are touring or visiting for a specific event.  If you attend mass, the alms basket may be passed around and it’s appropriate to contribute.  Take cash with you.

Beware of hands on hips, and in pockets

Putting your hands on your hips is a sign of aggression in Mexico; and placing your hands inside your pockets when in conversation with someone, as in many countries, is regarded as bad manners.

Further research and resources

Mexperience offers you a comprehensive online resource of information and local knowledge to help you discover Mexico, explore choices, find opportunities and plan a new life in Mexico.

• Making friends and cultivating social networks
• Adapting and settling-in to your lifestyle in Mexico
• Finding balance and purpose in your Mexico lifestyle
• Articles about lifestyle planning in Mexico
• Articles about Mexican culture
• Articles about local customs
• Essential skills for expats series

Apart from a veritable army of windshield cleaners and vendors of newspapers, loose cigarettes, phone cards, confectionery, toys, maps, balloons, and so on, also competing for space at the capital’s junctions are jugglers, spinning top whizzes, fire-eaters, acrobats, and clowns.

Many drivers have little time for windshield cleaners, and frantically wave them away as they approach the car armed with a plastic bottle filled with soapy water, a small cloth, and a rubber scraper. Some quickly wind-up the windows and turn on the car’s windshield wipers, and become particularly irate if the cleaner has disguised his intentions and hit the windshield with a jet of water from the bottle while appearing to look in the other direction, shrugging as if to say, “well I’ve started now so I may as well finish.”

Contributions to the cause are voluntary, and as people easily become bored, and necessity is the mother of invention, a fair deal of ingenuity is required for success in some of these thankless occupations.

A fine example came recently on Reforma avenue: a mime with painted face, flower-pot hat, and white gloves went through the motions of cleaning a windshield. First the invisible jet of water, then the circular motion of scrubbing the glass clean, then the scraping off the water, first vertically then horizontally. The gimmick seemed to work, as the driver handed over a coin, so did the driver behind who watched it. After all, what better if people don’t want their windshields cleaned than not to clean them.

Out of the blue, signs will point you in the direction of Mexico City’s main wholesale market – the Central de Abastos – or tell you you’re headed towards the airport. True enough, but you could be 20 or more kilometers, and several turns, away from reaching your destination—and there will be no follow-up signs to help you after that.

In the capital, it’s easy enough to find signs telling you you’re going the right way to get to Xochimilco, but suddenly you are left to figure out for yourself that the signs pointing to Embarcaderos are what you now need to follow to reach the place where you can rent one of the flower-arched canal boats called trajineras.

With such a disarray of road signs, another option is to stop and ask for directions. This carries its own set of complications. First you need to find people who “look like they might know.” This subjective decision, often devoid of any real intuition, needs to be accompanied by the possibility of pulling over without prompting a barrage of abuse from the horns of cars behind you that will be kept waiting while you listen to the explanation.

Then there is the risk that your navigator of choice doesn’t really know, but would rather tell you “todo derecho” – keep going straight – than admit that they’re not quite sure, or appear to be unhelpful.  You may get an inkling of this when someone points to a fork in the road ahead and announces “todo derecho.” If you’re the insistent sort, you might ask if they can be a little more specific, to which “derechito” might be the response. Here the diminutive doesn’t mean any less straight ahead, but stresses the simplicity of the original instruction.

Obviously not all requests for directions are frustrated in this way, and the best people to ask, in the absence of technology, are probably taxi drivers.

Of course, modern technology has transformed the ‘direction-asking-and-finding’ experience. A few years ago, you might have had the foresight to look up your destination on Google Maps, print out both a distant shot and a close up for when you get near to your destination, and navigate to your intended place of arrival that way.

Today, modern smartphones have GPS and cellphone-tower triangulation built-in: the new person to ask is the Google Map App who, through means of your phone’s wizardry, will tell you where you are: type-in (or tell it) where you want to go from here and it will point the way, or moreover speak directions to you in real-time if you want it to.

Other helpful articles

For additional insights about driving in Mexico, connect to these additional articles and resources here in Mexperience

• Guide to Mexican Street Speak
• Military checkpoints in Mexico
• Dealing with car accidents in Mexico
• Toll road or freeway?

Book corner in Mexico City

In the south of Mexico City, where Miguel Angel de Quevedo avenue crosses Avenida Universidad —about five minutes from the Bohemian hangout of Coyoacán— is a mini paradise for bookworms.

Three major bookstores, Gandhi, El Sotano, and Fondo de Cultura Economica, and a dozen or so smaller ones, line both sides of the street. Outside are wooden trays with books and CDs at throw-away prices, and inside you’ll find special offers on those less likely to be thrown away.

Mexico City remains the place where the widest selection of books and bookshops can be found, and some well-known chains have most of their branches in the capital.

Bookshops are still popular in Mexico

But while in many developed countries bookshops have been closing, Mexican chains have been opening new stores.  Like bookshops everywhere, they have also added DVDs, toys, puzzles and other paraphernalia to their offerings to make the business work.  This may annoy some purists, but somehow it’s hard to get worked up about a model that means the book business can continue going.

• Cafebrería El Péndulo – coffee shop-bookstore – now boasts seven branches in Mexico City, including in trendy neighborhoods such as Polanco, Condesa, Roma and San Angel.
• Librerías Gandhi has expanded with a number of new stores in Mexico City, and also has branches in a few other cities.
• El Sótano and Casa del Libro have more than a dozen branches.
• Gonvill Librerías is the biggest chain in Guadalajara, Mexico’s second most populated city which is also host to a major international book fair each year.

These chains tend to stock the best selection of books, often beyond the capacity of the shelves so that many are neatly piled up on the floor.  You can find most books in Spanish at these stores.

And while many, especially Gandhi and El Péndulo, have one or two shelves of books in English and French, here it tends to be hit and miss.  You might find occasional books of interest, but you are less likely to find a specific title. (For some you can check availability online.)

Alternative options to the chain bookstores

When you are looking for a particular book —such as a new release— the options are to stock-up on a trip abroad, or order it from a book seller online, most of which will ship books to Mexico with no problems—but not necessarily that quickly.  If you want a particular book right now, eBooks are the way to go.

Department stores and big box stores have book sections, but these vary widely in selection and quality. There are several hundred Sanborns stores which have ample book and magazine sections, but not much in English beyond bestsellers.

Often even the most bourgeois of us like to dig around for books in a bohemian atmosphere, and for that there are plenty of elegant bookshops—although that isn’t where most Mexicans go to buy reading material.  This collection of independent bookshops lists a selection of niche bookstores in the capital, curated by a local expat blogger.

Strays in Mexico

Stray dogs in Mexico are generally not treated very well, and the most common reaction of street dogs is to dodge when humans come close, probably a conditioned response to having been frequently kicked or stoned or hissed at to scat.

One overblown fear is that you could catch rabies. Years of government vaccination campaigns —since 1990— has reduced this probability to practically zero. In 2005, officials noted 125 cases of rabies among dogs and cats in nine states, compared with more than 3,000 cases in 1990 in 29 states. The latest data from Mexico’s health ministry demonstrate that in 2017 there were just three cases in three states—and not every case affected humans.

According to estimates from health officials, there are around 100,000 reported cases a year of dogs attacking humans, of which nearly half were vaccinated dogs, suggesting that dogs with owners are just as likely (or unlikely) to bite you as strays. This is in a population of 130 million people, and an estimated 18 million to 20 million dogs.

Concerns about stray dogs that have been mentioned by different local governments carrying out round-up campaigns include health problems caused by feces, and in one case in northern Durango state, dogs were said to be a threat to drivers as they crossed the highway.

Precise data are hard to come by

While there appear to be fewer street dogs every time you look, the number of dogs with owners seems to be increasing, along with other security measures in residential areas. (Keeping a dog is a deterrent to burglars.) Statistics in this case don’t go very far—the maze of data on the country’s National Statistics Institute web site turns-up little meaningful data about man’s best friend.

They don’t say, for example, how many dogs get taken for walks every day and how many are left to rot on rooftops, barking in desperation at anyone who walks below, and raising their level of excitement if the pedestrian is accompanied by a dog.

Trends observed by watching dog walkers

A walk in the park —or in one of Mexico City’s trendy neighborhoods where younger generations can be seen walking their dogs instead of pushing baby buggies— of a morning or an evening turns up a fair amount of anecdotal evidence about the habits of people and their dogs. The ‘poop scoop,’ for example, is becoming increasingly common, although it’s still sensible to keep an eye on the ground before you.

In middle-class suburbia, there is a good deal of oneupmanship when it comes to owning a dog. It’s not very practical to staple a pedigree certificate to the animal, and so the more obvious implicit superlatives are biggest, rarest, most expensive—things that people just know and dogs just don’t care about.

With many city dwellers living in apartments, sub-compact dogs appear to be more plentiful than the larger breeds. Schnauzers and Pugs enjoyed a period of popularity in recent years, although their fame has become overshadowed by the Bulldog. But most likely, as more and more people get Bulldogs, and their novelty wears-off, a need will arise for a new “in” dog.

Learn more about caring for pets in Mexico

Mexperience publishes guides and articles about bringing pets to Mexico and caring for them here:

• Latest articles about pets in Mexico
• Dog walkers in Mexico
• Bringing your pets to Mexico

It’s been over a decade since Mexico passed a new law to crack down on the use of tobacco, securing smoke-free public spaces and buildings everywhere, and generating widespread awareness among smokers of the rights of non-smokers to be free from the toxic clouds exhaled by the users of the stuff when shopping, eating out, or waiting for a bus.

What it hasn’t achieved is to cut down on the number of smokers in the country, according to some reports.  Whether that’s because not enough has been done to discourage smoking, or because people who smoke don’t really care to quit, is anybody’s guess.

One thing for certain is that the props to help those who do want to give up nicotine patches, nicotine gum, lozenges, etc.— disappeared from drugstores across the country while ago.

Imports of electronic cigarettes (vaping devices) have been outlawed by presidential decree, citing World Health Organization data concerning the practice.  Vaping itself is not illegal in Mexico and visitors will probably not have equipment and supplies confiscated, provided they are brought in small quantities commensurate with the definition of “personal use.”

The ban on the —highly profitable, by the way— sale of loose cigarettes has been widely ignored.  These are still openly available on thousands of street stalls, at markets, outside Metro stations, at traffic lights.  In some districts where health inspectors have shown up to admonish vendors in breach of the ban, the sale stopped for a while and then resumed surreptitiously among trusted customers. But if the prohibition was aimed at keeping cigarettes out of the hands of minors, it could be said to have worked.  At least you’d be hard pressed to find vendors selling tobacco to the under-aged, and this is true of local shops as well.

Anyway, if you habitually consume nicotine products other than cigarettes, you will do well to bring a supply to tide you over during your visit to Mexico; or if you live here, stock-up on your next shopping trip abroad.

You can take many walks by yourself and never actually speak to anybody you don’t know, much as you might do if you travel on the Metro or in buses. If you are in the habit —as many Mexico City residents are— of driving everywhere, your only communication with your fellow denizens may be a shaking of the head, blowing of the horn, or an untoward hand signal that goes unnoticed by its intended recipient

Striking up a conversation becomes more or less necessary, however, when you come face-to-face with someone who, like you, is on the defensive end of a leash being stretched to its limit by a pet whose intentions could be anything from simple acquaintance to a battle to the death.

This is as good a time as any to establish your “dog-expert” credentials.

You could start out with, ¿qué raza es?, which would be OK as long as the other’s dog isn’t a German Shepherd, a Labrador, or some other well-known breed.

Many dog breeds are the same in Spanish as in English or their original language. Examples are Rottweiler, Doberman, Schnauzer, Bulldog, Boxer. Others are literal translations, for example, pastor alemán (German Shepherd), pastor inglés (English Sheepdog), gran danés (Great Dane).

For some breeds, the habit of using an English adjective and turning it into a Spanish noun is applied. So a French Poodle becomes “un french,” a Golden Retriever “un golden,“ and a Cocker Spaniel, “un cocker.”

A mongrel in Mexico is described as corriente, or callejero (street dog), criollo, or euphemistically, cruzado con corriente (cross with mongrel).

Another possible opener, ¿es macho o hembra? would show you know that, ordinarily, there ought to be no problem if they are opposites, although it could do severe damage to your pose as someone who knows all about dogs.

¿Muerde? is probably the most sensible, yet impractical question. Besides, the growling and barking may only be directed at the other dog, and could also be mere frustration at being held back by a chain.

Anyway, once the preliminaries have been dispensed with, and a decision made whether to allow the dogs to associate freely, come what may, the owners can then get introduced and share impressions on the one thing they apparently have in common—a love of dogs.

Where you would expect to hear things like, what do you feed it? does he sleep indoors or outdoors? has she been spayed? what you actually get are things like, she’s normally quite sociable, he only fights if he’s afraid, he thinks he’s bigger than he actually is.

The habit of attributing psychological or sociological characteristics to an irrational quadruped appears to say more about the owner than the dog, but in any case it serves to get people talking to each other who might otherwise not so much as exchange a “good day.”

Sometimes you’ll come away from these meetings shaking your head and saying to yourself, “I can’t believe I said that!” And the dog, now more settled after a romp in the grass or a bit of a scrap, would probably agree if it could.

Tipping in a variety of situations

The practice of tipping goes far beyond the restaurant table here. As our guide to tipping etiquette explains, there are many situations in Mexico where a small tip is appropriate, and keeping change on-hand, in the form of small denomination coins, is essential for this purpose when you are visiting or living in the country.

Key situations where a tip may be appropriate

There are three situations which are worth a particular mention as they are often overlooked by visitors and residents new to Mexican culture:

Chamber maids

The first relates to the unsung heroines (they are invariably women) of the hotel industry: chamber maids.   They will often travel a considerable distance to reach your hotel and spend the day cleaning and keeping guest rooms in good order, so that when you get back to your room, it’s waiting for you clean, fresh, and tidy.

It’s appropriate to leave a small tip and leave it each day because work schedules change, and the maid who cleaned your room initially may not be on duty the day you check-out.

The amount of the tip should vary depending upon the category of hotel: a sum in Mexican pesos, left in cash on the side table (next to the maid’s greeting card if one is present), equivalent to between US$1 (for economy hotels) and US$5 (for luxury hotels) per day is suggested and will be sincerely appreciated.

Supermarket bag packers and car park helpers

The second situation concerns students and retired folks working at supermarkets across the country to pack bags at the checkout counters. For students, the money they earn contributes to the funding of their education; for retired folks, the money they earn supplements their pension.

When you roll your shopping cart of out the store into the car park you might notice some people waiting and offering to help you.  They will take your cart to your car (or hail a local cab, if you need one) and load your shopping bags into the car’s trunk.  A small tip of $5-10 pesos is appropriate.

Bag packers and car park helpers are not salaried and work entirely on tips.

All-inclusive hotels and package tours

The third situation relates to “all inclusive” hotels and travel packages or tours.  A small few packages stipulate that ‘tips are included’ and in this case no further tipping is required.

However in most cases, guides, porters, the concierge, meal table waiting staff, and the chamber maids (see above) will appreciate a tip—even if, for example, the price of your meals (or just breakfast) is included in the room rate.

For local guides and tour leaders: a reasonable tip commensurate with the amount of time and knowledge they shared with you is appropriate.

For hotel and waiting staff: one US dollar (equivalent in Mexican pesos) per bag for porters; a 10% tip of the bill (or what the bill would likely have been if the plan was a-la-carte instead of all inclusive) left on the table after each meal or round of drinks at the bar; and a tip for the chamber maids (see above) will be very much valued.

Further insights on tipping culture

Mexperience offers more advice about local tipping etiquette:

• Latest articles about tipping in Mexico
• Read our guide to tipping in Mexico which contains a comprehensive list of situations and suggested amounts you may consider tipping in specific circumstances
• Learn more about local customs and traditions in Mexico